What kind of wood to make a table and book from? DIY book table How to assemble a book table

Perfect option for beginners - try to make a book-table with your own hands to understand whether it’s worth getting involved with self-production furniture. The item is very useful and necessary in the house. You can make it for yourself or as a gift to someone. On the other hand, it is very easy to assemble. To confirm this, the article contains do-it-yourself book-table drawings and diagrams with detailed description and instructions.

What is a do-it-yourself book-table, drawings and diagrams of the classic model

There are many options for internal design.

In fact, a book table is a narrow cabinet that folds out into a full-fledged table. The sides of the cabinet are hanging tabletops. When unfolded, they rest on the legs retracted from the center. But the design of the legs may differ.

In the classic version, there is one leg on each of the two sides, which extends diagonally towards the center.


There are other options when the legs are folded in half and retracted on each side (that is, there are four of them). But essentially the principle is the same.

There is a base, the cabinet itself with hanging countertops.


There are legs that are attached from the inside to the base.


All movable elements (hanging tabletops and retractable legs) are attached to the base cabinet with piano hinges.


How to make a table-book with your own hands? Material calculation

The standard height for any table is 750 mm. The remaining dimensions of the book-table may vary, depending on the internal design.

In our version, the width of the base cabinet cannot be less than 250 mm, since the legs need to be folded somewhere. The legs can be flat - then the base can be made narrower, if compact dimensions are so important.

Let's take calculations for a model with dimensions of 750x800x250 mm when folded and 750x800x1650 mm when unfolded.


The table automatically calculates the squaring of the material (chipboard) and edges for edging visible sides details. Ideally, this could be PVC with a thickness of 1-2 mm. But you can also roll it up with melamine tape manually, using an iron - it will be cheaper. In both cases, the edge must be taken with a reserve, for this model - 30 m.p.

If you lay out the parts on a sheet of chipboard 2440x1830 for cutting, you will see the consumption.


In total, it will take half a sheet of laminated chipboard and 30 meters of edges (PVC or melamine) to make a table-book with your own hands.

What else will you need to make a table-book with your own hands?

All modern cabinet furniture is assembled for confirmation.

Thrust bearings are screwed to the sidewalls with emphasis on the floor (usually with self-tapping screws).

You will also need piano hinges for fastening the table tops. The legs can also be attached with card loops. Both hinges are also screwed onto self-tapping screws.

The central cover can be fastened through, also on confirmations. But usually, holes in the countertop are not desirable. Therefore, it is better to fix it on furniture corners by screwing it from the inside with self-tapping screws.

Now let’s calculate how much it will take to make a book-table with your own hands.

The number of confirmations is calculated by the number of holes.


Total - 6 pieces for each leg and 4 for the central part, 16 pieces.

You will need 4 thrust bearings for the central cabinet and 1 piece for each leg - 6 pieces.

8 pieces of corners will be enough, 4 pieces on each side of the cabinet.

Long piano loops - 6 pieces, if without card loops.

And about 50 self-tapping screws 3x16 mm.

Now you can enter all the data into a table, enter current prices and calculate expenses.


Application: drilling parts of a book table


Table-book – practical furniture, which when folded takes up minimal space, is easy to carry, and after simple manipulations turns into a full-fledged table. Even a craftsman without much experience can make furniture such as a book-table with his own hands. Just a few hours of work, and a new piece of furniture will appear in the house.

Table-book design options

A book-table is a transformable furniture; its tabletop consists of 3 parts. The central one is motionless, and the 2 side ones can be lowered and raised.

When unfolded, the moving parts of the tabletop (wings) rest on the legs; when folded, the legs are retracted under the central part of the tabletop and covered on the sides. There are various design modifications, for example, legs can be made on wheels, the sides can be solid, closed, or made in the form of a frame made of timber. You can increase the length of the central part of the tabletop and internal space place several shelves, drawers, set up a minibar or use it to store folding chairs. And vice versa, there is a model of a particularly thin table-book, without a middle part. When such a table is not needed, it can be put under the bed or in the gap between the wall or other furniture.

As for the design of the legs of a classic book table, there are 2 main options:

  • each wing of the tabletop rests on 1 leg, the legs of the legs (the element connecting the leg to the sidewall) are attached to different sides of the opposite sidewalls, and when unfolded are located diagonally;
  • each wing rests on 2 legs, the drawers are attached to both sides of the sides and are located parallel to the long edges of the table.

The second option is more stable, but its production increases the consumption of materials, and the work will take a little more time and effort.

Work order

Before starting work, you need to decide on the design. There are many options, diagrams, drawings, photos can serve as a source of ideas finished products, of which there are many on the Internet. It's better for a beginner to choose simplest option without internal filling, and more experienced master can assemble a book-table with drawers, shelves (table-stand). The wings are usually made rectangular, but if you order sawing in a workshop, they can be rounded.

In the form of a book, you can make either a large dining table or a coffee table, the design and assembly principle are the same, only the dimensions will be different.

You should also consider what materials the table will be made from. The classic option is laminated chipboard; all parts can be made from it. Other options are possible:

  • tabletops, sides, stiffeners and drawers are made of chipboard, and legs are made of timber;
  • legs and racks along the edges of the sidewalls made of profile steel pipe, wheels are attached to the bottom ( a good option for mobile coffee table);
  • The central frame, legs and drawers are metal, and the tabletop is made of impact-resistant glass with safety edge treatment.

First you need to sketch a drawing, a sketch of the future table, on its basis the drawings necessary for making a book-table with your own hands are drawn up. This can be done manually or using computer program, you can also take ready-made drawings as a basis and, if desired, substitute your own dimensions or make changes in accordance with the features of the selected model. Based on the drawings, a detailing sheet, a cutting sheet are drawn up, and then the cutting itself is carried out.

Detailing and components

Let's look at how to make a book table with your own hands using the example of a table made of chipboard without internal filling, with 2 pairs of legs on wheels, made in the form of narrow boxes.

A 16 mm thick chipboard sheet is sawn into the following parts:

  1. Table top wings – 2 pcs., 800x600 mm.
  2. central part countertops – 1 piece, 800x250 mm.
  3. Sidewalls (central supports) – 2 pcs., 724x250 mm.
  4. Central stiffeners – 3 pcs., 708x210 mm.
  5. Vertical strips (racks) of leg boxes – 8 pcs., 644x60.
  6. Horizontal (overhead) strips for leg boxes – 8 pcs., 340x60 mm.
  7. Stiffening ribs for leg boxes – 4 pcs., 308x110mm.

Experts recommend using thick metal butterfly hinges instead of traditional piano hinges; they are more rigid and reliable. It is more convenient to make the legs on wheels only if you implement your project, carry out drawings and detailing yourself, do not forget to take into account the height of the wheels when calculating the height of the legs.

You will also need:

  • butterfly loops 45 mm long – 18 pcs.;
  • corners – 4 pcs.;
  • linear caster wheels 29 mm high – 8 pcs.;
  • clamps (holders) for the upper wheels of the legs – 4 pcs.;
  • adjustable supports or thrust bearings – 4 pcs.;
  • self-tapping screws 4x16 - 100 pcs., confirmations 75x5 and plugs for them in the color of the chipboard - 45 pcs.;
  • edge for sealing open cuts of laminated chipboard - about 30 m.

After cutting, the parts are edged.

Instead of the usual flat edge, you can run an edge profile along the edge of the tabletop.

Assembly order

Central part of the table:

  1. At a distance of 3 cm from the edges of the central part of the tabletop, they are attached to it using the corners of the sidewall.
  2. The sidewalls are connected to each other by stiffening ribs using confirmations. The lower stiffening rib (bottom) is attached parallel to the tabletop at some distance from the floor, the remaining 2 are directly above the bottom and under the tabletop, perpendicular to them.
  3. Adjustable supports or thrust bearings are attached to the bottom of the sidewalls (if supports are not used, the height of the sidewalls must be increased).

Legs (4 pieces)

  1. The box is being assembled. Its height is the sum of the height of the racks plus the double thickness of the overhead strips plus the height of the two wheels.
  2. Between the racks, at an equal distance from the overhead strips, a stiffener is mounted perpendicular to the ground.
  3. Loops are screwed to the racks that will face the central part of the table with self-tapping screws, 3 for each leg.
  4. Rollers are attached to the overhead strips at the top and bottom, closer to the outer edge, with self-tapping screws.

Final assembly

  1. The central part is turned over with the tabletop down, the wings are moved to the narrow part of the tabletop and fastened to it using hinges (3 for each wing).
  2. Loops attached to the legs are screwed to the sides.
  3. The legs are moved to their extreme working positions, the places where the wheels are located are marked, and in these places clamps are attached to the wings that will not allow the legs to move spontaneously.

The table is ready, all that remains is to turn it over and cover all the confirmation hats with caps.

Let's do without pretentious introductions. You have a one-room or just a small apartment. To save space, you need a table book. There is no money to buy it, and you decide to find out how to make a book table with your own hands. Actually, that’s why we wrote this article, so keep reading.

Do you know that folding table a book is an opportunity to gather many people at one table and free up space when necessary. There are many varieties of this type of furniture, and we will tell you how to make two main ones:

  1. Super thin - which can not only be used at home, but also taken on trips.
  2. Ordinary - purely for use in one place (at home or in the country).

How to make a book table out of wood - a super thin option

When folded, it takes up exactly as much space as three tabletops leaning against each other. And in length and width it is equal to half the table. So you can easily put it under the bed or tuck it between the closet and the wall.

The tabletop consists of two panels. Depending on the situation, you can expand only one part of the tabletop or all of it.

It can be made from chipboard. But since this material releases toxic substances if damaged, it is better to make the countertop from solid wood. It will be a little more expensive, but you will save your health. The best option make a table top from pine.

The legs need to be made only from natural wood. Materials such as MDF and chipboard will not provide the necessary strength.

So, how to assemble a book table? To do this you need:

1. Cut three shields of the same size. Two of them will be parts of the tabletop, and from the third you need to make legs and lapel corners. These corners will hold the legs when you open them.

You determine the dimensions of the table top and the entire table as a whole, focusing on the size of the room where the table will stand.

NOTE: if you can cut the tabletop yourself, then difficulties may arise with the legs and corners. Therefore, we recommend that you send all purchased material for cutting. The workshops will do it quickly and efficiently and won’t ask for a lot of money. In most cases, you can order cutting from the same place where you bought the wood.

2. Now that you have brought the sawn parts, you need to connect the two parts of the tabletop. Use piano hinges for this.

By the way, people complain that most piano hinges quickly become unusable, so don’t take the first ones you come across, but choose high-quality ones.

When choosing hinges, we can only advise you one thing: do not take those whose thickness is greater than the thickness of the tabletop.

3. Attach the lapel corners. Use piano hinges for this too.

4. Attach latches that will hold the corners when the table is folded or unfolded.

Like this simple instructions for assembling a table book. The advantage of such a table is that you can put it under the bed, and also take it with you to the dacha or outdoors, placing it in the trunk or on the roof of the car. After all, it does not take up much space, is thin and weighs little.

But the disadvantage is that it is not strong enough and can fall apart with average force. But when a feast gathers, anything can happen. It can only be used as dinner table for family members.

And if you like to collect big companies, we suggest you also learn how to make a regular table book.

How to make a regular book table with your own hands

Materials you will need:

  • laminated chipboard
  • several pieces of wood
  • euroscrews, piano hinges and plugs.

1. From laminated chipboard cut out three shields measuring 800x300. Two will serve as the sides of the racks, which simultaneously act as legs, and the third will be the middle part of the tabletop.

3. Cut out the shelves. There will be three of them, 760x200 in size. We remind you that you can cut all this in special workshops or where you bought the material. It’s better not to waste time and effort on this yourself.

4. Make marks on the racks or legs inside where you will attach the shelves. To ensure that the marks are level and the shelves stand up without distortion, use a level.

5. Attach shelves. This should be done in the following sequence:

  • first - top shelf
  • second – bottom shelf
  • third – central shelf

Secure the shelves with Euroscrews. Just cut out the holes for them and tighten the screws carefully so that the wood does not split.

According to the technology, this is done like this: first, holes are drilled with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the Euroscrews. And only then the screws are screwed in.

6. So, you have received the base of the table. Attach the middle tabletop to this base. Ideal option: if you install it using wooden dowels. To do this you need:

  • drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm - two each in the edges of the legs and tabletop (the depth of the hole should be 1.2 cm)
  • cut out four dowels from a piece of wood - their diameter should also be 6 mm, but their length should be 2.5 cm
  • Lubricate the holes in the legs and dowels with wood glue and insert the dowels into the holes

If they are tight, you can help yourself with light blows of the hammer - only light, so as not to break the dowels.

  • then lubricate the holes of the tabletop and install it in these dowels
  • make sure everything is level and give the glue time to dry

7. From boards measuring 30x100 (in extreme cases, you can use slats) make internal sliding racks. Vertical ones should be 78 cm long, and transverse ones should be 74 cm long.

8. Connect the resulting parts using the tenon-to-groove principle. Before doing this, do not forget to glue the tenon and groove with wood glue, and then secure it with self-tapping screws.

9. We attach the legs with the side end to the side stand. We use piano hinges for this.

10. Now attach the two parts of the tabletop. First, screw the long piano hinge to the end of the tabletop, and then to the middle part of the tabletop.

That's all. Now all you have to do is paint the table in the color that you like best or that matches your interior design.

What kind of wood to make a table and book from?

It's difficult to advise anything here, because everyone has their own taste. However, to make your choice easier, we will describe the properties of the most popular types of wood that are used for manufacturing. Based on these properties, as well as looking at photos of book tables from different materials, you will be able to determine what kind of wood to make your furniture from.

Nut

Durable, dense and strong wood. It is easy to glue and process. This wood holds screws and self-tapping screws well. It does not rot, fungi do not form on it, so walnut tables can be made specifically for the kitchen. In addition, walnut wood has a wide range of colors - so you can always choose the color that suits you.

Wenge

This is one of the most expensive and best breeds tree in the world. It has an exquisite color and a rough texture. You can hit her hard - nothing will happen to her, you can put pressure on her - she will not bend. Fungus does not form on it, and insects do not eat.

Milky oak or bleached oak

Has all the characteristics of oak. Obtained by processing chemicals, which make the fibers whiter. After this, the wood is moistened with oil and varnished.

Characteristics of wood: high strength, resistant to external influences. True, it gets dark over time.

And finally, a piece of advice: assembling the book table will go quickly and won’t take much effort if you have a diagram.

And in general, before you start searching for material, you first need to make a drawing of the table. If you can’t do it yourself, then find it on the Internet – you can download them for free.

And in order to consolidate the information received, we recommend that you watch several videos that show how to assemble a book table. That's all. See you.

Video on assembling a book table

From this article you will learn how to build a book table within a few hours.

And not the simple “book-table” that is sold in stores, but an improved one, devoid of minor and annoying shortcomings associated with the legs getting stuck when unfolding the table.

So, my story will be about how to put together such a “book”:

Below, in the pictures you see how this table was designed by me on the computer before I decided to make it.

What is the difference between my table design and those designs that are sold in stores?

At first glance, nothing! My “book table” performs the same functions as the one sold in the store.

BUT! My table, unlike the store-bought one, is made of better quality and is a pleasure to use. And all because the transformation mechanism has been slightly improved.

Now let’s take a closer look at the design of this “table-book” and pay attention to the fact that elementary and not at all expensive solutions make furniture furniture, and not firewood!

In my “table-book” design, I used ordinary “butterfly” hinges costing 5 rubles as transformation mechanisms. a piece.

This loop is quite small. Its size is only 45 mm. But at the same time, it is made of rather hard and thick metal, unlike piano hinges. You need to pay special attention to this when choosing loops.

These loops serve both for attaching the retractable legs to the table and for opening our “lid wings”.
This is the first nuance that I changed. Typically, factory models of “book” tables use a piano hinge.
The second nuance lies in the design of the retractable legs themselves, which are made in an unusual way.


At both ends of the legs I placed these “straightforward” wheels, costing 5 rubles. a piece.
Please note that the height of the wheel is 29 mm. We will need this size later in order to calculate the height of the leg.
Also pay attention to the design of the leg, which is made in the form of a narrow box, in which the top and bottom are OVERHEAD. It is important! And the racks are INSERT. And so that this “box-leg” has rigidity, I added a stiffening rib to its middle.


Now let’s look at the “table-book” upside down. It lies tabletop on the floor.

Pay attention to how the loops that hold our “swinging wings” are located. When the legs move inside the table, the wheels do not cling to the hinges, they roll smoothly without obstacles along the table surface, thereby ensuring smooth opening of the legs.
And as you remember, at the lower ends of our legs, there are also wheel supports that roll on the floor when we open or close these legs.

In this picture (without the table top) I have outlined the wheels in red ellipses. To better see where they should be.

Actually, this is the whole secret of the design, and everything else is details...

Sketch

The assembly of any furniture begins with the development of a sketch. I drew this sketch to scale. To have a complete idea of ​​what I can do.


This option suits me. And I start detailing the product.
But before we detail the product, we need to know its external dimensions and, based on this data, we can begin detailing.
After printing a sketch of the product on paper, we put down the dimensions. Next I will tell the story based on these dimensions:


From this figure we see that the table height should be standard - 750 mm.
The table width will be 800 mm. The length of the tabletop when unfolded will be 1450 mm, and when folded, such a table will take up a little more than 250 mm.

Now let's list what components it is assembled from:

  • table cover, consisting of three parts;
  • sliding legs - 4 pieces;
  • main support.

We immediately drank all the fittings that we would need to assemble the table.

1. Butterfly loops - 16 pcs.

2. Straight rollers - 8 pcs.
3. Self-tapping screws 4*16 - 100 pcs. For attaching hinges and rollers.
4. Confirmat 75*5 - 45 pcs.
5. Corners - 4 pcs. For attaching the table top to the legs.

6. Adjustable feet- 4 things. I'll tell you about them a little later.

I listed all the fittings in order to know in advance what fittings will be used and what size each element will have. This is done in order to correctly calculate the detailing for our product, and not make a mistake anywhere! You can see all sizes in the pictures.

Detailing

So, let's go. We start with the table top.


The lid of our table will have the following dimensions:

  • 800 x 600 -2 pcs. Wide lids.
  • 800 x 250 - 1 pc. Narrow lid.

OK! We sorted out the lid. Everything is simple here.
Next we must calculate the main support, not forgetting about our sliding legs.

I have indicated the following details with blue numbers:
1. Main support posts.
2. Stiffening ribs.

Calculating racks 1

We set the total height of the table to 750 mm. Therefore, having drawn such a sketch, it is clear to us that the top cover is 16 mm, and at the bottom we screwed adjustable supports, the height of which is 10 mm, to the racks.
Rack height = 750-16-10=724 mm.
The width of the support should be made the same size as the top cover itself. Take this as an axiom! Otherwise, it will turn out to be “clumsiness”. Checked! Its width will be 250 mm.

The table posts will have a size = 724 x 250 - 2 pcs.

Calculating stiffeners 2

Look at the picture. I decided to indent the racks, from the edge of the tabletop inward by 30 mm. How difficult it was to express the thought: o) I still hope that you understood what I meant.

Therefore, the length of the ribs = 800-16-16-30-30 = 708 mm.

The width of the ribs should be such that I can fit the extendable legs into the remaining distance. Therefore, I left 70 mm on each side for this matter, and I planned to make the legs themselves 60 mm wide. I'll keep 10mm just in case. A gap never hurts.

So, the width of the stiffeners will be equal to 250-70-70 = 110 mm.

Size of stiffeners = 708 x 110 - 3 pcs.


I have already set the sizes on them. Let's see.
The total height of the leg should be 734 mm. It's clear. Let me explain. The total height of the table is 750 mm, minus the top cover 16 mm. It turns out 734 mm.
From this height we subtract the height of the two “straight” wheels 734-29-29 = 676 mm. This turned out to be the height of the chipboard structure.
I have already drawn your attention to the fact that this design has inset racks.
Therefore, we calculate the height of the racks 676-16-16 = 644 mm.
Rack size = 644*60 - 8 pcs. Because we have four legs!

Great. Now we have one question left - what size should we make the width of the legs?
To do this, I drew these drawings for you. Side view and top view. The top view shows how the leg opens and how the loop is attached to it.


As you remember, the internal distance between the posts was 708 mm.
I leave 7 mm for the hinge gap when closed. Leave 15 mm for the gap between the posts themselves.

We calculate the size of the horizontal OVERLAY:
708-7-7-15= 679
679/2=340 mm.

Width of horizontal bars:
340*60 - 8 pcs.

All we have to do is calculate the stiffener that we placed in the retractable leg. This is done very simply. We will take the same width as in the previous stiffeners - 110 mm. And the length of the rib will be equal to 340-16-16=308 mm.

Rib in extendable leg

308 x 110 -4 pcs. Four legs, four ribs!

That's all, actually. All details are ready! All that remains is to assemble everything, twist it and the table - the book will be ready!

Table assembly

1. Assemble all the legs. And we screw the loops to them.


2. Assemble the main table support. And nail it to the bottom of the leg.
My legs are 10mm high. If you purchase legs of a different size or decide not to use them at all, the size of the main legs (1) will need to be increased.


3. Turn the table upside down, bring the tabletop together, and apply and screw the hinges exactly in the middle.

4. Screw the legs onto the inverted table.

5. In those places where the legs reach their extreme position, being in the open state, I screwed these “things” to fix the leg in the extreme position.

That's all.

Detailing


1. 800 x 600
2 pcs. Wide lids
2. 800 x 250
1 PC. Narrow cover
3. 724 x 250
2 pcs. Main support struts
4. 708 x 110
3 pcs. Stiffening rib!
5. 644 x 60
8 pcs.
6. 340 x 60
8 pcs.
7. 308 x 110
4 things. Four legs - four ribs!


Cost price

Laminated chipboard 2.4 m2 (2.4*190 rub.)=456 rub.
Edge 30 m.p. (30*.1.5 rub.) = 45 rub.
Butterfly loops 16 pcs. (16*5 rubles)=80 rubles.
Straight rollers 8 pcs. 8 * 5 rubles = 40 rubles.
Self-tapping screws 4*16 100 pcs (100*0.2 rubles) =20 rubles.
Confirmat 75*5 - 45 pcs. (45*0.5 rubles) = 23 rubles.
Corners 4 pcs. 10 rub.
Adjustable supports 4 pcs. 20 rub.
Plugs 45 pcs. (45*0.1 rub.)=5 rub.
Total: 700 rub.

Let's just say, provided that two such tables come out of one sheet of laminated chipboard, it turns out that the total cost of books for two tables will be 1,400 rubles. If we order this order to be cut on the side, we will get the cost of two tables at 1,700 rubles.

What is the price for this table?
I valued it at 1600 rubles. Decide for yourself what price you will value it at.
To assemble such a table by gluing the edges onto the finished parts, you need to spend no more than 3-4 hours.

This table can also be used as a bonus for your products, if during the manufacture of some large product you will have some material left over.
This table, as I already estimated, takes up a little less than half standard sheet laminated chipboard size 3500*1750mm.

But what would happen if all the table parts were laid out on a laminated chipboard sheet measuring 3500*1750 mm.


This cutting sheet clearly shows that from one sheet of chipboard you can make two full-fledged tables and from the remaining material you can make some more shelves, stools, and other small things...

More lessons about furniture making can be found at

The table-book received its unusual name due to its design features, thanks to which it quickly folds and disassembles, turning into large table to compact and back. Such models are very popular nowadays and, due to their features, are in great demand among buyers. The convenient design of the model allows it to be used for different purposes, for example, for a large feast. After the celebration, the table can be folded and put back in place, and it does not take up much space. Manufacturers of such furniture often sell it at very high prices. You can create such a table with your own hands.

Varieties and design options for book tables

In stores you can find furniture for every taste and color, the assortment is very rich, everyone can find a model to suit their taste. Here are some popular types of design for the appearance of such a table:

  1. Standard rectangular shape.
  2. In the form of a semicircle or an elongated oval.
  3. Using shaped inserts into the body of the main part.
  4. Corner with collapsible side parts.
  5. With additional shelves in the design. It will help you free up additional space and place the necessary items at hand.
  6. Completely wooden or with glass inserts.
  7. With or without wheels.

A huge range of models, decorative images and a variety of styles will allow you to choose a table in accordance with your individual preferences. But for some reason, many still strive to make furniture with their own hands, and if they buy it, they choose thoroughly and for a very long time. There may be several reasons:

  1. The quality of the material from which the furniture is made leaves much to be desired.
  2. The price is too high. There is no desire to overpay for a fashion brand.
  3. Standard formats do not always coincide with personal preferences and room dimensions.

In any case, you can always make a table, guided by personal preferences, and decorate the interior by adding another masterpiece of your own production.

IMPORTANT! The model, created by yourself, will correspond to all the necessary parameters of the room, and its appearance will be the result of realized creative potential. This will be a truly unique and rare thing, which will lead to many pleasant meetings.

What you need to make a table-book with your own hands

If you have seriously decided to start making homemade table, then, in addition to desire, you will first of all need tools and materials for the work. Of course, the choice depends on how much you plan to spend, the intended design and the service life of the future book-table. We offer the most common option that anyone can do without any special training or special skills.

List necessary materials and tools for making:

You may also need Additional materials that are used for decoration: paint, figured wood cuttings, mosaics and much more.

ATTENTION! If you want to use the table both assembled and disassembled, then you need to create such a sketch so that even when folded, the surface of the tabletop is sufficient to perform the necessary work.

Once you have everything prepared, you can begin the creative process.

DIY book-table: drawing and stages of work

First you need to think through the drawing and draw the diagram on graph paper. If necessary, at this stage you can make corrections and think through all the details down to the smallest detail. We suggest using ready-made plan drawing for the classic version of the table:

  1. Decide on the place where you will place the future product and take measurements so that the dimensions fit perfectly into the interior and do not interfere with surrounding objects.
  2. Transfer the image taking into account the width and length of the main and side parts.
  3. Also consider the height and reflect this in your plan.
  4. Specify the location of attachment of the legs and side parts and use symbols to reflect this in the drawing.

Table-book drawing

After constructing the diagram, you can begin to work, finding your bearings and constantly checking your sketch to avoid errors in the design:

  1. We cut out the central cover onto the base of the table.
  2. We attach two side parts to the center on hinges so that they fall freely.
  3. To fix the furniture, it is necessary to make a central frame and stiffening ribs. For this purpose, bars knocked together along the perimeter of the central part will serve.
  4. Stiffening ribs are attached to the side parts; they will serve as a support when disassembled.
  5. Holes are made on the ribs and wheels are attached for ease of transportation.

The new table is ready for use. Now you have what you wanted. But this is not the limit of possibilities. Having learned to do classic version, try to create a more advanced model. Don't be afraid to experiment, this will teach you how to create masterpieces and avoid beginner mistakes.