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A do-it-yourself wooden bed can be created in several cases: if it is not possible to install standard models, in order to save money, if you have basic knowledge of carpentry and the desire to make an original piece of furniture. It is necessary to create a drawing of the future product and strictly adhere to the action plan. It is recommended to take a responsible approach to the choice of materials and accessories.

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Advantages of wooden furniture

Single or double beds made of wood not only have high aesthetic qualities, but also fully meet the operational and environmental requirements for sleeping furniture.

A homemade bed has a number of advantages:

1. Durability, exceptional resistance to mechanical damage and a fairly long service life. A well-made stock can serve owners for up to 50 years. If necessary, repairs are carried out quite easily and quickly.
2. Do-it-yourself wooden beds, made taking into account all the ergonomic features of the human body, will ensure a comfortable and healthy sleep.
3. During operation, wood does not emit environment harmful substances. On the contrary, resins and essential oils, which are part of this material, have a positive effect on the body and have bactericidal properties.
4. Due to the pliability of wood, furniture pieces are varied design solutions, textures and surface shades.
5. A single or double bed made of wood can fit into any interior, adding some luxury and presentability to it.

Select material and decide on price

An important aspect is what wood or its derivatives the stock is made from, its cost and service life.

Most a budget option– making a bed from plywood with your own hands. This product is quite durable, environmentally friendly, and proper finishing looks ergonomic and beautiful.

Beds made of boards or furniture board, which is obtained by combining and pressing thinner raw materials. This material is in no way inferior whole array wood, easy to process and has an affordable price.

Solid wood beds are made from different materials. Hardwoods such as ash, apple, yew, elm, oak, beech, dogwood, rowan and sycamore are quite expensive. It is more expedient to use them for the production of frames and load-bearing structures intended for constant and heavy loads.

Beds made from solid pine, willow, alder, aspen, fir, cedar and cherry, which are softwood species, are the most common and occupy the middle price segment.

The main share of materials for the manufacture of furniture is represented by such wood; production uses it to create decorative and carved elements, original facades and unusual shapes.

Parts and drawings for manufacturing

Making a wooden bed yourself at home is not difficult. It is necessary to begin the manufacturing process by measuring the location and drawing a drawing and diagram.

The overall dimensions are dictated by the ratio of the required width and length sleeping place to the available space in the room. Based on them, they think about the design, the height of the headboard, the presence or absence of legs, whether it will be a simple model or a bed with drawers for storing linen.

The drawing of the bed must show the dimensions of all components and their connections, the location of parts reinforcing the frame, mechanisms for lifting or moving the base, cabinets and other functional elements.

Next to the drawing, a size table is drawn up and the volume is calculated. required material and accessories for their further purchase.

If you are confident in your calculations, you can immediately order cutting and sanding of all components of a wooden bed directly in the store or warehouse.

Required Tools

To make a wooden bed with your own hands, you will need:

1. boards at least 3 cm thick for the frame;
2. 4x4 timber to create a support for the slatted base of the mattress, to strengthen the entire structure at the corners, to make legs and a headboard frame;
3. 4x6 timber for a partition along the entire length of the frame, if you plan to make a double bed from solid wood;
4. carved decorative elements to create backrest jumpers;
5. slats (lamellas);
6. metal corners of different widths;
7. stain of the desired shade, varnish, impregnation, glue.

Self-production requires the following tools:

• hand saw or electric jigsaw;
• sanding machine and sandpaper;
• screwdriver or drill with a cue ball and a set of drills;
• screwdriver, hammer, measuring tool.

If you plan to make a wooden bed with lifting mechanism, you need to purchase the most suitable one.

To ensure the movement of built-in drawers, retractable bearing rails will be needed. When choosing accessories, you need to pay attention to the quality of all parts. It is recommended to ensure that there are no plastic components or visible defects.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Let's look at how to make a bed with your own hands from wood, using the example of a single bed with a beautiful slatted headboard and separately purchased carved legs.

Frame assembly

Making beds from wood begins with assembling the frame. In this case, the transformation of the base under the mattress and additional boxes are not provided, so the whole process is divided into the following stages:

1. Marking and sawing boards into blanks corresponding to the main width and length of the bed, followed by grinding the cut ends.
2. Preparing pieces of timber to strengthen the frame at the corners. Their length should be equal to the height of the sides of the bed. For the basis for attaching the slats under the mattress, we take a beam with a length that is equal to the side parts. Making the side parts of the headboard.
3. The bed base is folded so that the side boards are located between the front and rear backrests. They are connected with metal corners or with pieces of timber. The finished rectangle should allow the mattress to fit exactly inside.
4. Then a longitudinal beam is installed in the center of the width of the board, onto which the sheathing will later be attached. You can pre-make grooves about a centimeter deep for more durable installation in increments of 10-15 cm.

The resulting structure will act as a bed frame and the basis for securing its remaining components.

Back

Often a wooden bed begins to be created from the headboard and footboard. In this case, the second component is not provided, and the backrest will be fixed when it is completely ready.

To start with flat surface The headrest frame is made of timber, which consists of two side, upper and lower parts. All cuts must first be sanded. For lintels, ready-made carved balusters are used, the quantity of which must satisfy the owner of the product. They are placed between the bars maintaining the same distance.

First, holes are drilled that will go through the bottom beam and continue into the lintels and side pieces. Then they are firmly twisted using self-tapping screws of a slightly larger diameter and the appropriate length. The same manipulations are carried out with top part and completely twist the headboard.

Lamels

Beech slats are used to create the base for the mattress. They are highly durable and can effectively absorb the weight of a mattress and a person.

It's easy to install bed slats with your own hands. The main condition is to ensure a slight upward deflection, thanks to which all the functions assigned to them will be performed.

Fastening occurs using a hammer and ordinary nails to the side support bars, which are located on both sides of the frame inside.

First, all the components of the base are installed in their places. If there are grooves for them, this process is greatly simplified. After installation, the fullness of the berth is assessed. If necessary, reduce the step and only then securely nail the parts with 2-3 fasteners on each side.

Choosing a durable and comfortable wooden bed in a store can sometimes be difficult. Often in such products, half of the parts are made of fragile chipboard or an incomprehensible Chinese alloy, so the quality of such furnishings does not always correspond to their cost. If you have a simple carpentry machine, drill, jigsaw and a couple of modern power tools in your garage, then it makes sense to try to make a beautiful one with your own hands. If successful, you will receive a reliable product that can serve your entire family well for decades.

Making a bed with your own hands from wood

1. Reliable for DIY assembly makeshift bed from wood, we will first need planed high-quality boards 25-30 mm thick (up to 2 m long), timber 50x50 mm or 45x45 mm, self-tapping screws 5-6 mm, good glue for carpentry work. The dimensions of the workpieces depend on the size of the bed. Usually standard beds for one person they are made up to 2 m long and about 0.9 m wide. Naturally, a lot is decided by the person’s physique or the dimensions of the existing mattress.

2. Our drawer consists of several parts - timber, boards and a whole series of rectangular blanks.

3. Lubricate the surface of the board with glue.

4. We apply a beam to it and tighten the parts with clamps.

5. While the glue dries, you can proceed to making the back of the bed.

6. Let's dissolve on circular saw boards into blanks of the required size.

7. Cut short bars.

8. Next we need to assemble the parts of the bed post into one whole structure.

9. Again we use wood glue and clamps to ensure a secure connection.

10. Let's move on to the head of the bed. The lower wide ones may have simple form, and additional work needs to be done with the top board.

11. Even the most simple bed made of wood, made with your own hands, should look as beautiful as possible. It is best to decorate the headboard with figured carvings. We apply markings to facilitate this artistic work.

12. First, we make the cutout we have planned with a jigsaw or on a machine, and then we process the surface with a plane, milling cutter and sandpaper.

13. All back parts are ready.

14. We will carry out the assembly using dowels.

15. According to the markings, you need to drill holes for the dowels.

16. It is best to carry out such operations on a homemade or factory machine, hand tools Such actions are much more difficult to perform.

17. We attach the boards to the racks and make markings in place, this way there is less chance of making mistakes. In our business, how to make a high-quality and reliable bed from wood with your own hands, mistakes and miscalculations should not be made.

18. We insert the dowels into the holes, having previously lubricated the grooves of the workpiece at the points of contact with glue, and hammer them in with a mallet.

19. Assembling the headboard.

20. You can start assembling a solid wood bed frame with your own hands.

21. We assemble the bottom from the slats, and then attach short rectangular bars between them with glue and screws.

22. You can temporarily remove the slats and additionally secure the workpieces together with self-tapping screws in critical places.

23. Next, we paint the frame and headboards of our bed, made with our own hands from wood, according to the chosen design.

24. We transfer all the parts to the bedroom and assemble the finished product.

25. We put a soft bed on top, now you can relax on a new high-quality and stylish bed.

We hope that our guide will help you learn how to quickly and easily make a bed out of wood for your bedroom with your own hands. This way you can save a little money and make furniture according to your own drawings, ensuring maximum comfortable rest for yourself or family members.

A broken bed is not a reason to run to the store, especially if you have beams and screws at home. With the help of simple materials, anyone can make a double bed with their own hands, and personal preferences and wishes will serve as a guide.

The original bed will match exactly required sizes, height and weight of the owner, and will also fit perfectly into overall design interior

The base is wood

The bed frame can be made of iron or wood. And if the first option requires special skills in working with iron and hard-to-find materials in the form profile pipes, then everyone can find bars economic person along with the ability to operate a screwdriver and tighten screws.

The assembly of such furniture will take no more than 10 days, and only safe and quality materials: self-tapping screws, sheet plywood, MDF panel, metal corners, PVA glue, beams and dowels.

Some recommendations will help you competently and quickly assemble a strong and stable bed:

• It is better to give preference to a smooth beam on laminated pine about 200 cm long;
• It is recommended to compare the dimensions of the future frame with a pre-purchased mattress;
• To complement the design of the drawers, you should purchase chipboard sheets;
• Self-tapping screws and other fasteners are purchased with a reserve;
• On the bases of the folds metal corners there should be no roughness indicating low quality.

Let's start assembling

Once everything you need is ready, you can start assembling the bed. The manufacturing diagram below will serve as the algorithm. constituent elements DIY beds.

Frame and stiffeners

The first step is to make a rectangular frame, each side of which consists of three beams fastened in height. Next, the following manipulations are necessary:

• A beam measuring 4x5 cm is sawn into 4 parts: two 16 cm and two 21 cm, which are laid out on the floor along with the frame and secured with PVA furniture glue.
• The second layer is laid out parallel to the beams, firmly fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides. Periodically it is necessary to check the evenness of the structure with a tape measure or rope. Excess glue that appears should be immediately wiped off with a cloth, not allowing it to dry.
• For the base of the bed, slats with a thickness of at least 3 cm are taken. To enhance the load-carrying capacity, a “stiffening rib” is made in the center, running along the bed and having two supports.

Legs and supports

Four supports are needed in each corner. Each leg is made from two pieces of 4x5 cm timber, gluing their seams with PVA, connecting them together with self-tapping screws and attaching them to the main frame. After which the product is turned over and installed on its legs.

Mattress base

Support bars are provided in the bed drawing and depending on suitable option come in various thicknesses, heights and locations. Most often they are equal to the internal length of the frame and are attached at the level of the second row.

To create an optimal orthopedic base, the slats are fixed at a distance of about 20 mm, fixing them at the edges and in the center with two self-tapping screws in each place. Afterwards, the future bed is left to allow the glue to dry.

Sanding and painting

The final treatment consists of sanding the entire surface and thoroughly washing the product. Before painting, a protective wood primer is applied to the perimeter of the structure, and the bed is painted with high-quality wear-resistant varnish in 3-4 layers.

Modernizing standards

One bed is good, but a children’s bed and a bunk bed are even better, especially since making it with your own hands is as easy as a standard model.

When choosing a suitable scheme, you can experiment with the dimensions and design: make two beds, place them on the ground floor desk, sofa or cabinets.

Experienced and motivated craftsmen will also be interested in another modern and functional model– bed-podium. In this case, you will have to accurately measure all the dimensions of the room and prepare lumber in strict accordance with the required area.

Retractable drawers at the bottom of the bed and side panels hidden by panels are required.

If your soul and body require a new bed, then don’t rush to the store. Making this piece of furniture with your own hands is simple and quick, and the final result will directly depend on individual wishes, taste and space.

DIY bed photo

Note!

Any bed, even a custom-made one, starts with a mattress. (Hereinafter, in necessary cases, it will be clarified - a spring mattress/block or a simple mattress, mattress.) If you are not going to order the production (not cheap) of all bedding, then you will have to deal with standard sizes of mattresses. And having chosen the size of the mattress, the bed designer must decide on its thickness and the height at which it will be located.

SINGLE MATTRESS. This is the smallest mattress for one adult on the market, as its name suggests.

ONE AND A HALF SLEEP. This is the smallest size that can sleep two, although without much comfort. It is not only wider, but also slightly longer than a single mattress. Some furniture designers in the US believe it has better proportions.

DOUBLE. A double mattress is longer and wider than a one-and-a-half-size mattress. Provides good night sleep for large, tall people.

ROYAL. More than 40 cm wider than a double mattress (though not longer) and almost twice as wide as a single mattress. Having decided on the area, you need to figure out the thickness/height of the mattress. Typically, spring mattresses have a thickness of 36–41 cm. Thinner mattresses are special springless ones, and the thinnest ones are cotton ones. The thickness of the mattress affects the width of the drawers and the height of the head of the bed. The height of the mattress above the floor is designed depending on the style of the bed - a four-poster bed will look strange if the mattress is too close to the floor - and the comfort of the owner.

BED HEIGHT 46 cm. This is about the height of a chair, which is quite convenient for tying shoelaces. May appeal to children and people with disabilities.

HEIGHT 60–69 cm. The most common height in the United States, well known to most residents of this country.

HEIGHT 91 cm. Colonial style beds place the mattress at an inordinate height. This is suitable for formal rooms with tall furniture and high ceilings, but may not suit everyone.

This is the basic version of the bed. The essence of the design: four thick support legs, connected by crossbars, which hold the mattress in one way or another. The design dictates the thickness, height and profile of the supports, the dimensions of the drawers, and the presence or absence of headboards included in the design. The presented example is based on a “rope” bed from the early 18th century. The load on the drawers of such a bed is different from the load on the drawers of today's spring mattresses, so they were very thick, as in our sample. To install the spring mattress, metal L-shaped brackets are used, screwed to the side drawers. Where the drawers are thinner but higher, support bars can be used to lay the spring mattress. The height of the panel (back) of the headboard varies, in our case it is not very high and will not help much if you want to read while sitting in bed. Beds also differ in the presence or absence of a footboard panel. Ours has it, and although it is lower than the headboard, it follows its contour. Headboards prevent bedding from sliding off the ends of the bed and can help you feel a certain sense of isolation from your surroundings. But they do not allow you to sit on the bed from the ends

Design options

The height of the supports and the position of the drawers affect the shape of the supports. In the case of our sample, they are quite low, and the drawers are relatively high above the floor, so the supports have many turned surfaces both above and below the drawers. In the colonial style version, the supports are relatively high and the drawers are low. Therefore, the turned profile is concentrated mainly in the part of the legs above the drawers. (“Low supports” is, of course, a relative term. These supports are low compared to the supports on beds with “high supports.” modern beds the supports are simple, purely functional and do not extend much beyond the frames - both up and down.

The basic parameters of beds have changed a lot over the last 200 years, but the high canopy bed still has its place in bedrooms (unless they're small). It will suit both antique and modern style interior To get a sense of the beauty of this design, consider that the purpose of the tall - about 2 meters or more - posts with a frame on top of them was to support a tent-type canopy made of heavy fabric in winter to retain heat, or light fabric in summer, to allow air to pass through, but also to deter flies and mosquitoes. The appearance of the racks was generally not important, since they were covered with fabric. Also think about the fact that the ropes on which the mattress lay were at the same time an element of strengthening the frame of the bed. Today the four-poster bed is assembled using bolted joints. Remove the bolts and the entire bed can be disassembled down to the individual supports, drawers and headboard. The rope mesh that kept the mattress away from the cold floor has been replaced by a spring mattress laid on thin slats. The crossbars are usually lowered so that the height of the mattress does not exceed 60–90 cm from the floor. Best of all, durable and elegant beds are no longer hidden behind a canopy.

Design options

Beds with high supports suited the preferences of the time. A four-poster bed from late 18th-century Philadelphia has cabriole legs with a ball-and-claw finish. The lack of special decorations on the posts and back is explained more likely not by a lack of taste, but by the understanding that they will still be covered with a canopy and bedding. The beds of the less wealthy were smaller and covered with expensive fabric and, therefore, received more decorations on wooden parts, including various decorative elements, profiles and carvings.

Canopy bed – rural option four-poster beds. It has all the features of a bed with high supports: a mattress raised high above the cold, drafty floor, high supports with sheathing for drapery. But the supports were simplified so that they could be made quickly, without turning on a lathe with an extended base. Our sample is a modern reproduction, adapted to modern standards and styles. To accommodate a spring mattress, the width of the drawers has been reduced and the height has been increased. They are also lowered slightly so that the top of the mattress is not too high from the floor. The back of the headboard is raised so that you can rest pillows on it for reading while sitting (or watching TV). The bed structure is also modified. The bed is completely collapsible, although the original used ropes to lay out the mattress and hold the bed frame together. In this option, ties are used to fasten the drawers and supports. (You can imagine transporting the assembled front section down a hallway or staircase in a house.)

Design options

On modern look, the beauty of these beds is in the shape of the supports and headboard. When the original was made, heavy fabric blocked the supports, the frame with the frame, and the drawers. Pillows hid the headboard panel in a pile. Only those in the bed could see all the beauty. But in this reproduction, all the attention is given to the bed itself. To change the appearance, you can change the contours of the headboard and the profile of the supports. Only a few possibilities shown.

A balustrade is a series of balusters, that is, posts that support a crossbar, such as a railing. In relation to the bed, this means that its backs are made in the form of a balustrade. The short supports, drawers and balusters that characterize the balustrade bed completely determine the style and decor. Style and decor have always been important in furniture. When central heating, electric fans and air conditioners, blinds and mosquito nets have made heavy four-poster beds unnecessary for privacy, warmth and insect control, furniture design was able to find new directions, and the bed with balustrade backs was one of the results of this. The balustrade back does not protect against drafts - it holds the pillows. The style is quite attractive and goes well with modern interiors. As our example demonstrates, simple straight balusters can do as much for a design as lush decoration and wavy, no matter how graceful, curves.

Design options

Visible wooden parts beds with balustrade headboards - all either horizontal or vertical lines - without wide surfaces. From a design perspective, these lines are potential visual elements. For example, the minimal change of extending a horizontal bar beyond the support, rather than the other way around, gives the second bed from the top a distinctly different look from the third example. Similarly, the curve of the outer edges of the supports in the first example, although slight, gives the bed a modern touch that matches perfectly with the “suspended” top rail of the backrest. Grouping balusters also gives a pretty strong effect.

The name fully reflects appearance this bed. When she appeared in early XIX centuries, horse-drawn sleighs were the best transport in snowy weather. Their curved front, wraparound seat gave them a sweeping and modern appearance while providing practical protection and comfort. The example shown here has a sleigh-front-like foot section and a serpentine-shaped head section that quite closely resembles the contours of a sleigh seat (and is designed to serve as a backrest when reading in a sitting position in bed). Although this form is almost 200 years old, this bed is made using some modern materials late 20th century, such as flexible plywood. At the beginning of the 20th century, a craftsman would first make a curved panel using barrel technology, and then line it with veneer. Today, a woodworker can make a template and glue several layers of bendable plywood onto it, perhaps using vacuum equipment to provide the necessary clamping force.

Design options

The first sleigh beds were solid frame designs, like sleighs, with a "chassis" on the bedding legs. The front and rear assemblies were mounted on this chassis, much like the one-piece bed on the right. This example doesn't have the impressive appearance of the best members of this subspecies, but is just as difficult to disassemble for moving. (Our example is designed to look solid, but still has some mobility in the drawer structure.) Eventually, furniture makers came up with ways to use this shape without the labor that curved backs required. A common simplification was to install flat panels between curved studs. Modern version– use of cut-to-shape planks instead of curved solid wood panels

A couch is a piece of furniture that, in the second half of the 20th century, began to be used in reverse of its original use. Historically, any piece of furniture where you can rest or take a nap during the day, including a chair or couch, served as a bed. In other words, the couch served as a bed. Today, however, the bed can be used as a daybed. The example shown here is typical of this form. In terms of design, this is a real bed. The headboard and footboard units are connected by longitudinal drawers. The slats between them hold a standard single mattress with springs. Standard fittings allow the structure to be quickly and easily disassembled. To turn this regular bed A longitudinal backrest has been added to the couch. It is placed on the corresponding longitudinal frame and screwed to it and the supports. Lined with pillows on the sides and back, this bed can serve as a comfortable daybed. At night, with the extra pillows removed, she goes back to bed.

Design options

The very first couch beds, back in the Middle Ages, were simply a platform with a sloping back at one end. By the beginning of the 18th century, it had developed into an eight-legged chair with an incredibly elongated seat. A representative example is in the style of Queen Anne. Usually they had soft upholstery or soft bedding. Today this option may be called a chaise lounge. During the Federal era, the daybed became more like a daybed, but with a distinct difference between the headboard and footboard. As Duncan Phyfe's piece demonstrates, these were upholstered pieces of furniture. Around the same time, the French were making "alcove beds" that served the same purpose. The headboard and footboard were the same height, and the bed was placed against the wall. In this form it was preserved as a couch bed.

To make use of every square centimeter of precious space on board the ship, the captain's bed has built-in drawers. For most landlubbers, drawers under the mattress mean a captain's bed. But that's not all there is to it. The real captain's bed was small (not "king" size) to fit right up against the bulkhead in a small cabin. Another nautical element is the side along the front side, so that the cap is not thrown out of the bed during a storm. The sample shown here satisfies all requirements. It has a high backrest, reminiscent of a daybed bed, and high headboards and footboards that create its own alcove. Under the mattress there are two huge drawers on durable, easy-to-operate ball-bearing guides. The front drawer may not prevent an unexpected wave from rolling the sleeping captain out of bed, but its wavy contour is “very nautical.”

Design options

Captain's bed designs range from spartan to dapper. The Spartan model shown here is low, functional and relatively easy to make. Its end backs can be paneled or even simply made of plywood with edging along the edges. The bed, similar to a chest of drawers, is made of panels - solid wood or plywood. The protrusions in the corners form virtual “supports” for the bed assembly. Of course, there are also drawers under the mattress, a pair on each side. If a high bed is acceptable, as it might be in a small children's bedroom, then two or more tiers of drawers can be built into it, as in the picture. A ladder-stand will make the bed accessible even for little ones, and a small fence will help prevent them from falling to the floor while sleeping.

A bunk bed brings back memories of a summer camp or a soldier's barracks. In order to accommodate more Boy Scouts (or skinhead recruits) in a given space, beds were stacked two at a time, one on top of the other, doubling the number of sleeping places without increasing the area of ​​the room (or tent). IN small house a bunk bed can also be a boon. How else can you fit two kids in a small bedroom? But the iron two-story bunks on which we slept in the barracks are too vulgar for home use. The bunk bed shown here has both a pleasing appearance and a flexible design. The beds can be placed side by side or one on top of the other. Many bunk beds are designed to fit a custom mattress, but the example shown is designed to fit a standard "single" box spring mattress.

Design options

There is not the only way do bunk bed. Shown below are two alternative options. In both, only a regular mattress is placed on the plywood panel. In the first example, the bed is not disassembled to make two beds placed side by side. The design is primitive - the drawers are placed on the sides of the supports and screwed - but durable. The other model has identical sleeping places and, after dismantling, can be used as two beds placed side by side. For reassembly, one of the beds is turned upside down.

A bed with a base is a bed with a base, that is, with a platform slightly raised by the base on which the mattress is placed. In its original form, it is a small step from a mattress on the floor. The platform rests on a base (support frame) of slightly smaller area, so that a base space is formed, so when making the bed, you don’t have to hit your toes on the platform itself. This is a big advantage over a low iron bed, since there are no legs in the corners that you can catch your toes on. A well-designed platform mattress can make the platform mattress appear to be suspended above the floor. If the mattress rises 45 cm or so - in other words, about the height of the chair - then it is comfortable to wear socks or shoes on. The example shown provides storage space in the form of drawers in the plinth. This can be practical in a small room where you need to make the most of every square centimeter of space. Here you usually need to find a compromise between the height of the bed and the volume of the drawers. The higher the drawers, the higher the bed will be. In addition, overhangs may limit access to drawers.

Design options

For a bed with a base, it is especially important bed dress– spring block and mattress (if they are separate). Shown below are base beds - without drawers - designed for a single mattress and for a box spring and mattress. The bed for a simple mattress is low, elegant, as a bed with a base usually appears, and the second one seems “bloated”. The difference is not only visual. Spring mattress(block) plays the role of a shock absorber for a simple mattress and prolongs its life. Without a spring block, a simple mattress can compress and wear out faster.

Today, many are concerned about environmental issues at home, including health-safe furniture made from natural materials. This is most relevant for furniture in the bedroom, and especially for the bed, on which a person spends a third of his life, rests, and recharges himself with energy for active work. Of course the beds are from natural wood You can also buy it in a store, but such furniture is very expensive, and it can be difficult to find the right model in size, shape, and color. Therefore, for many, the question arises about making a wooden bed with their own hands. This is not difficult to do, but the product will suit your requirements and will cost much less, because you only have to pay for the materials.

Let's consider making the simplest model wooden double bed.

Required materials and tools

The amount of materials needed to make a bed depends on its size. But before you draw up a drawing and decide on the length and width of the bed, you need to know exact dimensions mattress. Store-bought mattresses usually have standard sizes. If for some reason this does not suit you, you can make a mattress yourself from two layers of foam rubber with a thickness of 125 mm: bottom layer less dense (35 kg/m3), the top one is more dense (not less than 45 kg/m3). In this case, you can take the length and width of the foam that suits you. For example, 200 cm and 150 cm. A mattress cover sewn to size is placed on the finished layers. Thus, the mattress will have the following dimensions: length 200 cm, width 150 cm, height 25 cm.

For a bed of this size you will need the following materials:

• boards 250x30x2 cm for side walls - 2 pieces;
• boards 200x30x2 cm for the front, back walls and headboard - 3 pieces;
• beam 200x4x4 cm for four load-bearing, support and legs - 5 pieces;
• rail 150x4x2 cm for slatted covering and fastening of headboard boards - 25+2 pieces (can be replaced with thick plywood);
• self-tapping screws;
• wood glue;
• varnish, stain.

Bed plan - clickable

You can’t do without the appropriate tools:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• cutter;
• hacksaw;
• plane;
• sandpaper;
• measuring instruments - tape measure, metal ruler, square;
• pencil.

Having prepared the tools and purchased necessary materials, you can begin marking and sawing lumber. In this case, you should follow several rules:

• first you need to make a drawing of the bed, indicating on it the exact dimensions of all parts; then it is advisable to make a list of these parts and the amount of material for them;
• the line along which the cut will be made must be marked with a cutter or a pencil along a ruler;
• when making several parts of the same type and size, you should first cut out one part and then use it as a template;
• The cut surface must be cleaned with sandpaper.

Wooden bed manufacturing technology

Determine the location for the support bars on the front and back walls. To do this, divide the length of the walls into three equal parts and make appropriate markings. The seating depth of the mattress is 5 cm. Add to this figure the thickness of the slats (2 cm) and the supporting longitudinal beams (4 cm). You will get 11 cm, which you measure from the top of the walls at the markings.

Screw with inside two support bars. When selecting screws, take into account the thickness of the bars and boards so as not to damage the front surface of the product.

Screw the support bars to the side walls. To do this, measure 7 cm from the top of the board (thickness of the slats and seating depth of the mattress) and draw a line using a ruler. The support beams are screwed along the entire length of the side wall, departing from the edges by 6 cm. At the edges of the support beam, screw two vertical sections of timber 4 cm thick so that the distance to the edge of the board is strictly 2 cm.

Attach an additional board to the front wall for a headboard. Pre-coat the edges with glue and perfectly align the workpieces. Reinforce the headboard on the outside with three slats, which are glued and screwed with self-tapping screws. The shape of the headboard can be chosen according to your taste.

Cover all blanks with stain, achieving the desired color. After this, apply quick-drying varnish twice.
Assemble the bed frame by connecting the pieces to each other with self-tapping screws.

Place two supporting beams on the support bars of the back and front walls and screw them with self-tapping screws. For better support, two legs with a height equal to the height of the side walls can be screwed to the supporting beams in the middle.

Place on load-bearing structure slats (or plywood, depending on the option), maintaining a distance between them of 4 cm and retreating 2 cm from the front and rear walls. Screw the slats with self-tapping screws. Place the mattress on the finished bed.

As a result, you will get a classic wooden bed, very durable, environmentally friendly, and fits into the interior of your bedroom. If you have the desire and certain skills, you can decorate the structure with various decorative elements.

Plan and photo from Serjant (guns.ru forum)