Do-it-yourself multi-story rabbit cages. Homemade cages for eared animals - cheap, simple and convenient! Simple cells

Do-it-yourself multi-story rabbit cages. Homemade cages for eared animals - cheap, simple and convenient! Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

Rabbit breeding is one of the most profitable directions livestock farming Rabbits are quite unpretentious, reproduce quickly and grow well. The only thing the owner must do is provide for the animals nice home. In a properly designed cage, rabbits will reproduce faster and become less sick.

You can buy a cage for rabbits in finished form- today there are many various designs from any materials. But it’s much cheaper to make a cage yourself. In addition, this will allow you to economically distribute the space allocated for the rabbitry and choose the most suitable type design and, if necessary, modernize it. Learn more about how to make a rabbit cage at home with video and photos in this article.

What determines the choice of cell design?

The rabbit needs enough space, and the choice of design for the cage should be based on this factor. When starting to breed rabbits, it is necessary to build at least 3 types of rabbit hutches:

for males;
for pregnant females;
for breeding young animals.

The main type of cages are structures for fattening young rabbits.

There are 3 various types rabbitry:

on outdoors;
in the barn;
portable structures.

If rabbit cages are installed under open air, you need to choose a shaded place on the site that will be protected from wind and drafts. The location should be such that the rabbits are warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

If the rabbitry is installed in a barn, the roof on it can be made of mesh, because there is no need for protection from precipitation. And a house with a walk is considered ideal option(shown in photo below).

For this design, the back wall of the cage is made mobile; if necessary, the latch is opened, and the rabbits can go out for a walk. The walking area is fenced with a net and wooden blocks. This allows animals to eat pasture. When the grass in the fence is completely eaten, the rabbitry is moved to another place.

Attention! The length of the cage should be at least one meter; for rabbits of large breeds it should be increased to 1.5-2 meters. Width - not less than 60 cm, and standard height- 50 cm. In this case, the back wall should be 5-10 cm lower than the front in order for a slope to form.

How to choose material for a rabbitry

The main requirement for the material from which the rabbit cage will be made is safety. The material must be non-toxic and non-traumatic. Rabbits love to chew on everything, they should not be poisoned or injured by parts of the cage.

The most popular materials for rabbit hutches are wood and metal mesh. The mesh cell should be no less than 1.7x1.7 cm, but no more than 2x2 cm. Rabbits' paws should not fall into the cells, as this could cause the animal to be injured and break a limb.

You should not buy wood from expensive construction stores, rabbit houses do not require high-quality material. A rough-cut board or timber, which can be purchased on the market at a low price, is quite sufficient.

Important! All protruding fragments must be cleaned sandpaper so that the rabbits do not get hurt on the tree.

You also need to pay close attention to the fasteners and the edges of the mesh - there should be no sharp objects inside the rabbitry.

Common cell designs

Most often used standard design cells divided into two sections. Two rabbits live in such a “house” at the same time: these can be two males or pregnant females (photo below).

The essence of this design is that in one building and under one roof a cage of two “rooms” is built, separated from each other by a manger or a partition. A manger is a feeder for hay or grass; it is most often made of mesh in the shape of the letter V. Feeders for dry food and drinking bowls are attached to the sides of the rabbitry. Each of the two compartments has its own door made of metal mesh.

The bottom of the cage can be made from the same mesh or used for this wooden slats. Slats are more preferable, since it is more comfortable for rabbits to sit on them, and in cold weather their paws will not freeze to the floor. But rabbits can damage wood with their teeth, so a metal floor will be more durable.

In order to effectively remove manure from a rabbitry, two methods are used:

A tray made of plywood, boards or plexiglass that is installed under the cage floor. To clean the cage, the tray is simply pulled out along the guides.
Bunker made of galvanized metal or wood. It is installed below the floor level of the cage so that waste flows into a container installed under the cage (shown in the photo below).

Such a two-section cage can be covered removable roof, then it will be easier to clean inside the “house”. If the cage is installed outdoors, it is covered with roofing material (slate or tiles).

Attention! It is not recommended to use metal for roof construction, since in the summer it will heat up in the sun, which will lead to overheating of the rabbits.

If the owner dreams of breeding a large number of rabbits, it is necessary big square for the construction of cells. To save space on the site, the cages are made in two tiers. Three-story structures are no less common. The cage frame, in multi-story construction, must be strong enough to support the weight of the entire structure and animals.

Making a three-story cage requires a special pallet design. In this case, it will not be possible to use the bunker method due to lack of space, and pull-out trays are not very convenient, because the height of the cage will be significant.

For a rabbit “house” of three floors, it is more convenient to use inclined pallets. Each of them is located at a slight angle to one of the sides of the cell. All waste and manure will flow down pallets from the top tier to the bottom, eventually ending up in the waste receptacle.

Arrangement of the feed compartment and nesting

Each cage should have a place for eating and walking, and a separate area for sleeping and resting. That's why free space The compartments must be separated by a partition. A hole measuring 20x20 cm is cut out of a sheet of plywood or a board made of boards, making it at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level (a similar design is shown in the photo).

The feeding and nesting compartments must have own doors: mesh for feeding and solid for nesting. Through two doors it will be more convenient to get the rabbits out and clean the cage, because its length often exceeds 1.5 meters.

The nesting compartment should not be too large; the rabbits should feel warm and comfortable here. The parameters 30x60x50 are quite sufficient, that is, it is necessary to separate about 30 cm of the width of the cage with plywood or boards. You can make a separate roof over the nest or arrange it under a common roof.

Arrangement of queen cells

In cages containing pregnant or lactating females, queen cells must be installed. They can be mobile and installed as needed, or stationary.

The floors in the queen cell should be solid, the dimensions of this “house” made of boards or plywood are as follows - 30x30 cm, height - about 20 cm. It is not necessary to make a roof in the queen cell, but with a roof the kids will be much warmer in winter time.

Important! Among experienced rabbit breeders, there is a version that there is no need to build queen cells at all - the female herself will choose a place convenient for herself and build a nest.

Insulation of the rabbitry

In regions with cold winters, it is better to move cages with rabbits to barns. If this is not possible, the “houses” must be insulated. To do this, the walls, floor and ceiling are made double, and the void is filled with insulating material:

mineral wool;
polystyrene foam;
straw.

To prevent the insulation from getting wet, it can be placed in plastic film, the edges of which are soldered.

In the northern regions, queen cells need additional insulation, because newborn rabbits can quickly freeze and die. The bottom of the queen cell is made double, and a medical electric heating pad or a small fragment of a “warm floor” is placed in the cavity.

Attention! It is very important to hide electrical wiring from rabbits; they can easily chew through it.

Instructions for collecting the cage

You should start assembling your rabbitry by studying the project. Having familiarized yourself with the dimensions and understood the design, you can proceed to assembly:

First of all, assemble the cage frame. It is most often made from wooden blocks measuring 50x50 mm. The assembled frame is installed in the place where the rabbitry will be located.
Make a floor - attach a mesh to the bottom or wooden planks, which are stuffed in increments of 1.5 cm.
A pallet for collecting waste is made according to the design laid down in the project.
Now you need to mount the walls and partitions. For the back and side walls, solid sheets of plywood or knocked down boards are most often used. It is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not protrude into the cage.
The front wall is made of mesh. First they shoot down wooden frame from bars, and then using nails or screws, attach the mesh to it.
Performed in the front wall of the door using awnings and installing locks.
The front wall is attached to the main part of the cage.
They install mangers for hay, partitions, nests, queen cells, feeders and drinkers inside the rabbitry - all parts must be fixed and stationary so that rabbits cannot move them.
The roof is being installed.

Making a rabbit cage with your own hands is not difficult at all. This approach will help save space and position the rabbitry in the most convenient way.

Cages with two or three floors significantly save space, and they are also easier and faster to maintain. A self-made rabbitry can be easily modified, if necessary, converted into a compartment for young animals or added another floor. If rabbits feel comfortable in their new “home”, they will grow faster, reproduce better and get sick less.

In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.

Minimum dimensions

The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:

for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
young animals - 0.12 m2;
breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.

A large rabbit (giant, Flanders) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. Cage sizes for dwarf and decorative breeds of rabbits will be appropriate.

What should the design be?

Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. Back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. Facade part made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.

The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).

Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.

Cages for rabbits

Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.

Standard double option

In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:

in length - 210-240 cm;
width - 65 cm;
in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
in height from the rear wall - 35 cm.

Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.

Cages with aviaries

Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:

The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.

Group cages for young animals

There are other types of similar structures. Of course, in this case, certain cage sizes for rabbits are also selected. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:

length equal to 2-4 m;
wide - 1 m;
with a front wall height of 50 cm;
rear - 40 cm.

In this case, the back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.

Cages for California rabbits

This breed has recently become increasingly popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. Optimal sizes cages for Californian rabbits - 120 x 60 x 60 cm.

Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin

This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two types of rather convenient and practical cages for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.

The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. Biological feature rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.

The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.

Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They do not spin on hinges or some complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.

Sheds

So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is what they call buildings with gable roof, the side walls of which are formed by the rear walls of the tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.

Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.

Rabbit barn

It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. Protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts You can also arrange a comfortable shed for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.

Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development, rabbits need Fresh air and a lot of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.

Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.

What you need to know

The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, with high crowding, the risk of developing various kinds infectious diseases.

As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals are quite simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.

Construction of cages for rabbits involves certain questions: how many and what breed of rabbits will you breed, and will you engage in breeding. After this, we select the type of enclosure and begin work. We use the most affordable materials - plywood or wood, mesh and slate. Since rabbits will gnaw cells from the inside, we do not use in our work anything that can harm their health: chemical antiseptics, materials with metal shavings.

The main types of enclosures - what are common and how are they different?

Rabbits are capricious animals to keep. The enclosure can be located both indoors and outdoors. But street cages are suitable only for the southern regions, otherwise in winter period eared ones will freeze. Optimal temperature keeping rabbits - from 10 to 20 degrees. In enclosures, drafts, direct sunlight and humidity above 75% should be avoided. Considering all this, find the most optimal place and start choosing the type of enclosure.

There are several types of cages for rabbits:

simple cells, with or without queen cell; with or without an enclosure for walking;
I. N. Mikhailov cells;
cells of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Regardless of the type of enclosure, it is placed at a height of at least 70 cm from the ground in one or several tiers. This can be done using high legs or wall mounts. This way the rabbits will be protected from rodents and other animals, and the indoor air will circulate better. The size of a rabbit's home depends on the breed, gender and age.

Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

To make enclosures with their own hands, they try to take natural materials, for example, boards. Since rabbits chew everything they come across, chipboard should not be used. It is both harmful to animals and will crumble quickly. Often, the inside of a rabbit's home is protected from animal teeth by iron sheathing. But this can only be done if the temperature is stable both in winter and summer. Otherwise, the iron will become very hot from the sun or cool in winter.

Particular attention is paid to the floor of the enclosure. Rabbit urine is very caustic and therefore corrodes wood. Most often, the floor is made of mesh. Sometimes a lattice is made of wooden slats. This way all the feces will flow down. It will be much easier to clean the cages, which means the rabbits are less likely to get sick.

In the manufacture of cells for decorative rabbits do not use mesh, because due to the lack of pads on their paws, they simply cannot sit on such a floor for a long time.

Attach the queen cell to the enclosures if you plan to breed rabbits. It is in the queen cell that the female gives birth and nurses the rabbits. Only when they get stronger does she move to the main room. The quality and quantity of the offspring is influenced by the attached enclosure for walking, since the high mobility of individuals contributes to their reproduction.

Mikhailov cages - mini rabbit farm

Mikhailov’s design is more complex enclosures, suitable for large farms. They are often used in industry, helping to significantly reduce labor costs. The construction of such an enclosure is patented, has automatic cleaning and feeding, and heated queen cells. Most often this is a three-level house with a middle floor for feeding and an upper floor for walking. Building it yourself is quite difficult; for this you need a good construction experience and significant financial expenses.

Zolotukhin cells - saving space and building material

Zolotukhin cells are easier to manufacture. Their main distinguishing feature is that the floor is made at a slope. It uses not the usual mesh, but plywood or slate. The mesh is installed only near the cell wall. According to research, rabbits relieve themselves near walls in 90% of cases. Zolotukhin’s design takes up little space; the cells in it are arranged in three rows of two. This saves both space and material for work. Such enclosures are well suited for keeping large quantity rabbits, it is not advisable to use them for several individuals.

Making a regular cell

To save material and space, the cells are made at least in pairs. For the base, take a board 3 m long by 0.7 m. This way you can fit two compartments 1.5 meters long. These cage sizes are suitable for young animals or males. For females, a smaller size is sufficient. First of all, you need to prepare drawings with dimensions based on tips and illustrations.

To make this design you will need:

2 sheets of plywood (1.5 by 1.5 meters);
10 three-meter bars (30 by 50 mm);
3 m mesh with 15 mm cells;
screws and tools for work.

The size of the cells in the mesh used should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the rabbits will get stuck in them.

Before making a homemade enclosure, many farmers advise treating the wood with antibacterial impregnations. It is worth choosing the safest formulations, since otherwise you can poison the animal. First of all, a frame with a height of 1.2 in front and 1 meter in back is made from bars.

Then the floor is hemmed with mesh. There is no need to reach the edges with the mesh; the queen cells will be located there, and the floor in them will be made without holes. The back wall is made of plywood, attached to the bars with self-tapping screws. At the edges, queen cells are also made from plywood. The ceiling in them is lowered a little so that they look more like a hole. A small hole with a diameter of 16 centimeters is made in the side wall. This queen cell can be made removable if desired.

A feeder is made in the center. It is more convenient to divide it into two parts: for feed and for hay. The first is a tall box with a bowl base. And the second is a trapezoidal box made of mesh.

The roof is made of plywood with overlaps of 5-10 centimeters. You can make it in two parts, leaving a gap in the middle. It will be convenient to fill feeders. Then the doors are made using bars and mesh.

Using the same step-by-step instructions, you can make a cage with two or three floors. But in this case, the roof is covered with some kind of protective material. For example, they are upholstered with sheet iron or polycarbonate. Then your rabbit house will last longer.

Making a Zolotukhin cell

Making an enclosure using Zolotukhin’s method with your own hands is not much more difficult than building an ordinary cage. For this you will need:

wooden beams;
net;
boards;
sheet iron;
polycarbonate;
slate.

The enclosure will be built in the following dimensions: 2 m wide, 1.5 m high, 80 cm deep. The floor slope is 5 centimeters, and a 20-centimeter strip of mesh will be located at the back wall.

First we build a similar frame for the enclosure. We leave room in the middle for a hay barn. But the floor, unlike a regular cage, is lined not with mesh, but with durable slate. Don't forget to make an indent of 20 centimeters from the back wall.

The rear walls are made of polycarbonate. They need to be secured at an angle so that top part the walls connected to the slate edge of the floor of the next floor. And at the very top tier it is straight. This arrangement allows rabbit droppings to roll down the walls.

Closed queen cells are made on the sides of the structure, similar to a regular cage. We make all the other walls and doors of the enclosure from mesh.

The feeder in Zolotukhin’s model is also not easy. It is inserted directly into the door and is held on by hinge nails. Thanks to this, you can pour food and clean the feeder without opening the door. It occupies approximately 2/3 of the width of the door. Outer wall the feeder is twice as high as the inner one.

It’s not for nothing that Zolotukhin cells have long been very popular: they are easy to make and easy to maintain.

It is best to start building enclosures with the simplest option. Later, based on the experience gained, you can move on to more complex structures, including to Mikhailov’s mini-farm.

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

One of the important components of successfully keeping rabbits is providing the animals with suitable housing - cages. Cages are very convenient for breeding animals - they are the easiest place to feed, care for, house and, if necessary, treat the animals. At the same time, do not rush to buy industrial copies - you can make the cages yourself. We will look at how to build cages for rabbits with our own hands, as well as a series of photos of original building ideas.

Two-story cage for rabbits.

Features and Requirements

In fact, a cage is a box-like structure with opening front doors. Consists of a frame (sometimes with high legs) closed by walls, a roof and a floor. Inside there are compartments for food and rest, separated by a partition with a manhole. In the aft compartment there is a feeder and.

Size and design features cells depend on the age, breed, sex of the rabbit, and method of keeping. However, the design will be essentially identical for all groups of animals.

A common blueprint for rabbit cages.

When viewed from above, the cell diagram looks like this. The floor of the cage can either be completely mesh or have a mesh insert for removing feces. The floor in the nesting section must be solid, windproof and warm.

Schematic representation of a cell from above.

Another version of cages is also in demand - in which there are sleeping compartments on the sides, and in the center there is an area for feeding and activity. Such blocks are longer (up to 1.2 m), the standard height is about 35 cm.

There are several types of cellular contents:

in room;
on the street;
combined - part of the year indoors, part - outdoors.

use of high-quality, durable, rough building materials;
reliability and stability of the structure;
no more than 3 tiers of cages (installation of a slanting roof for effective drainage of feces);
presence of a canopy.

Important! In winter, it is imperative to take care of insulating the cells. The boxes must be reliably protected from frost and wind, especially if you plan to breed animals.

Types of cells

As we have already indicated, the design of a house for animals is selected based on many factors. Therefore, below we will briefly consider the main distinctive features blocks for animals with different needs:

House for rabbits and baby rabbits.

In addition to standard cages, there are also options with an aviary. If there is free space, you can install just such blocks. The enclosure is set up either under the structure or near the back wall. At least one of the walls of the enclosure should be mesh, but the option is also popular when the back wall is solid and the rest are made of mesh - as in the photo:

Two-story cage with an aviary.

If there are a large number of individuals, the shad will be a convenient design for keeping. It is a frame with 2-3 tiers of cells under a canopy. This whole structure looks like a mini-barn, but it greatly increases the efficiency and ease of care, allows for efficient use of space, and each animal can be provided with a separate block. You can also build a shed yourself.

Shed for rabbits.

Depending on the needs of the animal and your goals, the appearance of the structure can be absolutely anything. For example, for males, who are usually kept alone, you can build a very simple one-story block:

A simple one-story cage.

You can also make a frame and divide it into three compartments to house several individuals under one roof.

One-story block with three cells.

If you have enough space and the number of animals is small, you can make bunk (two-story) apartments for animals:

A two-story cage in the form of a house for one individual.

Another option for a two-tier block with a symmetrical, attractive facade:

Please note: In all such designs with an aviary below top tier there is a tray for effective removal bowel movements.

A two-story cage in the shape of a house.

If you wish, you can use the most original ideas and make a cage for rabbits with your own hands like a mansion, as in the photo below. To descend into the walking area, the block must be equipped with a staircase.

Blue cage-teremok.

And here’s another extraordinary design: in order to make good use of the space, there are beds with herbs on the roof of the block.

Cage with seedlings on the roof.

Another example of the design - on the sides of the block there is a feeder and a drinker. There is a nest in the center with holes on both sides. Thanks to the convenient door, babies can be accessed and perform care procedures without any problems.

House with compartments.

In the photo below we see a very original, practical and simple design similar to a wheelbarrow. The animal house is equipped with a pair of wheels on the back side and a pair of holders on the front. If necessary, the cage can be quickly and without assistance transported to another location. At the same time, the block is equipped with a nest and there is enough space for walking.

Transportable house on wheels.

To make the economic part of the yard look aesthetically pleasing and original, houses for livestock can be built in the oriental Pagoda style.

Pagoda style house.

If you need a spacious enclosure for walking young animals, you can make a metal structure, completely mesh with a small shelter.

Spacious enclosure for rabbits.

Before you start building a home for livestock, check out these simple recommendations. They will save you a lot of time during the creation process and allow you to avoid some mistakes:

For year-round outdoor maintenance, it is better to choose thick boards for making walls. If the rabbits are kept partially outside, the sides of the cage can be made of plywood. If rabbits are outside only in the summer, then the walls can be made from durable mesh.
When kept outdoors, the structure must be placed at a height of at least 0.7 m from the ground. This will protect the animals from cold, precipitation, as well as rats and other animals.
The floor can be constructed from wooden slats or mesh. The size of the cells should be about 1-1.5 cm so that manure can pass through the holes freely, but the animals do not injure their paws.
For the roof you can use boards or plywood. And for reliability, put any available roofing material on top. The only thing worth considering is that the metal sheets can get very hot in the sun and overheat the cage, so you will have to install a canopy on top.
On the front wall you need to install two doors on hooks, one mesh, the other wooden.
The wooden elements of the house will most likely be chewed, so it is recommended to cover the most vulnerable parts of the cage with thin sheets of tin, namely: the edges of wooden beams in the frame and doors, the manhole, and the feeding trough.
In case of bad weather, removable glazing should be provided. The frame with glass can be attached different ways, for example, on hooks, and in sunny weather, remove.

Idea: the façade and external walls can be upholstered decorative material or paint it to give the house a decorative look.

Cage with supports.

Necessary materials

So, let's consider making a three-tier structure for group keeping of rabbits.

Necessary materials:

timber with a section of 5*5 cm;
aluminum plaster corner;
screws;
metal connecting corners;
slats 24*12 mm (for the floor, you can use a metal mesh);
galvanized sheets.

All fastenings in the cage will look like this.

Required tool:

construction stapler;
grinder (hacksaw);
roulette;
screwdriver;
electric drill.

For construction we will use the following drawing. One tier is shown here; 3 of these structures will be required.

Drawing of a cage (one tier).

Manufacturing process

Below is detailed description step-by-step instruction for making a house.

First you need to prepare the material for work - cut the timber into the required sections. So, you will need 16 pieces of 1.9 m each (12 pieces need to be sheathed with corners on one side), 24 pieces of 0.35 m each, 18 pieces of 0.8 m each, 12 pieces of 0.45 m each, 6 pieces of 0. 7 m. All prepared sections must be sheathed on one side with a corner using a stapler. These parts will be in direct contact with animals, which means the wood needs to be protected from being chewed.

Preparing the bars.

To make the first tier, we assemble the frame. To do this, we connect 2 segments of 1.9 m and 0.35 m with corners. The result is a rectangle.

We fold the frame.

Next, on a long section, measure 55 cm from the edges on each side, top and bottom. We make notes. Now we insert a beam 0.35 m long into the middle of the rectangle so that the marking line is closer to the center.

Insert jumpers.

This results in the following division:

Caracas in the making.

We make a hole for the feeder. To do this, find the middle along the long line and make a mark. WITH opposite side on the block we mark 0.7 m from the right and left ends. We apply 45 cm long bars in a triangle for fitting, mark an angle and cut them with a hacksaw and attach them.

We make a hole for food.

Using the same principle, we construct the second part for the first tier. Using bars 80 cm long we connect both parts. The frame of the first tier is ready.

Finished tier frame.

For the floor, you can use wooden slats or metal mesh. If you use slats, you must first drill holes in them for screws, otherwise the thin slats may crack. Watch the distance between the slats - it should be about 1-1.2 cm so that the animals do not injure their limbs.

Fastening the slats to the floor.

The side parts of the structure, as well as the lintels, are made of plywood. Instead, you can use mesh or boards.
For the roof we use galvanized sheets. They should be slightly larger in size than the frame, so that it is possible to make small canopies over the compartments.
Using hinges on the front, you need to attach the doors made of mesh and plywood. At this point, one tier is completely finished.
At the end of the cage, the wood must be treated with fire. Firstly, it will remove burrs and make the wood smoother. Secondly, roasting will eliminate most microorganisms from the upper layers of the wood. Then the structure must be treated with a disinfectant, for example Brovadez, according to the instructions.

In principle, you can stop there if you do not need to accommodate a large number of living creatures. But if there are a lot of rabbits and not enough space, you can continue and fold the three compartments into a single three-story structure.

To do this, you will need strong beams 2 m long (4 pieces). The compartments must be secured using metal corners. The first compartment should be at least 30 cm above the ground. The distance between compartments should be kept at least 10 cm to accommodate pallets.

Ready design.

Thus, we presented a selection of photos with original design ideas, and also examined the step-by-step production of rabbit cages with our own hands.

Video: step by step construction cages for rabbits.

Raising rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, results will not be achieved. In winter, rabbits feel better in a heated room specially allocated for them, which is called a rabbitry. A small one is suitable for home breeding.

What should a rabbitry be like?

In order for rabbits to feel normal, not get sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding of living conditions and often get sick in poor conditions. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:

The optimal temperature is 14-16°C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place remote from heating devices, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is unprofitable. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. The most justified are rabbit hutches built using mineral wool insulation (thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to the insulation of the floor and ceiling. Roofing material may be without insulation, it should provide protection from moisture. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw fallen leaves onto the dried clay for additional thermal insulation.
Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it must be maintained at 60-75%.
Drafts have a negative effect on the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor frame buildings- with proper construction there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must have ventilation because they need fresh air and the gases that come from the rabbits' urine and feces must be removed. But the air speed should not be more than 0.3 m/s. Usually, an inlet opening is made, covered by a movable grille at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry, and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in the other. IN exhaust pipe you can install a gate. Using a movable grille and a damper, you can regulate the speed of air movement in the rabbitry depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades (there should be several modes).
The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in a rabbitry is the regularity of cleaning and the design of the cages. About the cells - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor.
In order for less ammonia to be released, it is necessary to organize the collection of stool so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cells, they have a slope and a trench along which the urine is drained into separate container. If waste is collected through gutters into a pit (with large numbers of rabbits), the ditches must be made so that urine leaks into a lower gutter separated by a mesh. This is enough difficult task, since one part is separated from the other using a mesh, and it often gets clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to clean it often.
Construction of a rabbitry is a serious matter

The rate of weight gain and fur density are also affected by the illumination of the rabbitry and the duration daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. A sufficient level of illumination is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter lighting is required, but dim. To make the lighting more comfortable when servicing the rabbitry, install several additional light bulbs above the cages, but connect them to the second switch (or to the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of a regular switch and allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.

Rabbit cages

The easiest way to keep rabbits is in cages under a canopy in the open air. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this type of keeping is practiced at the beginning of a rabbit breeder’s “career,” but gradually they come to the conclusion that a rabbitry is necessary. It’s just that during the winter the livestock often decreases greatly, feed consumption increases significantly, and the gain is very small. It turns out that it is more profitable to build a rabbitry and heat it.

Dimensions and design of rabbit cages

The size of rabbit cages depends on the breed. How larger rabbits, the more space they require. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped back, then the height at the back is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. The width is more difficult - cages of different sizes are made for males and females. In cages for female rabbits, it is advisable to fence off the queen cell - a closed, small volume in which the female rabbit will build a nest. Without taking into account the queen cell, the length of the cage for males and females is the same - 500-800 cm.

There are several options for constructing a queen cell:

A cube made of boards is placed in spacious cells suitable size, in which a hole is made for passage.
Immediately, during construction, part of the cell for the queen cell is fenced off.
There are wide removable doors on the sides of the cage. Before the female rabbit has offspring, the doors are removed and the queen cell is hung (reliable fastening is required).

The optimal dimensions of the queen cell are: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or whatever the size of your cell is). It is advisable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the queen cell. On it the rabbit will hide from the annoying little ones. In this case, she will not accidentally trample them, as happens if there is no shelf.

Queen cell hung to the cage for a female rabbit

A hole is made from the queen cell into the main cell. It should not start level with the floor; there should be a threshold of at least 5 cm. In the first days, it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.

How to make a floor

Regardless of the type of keeping rabbits, the cage must be dry. Therefore, a solid floor is very rarely made; it is better to make a slotted one, with large gaps, or from a metal mesh with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined towards the back wall (you can also towards the front, but this is less convenient). A grate or mesh is nailed into the back of the floor, through which urine pours out and excrement falls out.

It is better to make the floor in a cage for rabbits double - the first level is made of wooden slats or a metal grid

It is much better to make a double floor - the first is lattice, the second is solid. For a slatted floor, take wooden planks 20-25 mm wide and fill them with a gap of 15 mm. All waste, both liquid and solid, normally falls through such gaps. Instead of slats, you can use a rigid mesh with thick wire and small cells.

Mesh floor made of galvanized wire - also performed well

The lower level of the floor - the pallet - is often made of galvanized iron, preferably from a single piece. In this case, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and a gutter is formed in the center. The height of the pallet is 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is not necessary.

To make the metal last longer, it can be treated with drying oil. If it is necessary to splice pieces, make the connection so that everything drips off, and it is advisable to lubricate it bitumen mastic- so that sewage does not flow onto the floor of the rabbitry.

Cages for female rabbits are queen cells on the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized steel and has a trough for urine drainage and ease of cleaning.

At the same time, the lower tier of the floor must be movable so that it can be pulled out and washed/cleaned. To do this, corners are stuffed onto which a sheet of metal rides, like on a sled.

It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor for each cell. It can be common to two or three located nearby. If these are cages for rabbits, you usually end up with a common tray for two cages, with queen cells on each side. If cages of young animals for fattening or males are located in a row, three cages can be combined.

Sometimes flat slate is also used as the lower floor. But in this case, the drain can only be organized backwards or forwards and only into the gutter that runs along the cage - the sheet cannot be bent in any way.

Doors

Doors are usually made with mesh. A frame is made from a block onto which a mesh is stretched. Tighten the nails or screws so that their points do not stick out inside the cage. It is better to stuff the mesh so that it is flush on the side of the cage. This way there is less chance of rabbits chewing through the door. Those who are more comfortable with welding weld a frame from a small corner, stretch the eraser onto a steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter, and weld this wire to the door.

In terms of size, a larger door is more convenient - it will be more convenient for you to maintain the cage. Constipations are ordinary hooks or latches; they are also made in the old fashioned way with a piece of a block that spins on a nail driven into its middle. But this type of constipation is very unreliable.

One of the most simple options constipation for rabbit cages

If carpentry is not your thing, to make the door more rigid, you can fill the block diagonally. It will prevent the door from warping (as in the photo above). Please note that the bar is padded on the outside - this will prevent rabbits from chewing on it.

Roof

You can cover rabbit cages with any inexpensive material. But we must remember that overheating and hypothermia are destructive for rabbits. Therefore, simply throwing a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can stuff plywood (moisture-resistant, construction), OSB and any other similar material.

If the cages will be placed outside, without a canopy, something will need to be placed on the sheet material to protect them from precipitation. In more northern areas or when installing the cage in the shade, you can lay roofing material or more modern material for waterproofing. It can not be fused, but glued to bitumen mastic.

Another option is to lay slate, preferably wave slate. Moreover, it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create air gap, it won't be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying/withering grass. Dried in the shade, it retains more nutrients.

Sennik, drinking bowls, feeders

For rabbits you don’t need much equipment - a hay barn, feeders for bulk small feed, drinking bowls. The design of the drinking bowls should be such that they can be easily removed - they need to be washed and the water changed. For these purposes, some kind of trays are usually adapted, under which a “seat” is made from a strip of metal, fixed to the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.

There is one very good option for a drinking bowl from the “cheap and cheerful” category. A cutting is used as a “cup holder” sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Trimming height - 80-100 mm. A trimmed 2-liter bottle is inserted inside this ring. plastic bottle. The bottle is cut flush with the “glass holder”, only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.

Senniks are made either between two cages, bevelling adjacent walls in the shape of the letter V. This method is more convenient when building cages for rabbits (seen in several photos above). The second option for cages of males and young animals is to make one of the walls (or part of the wall) lattice-like, and attach a piece of plywood, OSB, a board made of planks, etc. to it on hinges. Fix it in the desired position using a hook, rope, or wire.

In principle, if there is not enough space on the side, such a canopy can be made in the front, on the door. It’s just that in addition to the drinking bowl, they often nail/make a feeder on the door.

Feeders are made by anyone using whatever they can. Some people have plastic or metal trays attached, others make them out of wood, they even try to make them out of drywall. An interesting option seemed to be an attached piece of a large-section plasterboard profile (pictured below).

You can make a feeder out of wood, but the edges must be covered with tin.

If you have some tinsmithing skills, you can make a feeder from galvanized sheet metal.

To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the feeder.

What materials are the frame and walls made of?

The frame for cages in a rabbitry is made from wooden beam or from a load-bearing (wall) galvanized profile for plasterboard; welded frames from metal pipe. They are the most reliable, but also the heaviest. More suitable for permanent installation in a rabbitry.

The lightest cages are made from a profile, but the choice of materials is very limited - heavy ones cannot be used. When using timber, there are no questions about the weight of the material, but there is a problem - rabbits chew the wood. Therefore, they try to make cells so that there are fewer protruding corners - smooth surfaces they can't chew.

As you saw in the photo, the walls of rabbit cages are made from different materials- plywood, OSB, wooden boards and planks. They often use whoever has what. Most problem areas they beat it with tin or put a mesh on top - this also prevents the wood from being chewed. There are cages that are almost entirely made of mesh. Young animals for fattening feel good in them.

Photo report on the manufacture of a cage for a rabbitry from a galvanized profile

This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remains after construction/repair. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or another are acceptable, but the rabbits should have room in the cage.

This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55*75*55 cm, the mother liquor is 35*55*30 cm. There is a reinforced profile for the racks, and for the crossbars regular job- as usual with drywall - fasten the pieces with self-tapping screws (fleas).

The floor in the main part is made of a block 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. The screws must be screwed in so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) the strip is chewed, it will be easy to replace with a new one.

In the queen cell the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If it is warm from below, they will not get sick.

The height of the queen cell is 20 cm lower than the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, there is a shelf on which the rabbit will escape from the annoying little ones.

To prevent external plywood joints from being chewed, we cover them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for the ones that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45° so that they do not ride up or stick out.