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A plot inherited, donated or bought in a hurry may not always represent paradise With smooth lawns and exotic, well-groomed plants.

There may even be weeds on the site cultivated plants, overgrown due to excessive self-seeding.

As a rule, a site that has stood for a long time without care becomes overgrown with trees, bushes and weeds.

The fence can be dismantled for firewood, and a lot of garbage can be dumped on the site itself. It is not uncommon for streams of rainwater to break through entire trenches in the ground. Such a site will definitely have to be developed and improved.

Work planning

The first impression of meeting a new suburban acquisition may turn out to be very negative and even depressing, but there is no need to fall into despair. There are no impossible tasks. You need to start by planning first the layout of the site itself, and then move on to the work plan and calculating the need for materials and equipment. You can do the work yourself, for this you need to have a lot of free time, reliable tool And good health, which will be further strengthened by working on fresh air. It should be taken into account that it may take months, or even years, to improve an overgrown area alone. Hiring a team with heavy equipment will save a lot of time, but it will be very expensive and will not provide the required quality of work. In this case, the site will be badly damaged, and the soil will be contaminated with the remains of trees and bushes. The third is the most best option- independently develop the site with the periodic involvement of relatives and acquaintances or hired workers, who are easy to find through advertisements.

After drawing up a master plan to bring the site into decent shape, it is necessary to clarify the exact boundaries of your territory. This is necessary not only so as not to mistakenly waste time and effort on cultivating someone else’s territory, which will then have to be given away, but also to return your own if for some reason neighbors took it for use. Operation on precise definition Surveyors will draw the boundaries of the site for a small fee. Along the way, you can examine the composition of the soil on the site in order to know what additives and in what quantities will be required in the future. It’s better not to install it right away. Firstly, it will interfere with soil cultivation. Secondly, it will impede the movement of transport, which will constantly deliver any materials or take away construction waste.

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Clearing the area of ​​trees

After establishing the exact boundaries of your property, you need to decide on the trees. It is not at all necessary to cut down all the vegetation and turn the area into bare prairie. Some trees can serve good decoration areas and improve appearance plot. If you plan to build a gazebo or install a barbecue on the site, then the shade from a tree growing next to them will be good additional protection from the sun. Once the fate of the trees has been decided, felling can begin. If the trees are thin, you can simply cut them down with an ax.

If fat people are sentenced to liquidation, tall trees, here you need to seek help from professionals. Felling such trees is not only difficult, but also dangerous. The stumps should be left high, up to 1 meter, this will make it easier to uproot them later. It is better not to throw away the wood remaining after felling, but to cut it into convenient pieces and carefully fold it. Over time, firewood can be useful for a fire or barbecue. The branches, having been cleared of leaves, can be used for artistic weaving, strengthening work, or after drying they can simply be burned, thereby destroying some of the weeds and fertilizing the soil with ashes.

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Getting rid of stumps

Stumps left after cutting down trees can hardly be called a decoration for a dacha or home. At first, they constantly send out young branches that need to be cut down. When the stump stops sprouting new shoots, a lot of harmful organisms settle in it: mold, fungi, insects - all this will be distributed over the entire area of ​​the site. Therefore, it is better to get rid of stumps immediately, at the same time freeing up usable space for future plantings. If this work is left for later, then uprooting can cause serious damage to the already created landscape: damage paths, flower beds, crush flowers and grass. There are several ways to get rid of stumps.

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Uprooting stumps with a tractor

This is the fastest and easiest way to get rid of stumps. It is enough to clear the path to the stumps, dig them up a little, and then the equipment will do everything. The remaining hole after removing the stump can be used for planting a new tree, shrub, or as a mini-pit for any construction element. If there is no use for the hole, then you can simply fill it up. The disadvantages of this method include its high cost and danger. The use of a tractor is economically justified if it is necessary to get rid of large quantity stumps

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Removing stumps with a crusher

A method that causes virtually no damage to the surrounding landscape. It is good if there is a valuable shrub growing next to the stump that needs to be preserved, or if there is some kind of structure and when removed from the ground the stump can damage it with its roots. For such work there is no need to clear the entrance to the site and use heavy equipment. The only disadvantage of using a crusher is the small processing depth, only up to 30 cm. In the place that will remain after removing the stump, it is no longer possible to plant a tree or lay it without unnecessary problems. strip foundation, since some of the roots will remain in the ground.

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Using chemicals to remove stumps

Very simple and cheap way, which does not require either heavy equipment or the help of specialists. All you need is an electric drill and precise dosage of relatively harmless chemicals. The essence of the method is that as much as possible is drilled into the stump. deep holes, into which wet saltpeter is placed. After which the stump is isolated to prevent water from getting inside and nitrate being washed out.

It should remain in this state for about a year so that the saltpeter completely saturates all the wood, including the roots. Next, the stump is set on fire and completely burns out, including the underground, root part. Chemical method The good thing is that it doesn’t require any effort, but it takes a lot of time. After the stump burns, at least a year must pass before the area in which it was located becomes suitable for sowing grass or planting berry bushes. In addition, you need to be careful not to get a chemical burn to your eyes and respiratory organs, and also not to set fire to the peat bog (if the area is located on it).

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Destruction of stumps by mushrooms

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Manual Stump Removal

The cheapest and safest for environment method of uprooting stumps. Here, as a rule, no special machinery or equipment is required. To begin with, the stump is dug up as much as possible, and its roots, as far as possible, are freed from the ground. After this, the roots are separated from the stump with an ax and saw. Next, using physical force, the stump is removed from the ground by shaking.

The roots remaining in the ground can be pulled out manually, using a winch, or destroyed by the above chemically. It should be taken into account that it will not be possible to cope with such work alone; you need to think in advance about attracting a group of physically strong assistants. In addition, stumps cannot be manually uprooted in winter and in slush, since frozen ground and dirt will make this work almost impossible.

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Removing bushes

Getting rid of excess bushes is very easy. To do this you will need a regular garden pruner or hacksaw and bayonet shovel. If the bush is very thick and lush, then you first need to cut off the branches to get to its main trunks. Then one person begins to pull the bush towards himself at an angle to the ground, and the second at this time digs up the roots of the bush, freeing it from the ground. As a rule, this method is enough to guarantee getting rid of bushes. If you simply cut down a bush at the root, then very soon it will produce fresh shoots and the operation will have to be repeated.

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Leveling the area

After removing trees and stumps from the site, it is necessary to level it. Planning is necessary in order to get rid of holes in which water will collect and extra bumps that will spoil the appearance. No need to be perfect. It would be most advisable to make the surface slightly elevated in the middle of the area with a uniform slope towards the edges to allow rainwater to drain. Along the edges of the site you need to equip a drainage ditch to collect excess moisture from the soil. The edges of the ditch must be strengthened so that they do not crumble under the influence of the flow of water, otherwise each rain will carry away part of the earth from the site, and the ditch will eventually turn into a wide stream. The walls of the ditch can be lined with branches left over after felling trees, pieces of slate, boards, corrugated sheets or metal tiles that always remain after construction. Large boulders, if any are found on the site, can be left and later used as the basis for a rock garden.

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Getting rid of weeds

After cleaning, it’s time to fight weeds, otherwise you won’t be able to grow on it. beautiful flowers and bright green grass. Weeds are one of the most formidable and constant enemies for a summer cottage. They take nutrients and moisture from the soil, poison it, and block other plants from the sun. An area overgrown with weeds will not bring much joy when traveling suburban area. Weeds can be combated in several ways, one at a time, as well as combining and combining them. Please note that weeds cannot be destroyed in one go. Each type of weed has its own lifespan: some can be stored in the ground in the form of seeds for years, waiting for favorable circumstances. In addition, weeds constantly enter the site along with fertilizers, are carried by the wind, and on clothes and shoes. If you do not constantly fight weeds, then the area, no matter how carefully it is landscaped, will very soon become overgrown again.

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Preparatory work

First, you need to mow down all the grass that is on the site with a scythe or trimmer, and if there are no neighbors and the site is surrounded by uncultivated soil, then a couple of meters around it, since the lush vegetation surrounding it will give a huge influx of seeds to the cleared land. Next, you need to collect all the garbage from the ground: old leaves, grass, branches, stones and the like. There is no need to throw away trash. You can put it in the far corner of the site and use it to make compost.

It is not always the case that the owners get the plots in excellent condition with the beds dug up and trimmed. Basically, the new owner simply gets a plot overgrown with weeds and weeds with fruit trees and bushes that had gone wild and began to bear completely different large and juicy fruits than they had previously produced in a well-groomed state. However, sometimes a plot of land is inherited from grandparents, or it is simply forgotten about for a while, during which time it becomes overgrown with weeds and thickets of grass as tall as a man. Of course, it is impossible to plant anything in such an area without first clearing it. The first task facing the owner of the site is to clear the territory and prepare it for the next season.

In general, smart and zealous gardeners have long come up with many ways that allow them to quickly and efficiently develop virgin soil in order to use the land for their needs. After all, land that has rested for several years and is overgrown with weeds is excellent for any planting, since it has accumulated all the necessary nutrients. All that remains is to bring it into proper condition and begin to implement your plan. But this sounds simple only in words. In fact, this is a huge amount of work that requires a lot of effort and time. But the result is worth it.

In general, all methods of developing virgin soil can be divided into those that allow you to plant some plants in the first season after processing and those that do not allow you to do this.

Radical changes

This method is considered quite simple in concept and labor-intensive in execution. In the process of clearing a site from thickets, it is necessary to remove the top layer of earth, called turf, in which numerous roots are intertwined. The cut layers are placed in a designated area with the roots facing up and covered with material that does not transmit light. Periodically, this pile should be treated with urea so that after a few years it turns into excellent compost.

As for the soil itself, a new layer of soil is poured on top of the cleared soil, which is ordered on several machines. The main thing is to know the origin of the soil and its quality. Otherwise, you risk wasting money and getting a new layer of soil rich in weeds and pathogens and even pests.

The simpler the better

The first method is relatively easier, since it involves digging up the area manually without removing the weed roots.

Another thing is that with this method you will not be able to sow a lot of things on the site for a long time. Cabbage and potatoes will come to the rescue. Cabbage is planted as seedlings, but as it grows it will bring powerful shade from its leaves, just like cabbage. This shade will cover the ground and begin to suppress weed growth. In addition, you will need to periodically hill up the beds, which will also help destroy weeds.

For greater effect, you can mulch between rows with grass clippings, manure or compost.

Useful waste paper This one is very original way It will work if you follow the instructions carefully. To make it a reality, you will need rotted manure (you can chicken droppings

, compost or humus). This composition must be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the developed area and covered on top with black and white newspaper 5-7 layers thick. If you find this difficult, you can replace the newspaper with thick cardboard. Compost mixed with manure is poured onto the paper layer on top. The advantage of this method is that you can make holes in newspapers in which you can plant any crops grown through seedlings. This is perfect for those who don’t want to wait a long time, being content with only potatoes and cabbage. At the end of the season except great harvest

grown crops, you will also receive a clean area, with soil enriched with vitamins and microelements.

Black bedspread Black film – pretty known method getting rid of weeds.

You can cover the entire area with it, so that under the hot summer sun a real hell will be created for all living plants. Not a single weed can survive the absence of sunlight and this steam room, so by the end of the season the film can be removed, the soil can be dug up and you will feel like a winner. Alas, with this method there is no talk of any plantings this season.

Green manure comes to the rescue (video - site planning) A lot of nice words it is said about green manure plants, which have a lot of benefits.

Winter rye is the first of these three helper crops that will rid the area of ​​weeds. Rye itself perfectly suppresses the growth of other plants, and winter rye is used for a reason. Rye seeds are planted in spring instead of autumn. Thus, the gardener deceives the plant, which will not be able to bloom during the season and will not form an ear.

You can enhance the effect if you cut wheat several times a season without damaging the growing part of the plant. In the spring of the next season, the rye will go into the ground, and in its place you can plant potatoes or other crops, depending on how overgrown your area is.

Sunflower is a much easier job for a summer resident, but no less ruthless in relation to weeds. In early May, its seeds are planted in the ground after digging as thick as possible. When the seedlings emerge from the ground, other plants simply have no chance to survive under such pressure.

At the beginning of autumn, sunflowers can be mowed and chopped into pieces of twenty centimeters, and then thrown into the soil. During the fall, these parts will decompose and well fertilize the ground, preparing it for planting new crops next season.

Bush beans are not only effective, but also delicious. You just need to sow it thicker than is usually prescribed for it. A distance of 5-10 cm is maintained between plants, and 20-30 cm between rows. During the first month, you will still have to weed between the plants, and then the beans will cover the entire bed with their leaves, and in this shade it is unlikely that anything will be able to grow. When the season comes to an end, the tops of the beans will go into compost, and you should go through the area with a hoe to remove the most tenacious weeds.

As you can see, the methods are very different in nature. You can choose any of them, depending on whether you are in a hurry to plant something on your site or are ready to wait for time and the sun to do their job. In any case, if you take up this task and bring it to the end, you can then enjoy the pleasures of working on your weed-free plot.

Dear fellow summer residents!
My experience in developing twenty acres, presented in the form of an article in one of the St. Petersburg magazines. We criticize, we clarify
Philip Urban

Dedicated to the pioneers of virgin lands

The land market has been as active as never before in the last six months. This means that the percentage of transactions made in a hurry, when the future homeowner buys a “pig in a poke”, having a vague idea of ​​​​the boundaries of the site, and the nature of the soil, and how to cultivate it, has also increased. Today, when many novice homeowners find themselves face to face with their newly acquired acres, it is appropriate to talk about where to start developing the land. Specialized Internet forums show that this topic is one of the most relevant. After all, the vast majority of new sites do not at all resemble a ground lawn or a putting green.
In this regard, the editor-in-chief of Zagorodnoye Obozreniye, Philip Urban, shares his own experience of developing twenty acres, which a year ago were covered with old stumps, as well as impenetrable thickets of bushes and raspberries.

If the joy of a purchase at the sight of acres overgrown with weeds or viscous clay gives way to a headache, then it’s time to sit down at the table or on a stump and outline a plan of action. Working without a plan is unproductive and ineffective. Let's start by working on the mistakes that slow down the pace of land development.
1. The desire to do everything on our own. A trip “to the dacha” with an ax and a chainsaw in the trunk and a grueling weekend of uprooting stumps (if you don’t have enough experience, then one tree frame sticking out of the ground will take two days) can forever turn you away from the idea of ​​becoming a homeowner. Moreover, the area around St. Petersburg is full of workers from neighboring countries who will happily take on such work.
2. Trying to solve everything with money. The local forestry enterprise will be happy to tell you the amount for which local craftsmen will “smooth out” the area with a bulldozer and bring in an excavator, through which mountains of stumps, stones and other debris will be loaded into dump trucks and taken away in a direction unknown to you. I am sure that this figure (from 10-12 thousand rubles per hundred square meters) will not please you. In addition, after such a rough operation, your site may turn into a quagmire, and you will have to dig out wood remains from the ground for a long time and clear away rubble.
3. Excavation with unsuitable or low-quality tools and equipment, the pace is reduced tenfold. A dull ax and a flimsy shovel will not allow you to process even a few square meters, and a light walk-behind tractor, recommended by the sellers of a specialized store as an expensive toy, will become tightly entangled in the roots.
4. And finally, the most important thing: working without a plan is completely wasted money. They just dismantled one corner and filled up another. They forced the workers to cut out the forest, and then plant a new one...
From specialized “translated” manuals on the basics of landscape design, you can usually learn that soils are mainly “heavy” clayey and “light” sandy. The former require the addition of sand, the latter clay. At the same time, both of them also add huge amounts of organic matter. For us, these rules are not always relevant. The North-West of Russia has its own distinctive specifics: namely, we have such an irreplaceable natural resource as humus - at least export it. In Soviet times, gardeners and novice dacha owners were most often offered to develop impassable swamps rather than arable land. Today, such difficult-to-develop plots have ended up on the secondary land market. In addition, the range of land offers for private homeowners has grown with yesterday's state farm fields with soils depleted and sometimes spoiled by the uncontrolled use of chemicals, impenetrable thickets with a thickness of fallen and half-rotten trunks and huge boulders, copses, which, due to illiterate reclamation, are rapidly turning into a swamp... But nothing stops homeowner candidates.
In today's review, we do not consider the implementation of the master plan for a cottage or dacha village: issues of land reclamation, electrification, as well as the construction of access roads are the responsibility of the development companies selling the plots, as well as the competence of the boards gardening partnerships and DNP. And if their activity leaves much to be desired, you will have to mobilize your neighbors and take action social work. Let's consider the issues that have to be resolved independently, and in the near future after purchasing the land. Let's start with the boundaries of your site.

Neighbors and borders
It often happens that the emergence of new landowners stimulates the “old-timers” to revise the boundaries of the territory. When the question arises of where to put the fence, they try to win a piece of territory from you by hook or by crook. A little trick: if the fence posts are shifted a meter deep into your territory, and the length of the plot is fifty meters, consider that you have donated fifty meters of land. And if the plot you purchased stood abandoned for many years, and the neighbors tirelessly developed the territory, there is a high probability that they could not resist the temptation to grab a piece of “nobody’s” land. This happens all the time and sometimes leads to protracted conflicts. But starting the “development of virgin lands” with quarrels is not the best option, especially since many issues will have to be resolved jointly with neighbors one way or another. And in most cases, the conflict can easily be resolved through civilized means.
Let us remind you that to carry out the purchase and sale transaction of a plot, your predecessors collected many documents, the main one of which is a certificate of assignment of a cadastral number. A cadastre is a document that unambiguously defines a site: its area, category, boundaries. And if you purchased a plot, it means cadastral number he already has it. This also means that the boundaries of the territory were agreed upon with your neighbors, and there is documentary evidence of this in the land surveying business: they either signed the protocol for the approval of boundaries themselves, or (if they avoided this in every possible way) were notified of the upcoming procedure by telegram. Thus, in order to determine the real boundaries of your territory, it is enough to invite the surveyors who formed the case to put up boundary signs that correspond to the previously completed cadastral survey. This service is paid; on average, installing one boundary sign costs 500 rubles, and in the simplest case, if the site is a quadrangle, four of them are needed.
If you were told that the pegs have already been installed, this should not mislead you, because rearranging them after the specialists have left the site is a no-no. favorite hobby some not entirely decent citizens. However, we should not immediately blame our neighbors for “theft”; our task is to try to avoid conflicts. Make it clear that an area with incorrect boundaries is a source legal problems primarily for them.
So, the boundaries of your territory are known. We are not putting up a fence yet; it will only get in the way when dismantling perennial rubble and windbreaks; we mark the boundaries with pegs and ropes.

On solid ground
Many publications dedicated to “developing virgin soil” with your own hands recommend planning the site yourself or with the help of an invited landscape architect. Today we will not discuss the nuances of various planning solutions, especially since this is a creative matter and many manuals are devoted to this issue. landscape design. Let's note some nuances. Firstly, the natural “disadvantages” of the landscape when the right approach can always be turned into advantages: it is better to preserve beautiful strong trees if possible (cut them down - you will have time), an unliftable boulder and an embankment formed after reclamation (simply - laying ditches) can become part of landscape compositions, and a swampy hole with a barely noticeable stream bed - after clearing, it will turn into a flowing reservoir. Secondly, in addition to the landscape design (obviously, it will probably change during the work), it is important to create a scenario for its implementation, as well as prepare a solid springboard - the zero cycle.
Before starting the “general cleaning”, you should look at your own sketch design of the landscape to determine the place of entry to the site and the area where garbage will be stored for removal (large stumps, stones, household waste). It must be provided convenient access. If the site is separated from the road by a drainage ditch, development will have to begin with the construction of a crossing ( concrete pipe at least four meters long, which is filled sand and gravel mixture or broken bricks) and clearing the area directly behind the entrance. Such a beginning will significantly facilitate further landscape and construction works, parking, loading and unloading cars, storage of building materials. If there is a hole behind the ditch, it should be filled up. Most best material in order to eliminate large gaps, craters, and also raise low areas of the territory - broken bricks and construction waste. Some construction organizations, who specialize in demolition, give it away for free - you only have to pay for transportation. On top of the newly created solid soil, a sand cushion, which is covered with geotextile, a fertile soil layer - and you can lay out a lawn. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves just yet.

Eastern excavator
So, as we have already noted, most of the areas being developed for the first time in Leningrad region are peat swamps, or marshy and humus-rich areas covered with lush wild vegetation. This is exactly the case when the development of the territory will require painstaking manual labor, but the earth will certainly reward you for your hard work.
Let's start with cleaning up the territory and immediately note for beginners that it is unlikely that it will be possible to limit ourselves to one Saturday and a picnic with the invitation of family and friends: the “cleanup” will most likely last for weeks and months and will end with the involvement of “randomly passing by” handymen from the neighboring southern republics.
You will have to get rid of bushes and small trees, long-term layers of dry debris plant origin, stumps and stumps. We cut off thin trees with a lopper with long handles, those that are thicker are cut with a chainsaw and cut down with a sharp ax, but not at the root, but approximately to the waist (to make it easier to uproot). This kind of work is easy to do yourself. Do not throw away straight tree trunks and thin branches of bushes, but immediately put them aside: they will be useful for weaving small retaining walls on the terrain and strengthening the edges of drainage ditches.
It is better to invite migrant workers to remove stumps. In this case, your hands and head will be freed up for more intellectual, but no less important work. If you do not have experience collaborating with workers from neighboring countries, keep the following in mind. Our eastern neighbors have a mathematical mindset, and if you, instead of identifying a specific area of ​​work, with a vague gesture outline a clearing to which, in your opinion, they should put their efforts, be prepared for the fact that they will zealously get to work and cut out a small fragment , and then they will say “Boss, we need to add more”... In order not to waste money, it is better to divide the territory into squares (about a hundred square meters in size), marking the boundaries of each with ropes and pegs. When negotiating the cleaning of each fragment, you should clearly explain to the senior (the one with whom the price is usually negotiated) what results you expect. That is, indicate the place where large trunks, stumps, stones, and dead wood should ultimately be stacked. And which trees should remain in the treated area after the work is completed (mark them with a piece of rope). If you agree on a price, rest assured: everything will be done carefully and on time. Depending on the complexity of the work, processing one hundred square meters of land with an “eastern excavator” will cost you from two (remove dead wood, bushes, uproot two or three stumps) to six thousand rubles (large stumps, dismantling rubble, moving large earthen masses).

From ditch to lawn
We continue cleaning. Do not rush to burn dry grass, roots and dried raspberries. Firstly, as we have already noted, humus is irreplaceable natural resource and to exterminate it at a time when some agriculturally enlightened countries are ready to buy fir cones and sawdust from us is simply uncivilized. And it’s dangerous: just one spark is enough for a long-term carpet to turn into a conflagration that extends far beyond the borders of your property. If the site is already electrified, the main assistant at this stage will be garden shredder waste with electric drive (there are also petrol ones, but they are more expensive). I can admit that for many years I could not understand the purpose of this device, which grinds bark and branches. But this year, when the pile of dead wood collected on the site reached almost two meters in height, I realized that its purchase would pay for itself very quickly: transporting this volume in a dump truck to the nearest pit would have cost a little less.
Now our task is to turn the surface into a lawn, but not for golf or recreation, but “technical”. There is no point in postponing its breakdown. Because humus-rich soil, freed from mulch of fallen leaves, pine needles and raspberries, will give a rich harvest of weeds.
In translated bestsellers for gardeners and landowners who want to lay out a lawn, it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil, put it in the yard until better times and start preparing the subsoil: bring a truck or two of soil, make drainage... Let's say right away: this is not for us, Russian landowners , and for European kindergartens the size is fifty hundred. We will need a heavy (at least 50 kg) walk-behind tractor with cutters for cultivating the soil, shovels and rakes (preferably not metal ones, but “peasant” ones, with wooden teeth).
More than one serious book is devoted to how to make a “correct” lawn, and you can buy mixtures of cereal seeds in any supermarket. We will not go into the details of “lawn construction”; we will only note that at this stage we are interested in the most unpretentious and drought-resistant grass mixtures, the task of which is to create dense layer turf and don't give weeds a chance.
We continue to prepare the area for a technical lawn using the same fragments as we once determined the work fronts for uprooting. Moreover, if your plans are not to leave some of the work for later, but to develop the entire area, we begin plowing from the far corners. Semi-decomposed rot from the soil surface is sent to compost heap which we spill special means to speed up the maturation of compost (there are many of them on sale, but not all of them are of high quality: ask your more experienced neighbors about which ones are better). We go through the selected fragment with a cultivator, without trying to dig deeply, but we try to pull out all the roots if possible. The second stage is to plow the ground more deeply.
The prepared soil must be leveled so that there are no holes in which water collects or hummocks. Oily forest black soil should be diluted with sand. There is no need to strive for a completely horizontal surface, but it is necessary to ensure a slope towards the drainage ditches. Before you start sowing grass, the soil should be left fallow for two to three weeks to get rid of “awakened” weeds. However, by the time you plow the last fragment, the first ones will already be ready for sowing, and you will have time to read a lot of specialized literature. The most favorable moment for sowing winter grasses will come at the beginning of autumn, and if you manage to complete all the indicated chores by September, there is a chance that the young grass will go under the snow with a stronger root system and in winter you will have time to think about the layout of the future garden.

There are no identical areas and no universal recipes for everyone. However, in conclusion - a few more general advice. Firstly, at the very beginning of the development of the site, you should invite a geologist who will manually drill several wells in different angles plot and will give recommendations on the construction of a well and septic tank (the price of this extremely useful service is approximately 5 thousand rubles). After talking with this specialist, you will get a lot of interesting and useful information about the nature of the soil, the quality of the soil, the level of occurrence groundwater. It is possible that this information will require significant adjustments in the design you have developed. landscape project, but they will definitely help you decide on the design garden paths and building foundations.
Secondly, attention should be paid drainage ditch, separating your property from the road. In new dacha areas and gardens, they are usually deepened with an excavator, filling the roads with excavated soil. As a result of such not very competent work, the ditch acquires steep edges, which erode and crumble, eating up your meters and acres. In order for the gardening board not to rob you of your own money (usually reclamation is paid for through contributions), you need to take the initiative to maintain the ditch running along your site into your own hands. If it is already too wide, you should narrow its channel by building a retaining wall along its middle. This could be a low wattle fence made from vines that we prepared when cutting young wood, slate fragments, or antiseptic-treated slabs and lumber trimmings (waste from the nearest sawmill is suitable). Carefully fill the void between the edge and the retaining wall, forming a slope of 45 0, with all unnecessary natural materials, which were found on the site, with sand, stones, soil taken out of the pond, and a rammer. When the ditches surrounding your property are in the channel you want, you can sow grass to strengthen the banks. However, if by the time you purchase the plot the ditch has already turned into a ravine, it will take more than one year to return the territory in this way: you will have to move the retaining wall several times, add soil and sow grass.
Thirdly, if there are wood processing industries nearby, a garden waste shredder can be a very profitable purchase. Ground pine bark, which is discarded by woodworkers, is an excellent material for mulching tree trunk areas, sprinkling paths and those parts of the area where, in your opinion, grass should not grow.
And one last thing. If in today’s lengthy text we haven’t mentioned lawn mowers at all, this does not mean that the grass that we sowed abundantly all summer in an effort to cultivate virgin soil does not need to be mowed. Simply, since we are not talking about ground floors, but only about technical lawns that do not require ideal surface, - it’s quite possible to limit yourself to a gas or electric trimmer. This tool is the best tool in the fight against weeds, which encroach on virgin land from all sides, and the purchase of a lawn mower can be postponed until next year.

A piece of land that “has not been trodden by man for a long time” is a rather sad sight. And to be honest, his appearance causes shock at first, and only then sadness. The fact is that most often the land, unattended, becomes overgrown with all possible weeds, bushes and trees. Moreover, even cultivated varieties of trees and plants turn into “wildlife” - they are no longer useful, but they won’t cause any trouble.

Moreover, if the area at least had a fence, then there is a possibility that there is no garbage on it. But without fencing, land plots very quickly turn into unauthorized garbage dumps. If you have such an overgrown area and don't know where to start, check out this article.

A good plan is half the battle

Many people, starting to work with a “wild” site, grab their heads and strive to do everything at once. It is not right. Many are trying to evade work by hiring a team of workers. Not a bad solution if you have some extra money in stock. The fact is that the cost of developing an overgrown site today is quite high. If you don't know how to develop an overgrown area , but still decided to act independently, our advice is - before you develop virgin land, draw up a work plan.

First, decide what the purpose of the site you will be developing is. The fact is that if it is needed only for building a house, then the work plan will be a little simplified, and if you decide to do agriculture, then your work will noticeably increase.

Carefully study the territory that you will need to develop. Is there any household or construction waste on the site? How many trees and shrubs are there, what condition are they in and are they of any value? Is it possible to leave something, or does everything need to be removed? Are there any stumps on the site, what are their size and appearance? Perhaps there are some buildings on the territory: a house, a well, a toilet.

Make a plan - this will help cope with panic and will be a good help. The sequence of work performed looks approximately as follows.

1. Clear the area.
2. Remove grass and overgrowth.
3. Remove bushes and dead wood.
4. Remove unnecessary trees.
5. Uproot stumps.
6. Dig and loosen the soil.
7. Bring in black soil.
8. Level the area.
9. Add fertilizer.
10. Give the earth a rest - let it fall asleep.

This plan must be followed if you intend to engage in farming in an overgrown area. If you purchased it for development, then you can limit yourself to the first six points.

Clearing the area

Since it is quite difficult for one person to process an overgrown area - practically impossible, you need to create a small team: family members, relatives, friends and acquaintances are perfect for these purposes. Especially when performing the first stages of work.

1. Clear the area of ​​the site from the debris that lies on the surface and there is no need to apply great physical force to remove it. This can be either household or construction waste, stones, sticks, etc.
2. All collected garbage should be piled into one or two large piles closer to that part of the site to which there is vehicle access.
3. You should not bury garbage - even if it is small and insignificant - in the ground. This will only add more work to you. You should especially not do this under trees - the debris will interfere with the development of the root system of those trees that you decide to leave.

Removing grass and overgrowth

This stage of work is probably the most labor-intensive. After all visible debris has been cleared from the area, it is necessary to deal with weeds and grass thickets. This work is best done manually, despite the fact that there will be a lot of hassle, but it is enough to put the land in order just once rather than struggling with the same problems every year. Some novice “farmers” prefer to work with a motor cultivator, but this has its drawbacks.

1. Large weeds are pulled out, then, using a bayonet-shovel, the top layer of earth - turf (approximately five centimeters) is removed. This way you can remove the roots of weeds. perennial plants. The turf should not be thrown away - it can be laid in layers in separate place(roots up) and cover with a dark film that does not allow sunlight to pass through. In a year, this land will become ordinary fertile soil - it can be used for its intended purpose.
2. The motor cultivator cuts the turf along with the weeds and embeds it all back into the soil. Thus, this is a waste of work, since the technique crushes the weeds and turf, causing the grass to grow further, since the roots remain in the ground. In addition, they remain in the ground various insects- pests – the motor cultivator does not get rid of them.
3. An uncultivated, overgrown plot of land is difficult to cultivate without resorting to chemicals - here herbicides, for example, Reglon, Hurricane, Roundup, can help you. Before using such toxic drugs, carefully read the instructions and follow all precautions. Basically, manufacturers advise carrying out the treatment in calm weather in early summer. The grass finally dies in two to three weeks - all that remains is to collect it with a rake and take it to the trash or burn it. It is worth noting that it is possible to plant cultivated plants in areas treated with herbicides after 1.5-2 months!

Cleaning of bushes and dead wood

Everything is very simple here - a “well” overgrown area will definitely have a considerable number of shrubs. To remove bushes, you need to use garden pruners to remove most of the branches, leaving the central ones, and then dig up the root and uproot it. It is best to do this together - one works with a shovel, and the second pulls the bush at an angle. You shouldn’t just cut down the bush - after a while new shoots will definitely appear.

As for dead wood (these are trees and shrubs, as well as last year’s tough grass - all together this represents sharp, prickly jungle). All this can be cut down and uprooted without hindrance.

By the way, now you can call a car or carriage for the first time to remove garbage - by this time enough has already accumulated to load the car for at least one “trip” to the landfill. After this, you will immediately notice how much work you have already done.

Removing unnecessary trees

There is no need to remove all the trees that grow on the site. Some of them, of course, are time to be removed, but some can become a worthy decoration of the area. They can be left at least so that there is at least some shade where you can take a break from direct sunlight.

Having decided on future fate trees on the site, you can start felling the “extra” trees.

1. Thin trees. You can get rid of them with a regular axe.
2. Thick trees. You can get rid of them using a saw - either conventional or electric (the latter, of course, is preferable, as it saves time and effort).
3. Tall trees. Here it is better to turn to professionals, since felling these trees yourself can be dangerous.
4. Kick it. To make it easier to uproot stumps, their height should be no more than one meter.
5. Felled trees. If you are planning to build a house or cottage on the site, then the trees can be used for firewood: for the stove, for the fireplace, for the barbecue. In order not to pay extra for garbage removal, trees can be offered to people who have stove heating - they certainly will not refuse such generous help.
6. Leaves from trees. It is not at all necessary to throw them away - they can be dried and burned, and then fertilize the earth with these ashes.

Stump uprooting

On the site there may be old stumps or young ones that remained after you uprooted the trees. Young stumps will initially sprout new growth, then mold, moss, fungi, and various insects can settle there, so it’s still better to get rid of the stumps right away.

There are several ways to get rid of stumps.

1. Manually. This is not only the cheapest method, but also the safest for external environment. In order to uproot a stump there is no need for any kind of special equipment– the stump must first be dug up, and the roots must be taken out from under the ground and chopped off. After this, shake the stump as best as possible and manually pull it out of the ground. If roots remain, you can also pull them out manually. It is better if several people help rock the stump.
2. Using a tractor. Most quick way getting rid of stumps. It is enough to dig around the stump a little, throw a winch on it, the other end of which is attached to the tractor, and give it a good “pull.” This method is expensive, but it is worth it if you need to get rid of a large number of stumps.
3. Using a crusher. This is the safest method, as it will not cause damage to the landscape near the growing the right trees and even standing buildings. The disadvantage of this method is shallow processing, which leaves some of the roots in the ground.
4. With the help of chemistry. Quite a simple and inexpensive method. It is necessary to drill holes in the stump using an electric drill (as deep as possible) and pour wet saltpeter into them. Required condition– insulation of the stump so that the saltpeter is not washed away by rain. After about a year, saltpeter saturates the stump to the very roots. After this, all that remains is to set fire to the stump - it burns out completely. Plants can be planted in this place no earlier than after 12 months. This method has one drawback - it is very long and is not suitable for those who need to develop a site as quickly as possible.
5. With the help of mushrooms. The most exotic method, suitable for those stumps that are located in the shade. Mushrooms, as is known, in the course of their life activity, are capable of destroying wood. If you sow honey mushrooms on a stump, the stump will soon collapse, but until this happens, you will always have tasty and fresh honey mushrooms for many years.

Digging and loosening the soil

Now, after not a single blade of grass remains in the once overgrown area, it’s time to dig up the ground and start loosening the soil.

1. They dig up the earth with a shovel: they turn the earth over, break up clods of earth, and feed it with organic fertilizers.
2. They loosen the soil with a pitchfork - this way, all the lumps are leveled, roots and debris that were not noticed earlier are removed.
3. If the soil is good, then you can dig it only once to the depth of one spade bayonet, but if not, you will have to work hard and do a two-tier dig.

Delivery of black soil

In the event that the soil turned out to be very “unimportant” - clayey, saline or poor in nutrients (its analysis today can be ordered without any problems in special geo-laboratories), and you planned to engage in farming, then it would be best to bring high-quality soil to the site. black soil

Leveling the area

The dug up area or the area to which black soil was brought must be leveled. It is best to do this with a rake, this way you can finally “smooth” the ground by removing stones and roots from it that were previously invisible. In addition, with the help of this maneuver you can make sure that the ground level on the site is the same everywhere.

If you brought chernozem, you need to ensure that it does not mix with bottom layer soil.

Remember that the fertile soil layer must be at least twenty centimeters.

Fertilizer application

After the plot of land has been leveled, it needs to be fertilized - to do this, use a lawn roller (in the absence of such a tool, you can simply trample the ground a little with your feet), sprinkle granular fertilizer on top and again mix the soil using a rake.

Fallow"

If you did everything correctly, then your area resembles dough prepared for baking. However, the soil, like the dough, must be allowed to rest before sowing. The land must remain “fallow” for at least two months. And ideally – a year.

During this time that you do not touch the earth, insects will perform their function - they will enrich the soil, and small animals and birds will do theirs - rid the earth of the most harmful insects.

To prevent the site from falling into disrepair, it is necessary to weed it from time to time to remove weeds - they can be pulled out by hand or with a hoe. Don’t forget to collect all the weeds and loosen the soil after this!

At this point, the development of the overgrown area is completed. We hope everything worked out for you!

from 1.5 rubles per m2

Employees of the "Gardener-VIP" complex clearing of summer cottages in Moscow, the Moscow region. Our company offers services for clearing the site of trees and shrubs, small forests, grass thickets, garbage collection, as well as the service of uprooting stumps. We do seasonal cleaning of the site. Cleaning country house. Plowing the land. Assistance in the development of new areas. Clearing the site for construction.

Clearing a site for construction

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Having purchased a plot of land, or received it as an inheritance, especially if these are new plots in SNT and DNT. Many people are faced with the need to simply clear the area of ​​unnecessary wild vegetation, thin out the trees and take out what has been cut down or fallen, uproot and level the area. Also remove debris left by construction workers.

What is included in site clearance

Into the clearing garden plot includes cutting grass, cutting down old and broken trees, cutting down bushes, collecting grass and leaves. Site cleaning also includes uprooting stumps and leveling the ground. Electricity on the site is not necessary, since all work is carried out with gasoline tools. If necessary, we carry out dismantling (demolition) of dilapidated or unnecessary buildings (houses, sheds, rickety bathhouses) buildings are calculated based on the volume of garbage. When cleaning a site, in most cases we organize waste removal in containers of various sizes.

Price for site clearing

How is the price for clearing a site determined?

Pricing is directly affected by the height, density and number of plantings on the site that need to be removed (scope of work), buildings that need to be demolished (if any), the use of special equipment, its dimensions, and garbage removal. The method that can be used to eliminate unnecessary trees is affected. Outside the city, in private areas, if there are no buildings nearby, then felling is used. If there are buildings nearby, then you need to cut it down in parts, in which the removed fragments are lowered down on safety cables - this is a more expensive method.

Seasonal site cleaning service

In the summer, care for flower beds, lawns, and gardens is necessary. Pruning trees, bushes, sweeping the area. Wash off dirt, sand, you can whitewash curbs and tree trunks.

In autumn, remove fallen leaves, sticks, and debris. Necessary

In winter, clear the area of ​​snow debris, clean the roofs, and remove icicles. In winter, the surface must be treated to prevent icing with special solutions. In the spring, carry out a comprehensive cleaning of the site, remove garbage after the winter period, and remove it off site.

Why is it worth ordering site clearing from our company?

Affordable prices;

We work under a contract;

Guarantee for the work done;

Flexible system of discounts;

Efficiency (engineer dispatch on the same day of application);

Discount for pensioners 10%;

Completion of work exactly on time:

We work by cash and non-cash payments:

We use our equipment to perform complex work;

Experienced employees and proprietary tools

Plowing the site

After comprehensive cleaning of the site, we suggest plowing the land. Plowing the land is necessary for sowing grains and seeds vegetable crops, potatoes, etc. Plowing the soil saturates the soil with oxygen, nutrients, helps get rid of weeds. If it is necessary to remove small irregularities from the surface, plowing the area is also necessary. After plowing, cultivation is usually done, the surface is finished with a rake and the output is smooth and beautiful plot. The RusDirect company provides services for professional plowing and cultivation of land in summer cottages in the Moscow region. Our specialists carry out work with a walk-behind tractor or a walk-behind tractor.

Price for plowing land
plowing

Pricing is directly affected by the condition of the soil and the size of the cultivated area. And also if there is a need to carry out additional work- uprooting stumps, removing stones, grass and wood waste, leveling the area. In any case, the final price for services is determined in individually. Our engineers will advise you in detail and calculate the exact price.

How to plow

To plow the land we use different types equipment (walk-behind tractor, tractor) and various mounted plows. The RusDirect company offers our customers moldboard-less and moldboard plowing using various types plows. We select equipment depending on the customer’s wishes, and also offer different methods of plowing the land depending on the type and condition of the soil. In addition to deep tillage using plows, we will also offer you surface tillage - discing (or harrowing).

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How deep should you plow?

The goal when plowing is to loosen the top fertile layer of soil and cut off the roots of the weeds located in it. In this case, there is absolutely no need to raise the underlying layers of soil. Therefore, to level the area and sow the lawn, 15 centimeters of plowing will be enough.

What is better to plow the plot - with a tractor or walk-behind tractor?

First of all, you need to consider the size of the area. If there are more than 10 acres, then it is better to plow with a tractor. In this case the price will be more favorable. A walk-behind tractor can easily handle a plot of up to 10 acres. Any modern walk-behind tractor or walk-behind tractor can plow the ground to a depth of 15 or even 20 centimeters. We use equipment with active rototillers, for us simple task- plowing to a depth of 15-20cm.

What is a rototiller for plowing

The active rototiller rotates independently of the rotation of the equipment wheels. This allows her to develop great force and plow even virgin lands.

What is disking

Disking (harrowing) is, in contrast to plowing, shallow cultivation of the land. Disking is carried out using disc harrows and is carried out if there is a high risk of soil erosion, as well as in the case of a small thickness of the fertile layer. Disking is also done to loosen the soil after plowing. The cost of soil disking is lower than plowing due to lower requirements for traction and equipment models. To know approximate cost You can disk on the pages of our website. For an accurate calculation for your property, please call the contact numbers.

When to plow

The best time for this is, of course, from spring to autumn, in dry weather, when the air temperature at night is above +5.