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The technology of pouring monolithic concrete foundations is in demand in private construction; the main advantage is the possibility of obtaining reliable design even when doing the work yourself. The requirements for the mortar, reinforced frame and other materials used are high; up to 30% of the budget is spent on laying this part of the building. The only way saving is pouring the foundation with your own hands, without or with minimal involvement of specialists. In most cases, the tape type is chosen.

The main nuance of the technology is the continuity of the process; the structure is poured into a single monolith. This and the need for the most homogeneous solution leads to the need to use special equipment. Manual mixing is not allowed; it is almost impossible to prepare high-quality concrete in a volume of 4-6 m3 yourself. The most popular device is a concrete mixer with a bowl capacity of at least 60 liters; on average, mixing one portion takes 5 minutes (provided the components are properly prepared).

When working with ready-made ready-mix mixtures, two types of machines are used: a mixer or a concrete pump. The first is used when pouring a large foundation, prerequisite is the organization of access to the formwork and the preparation of chutes for supply. The more supply points, the easier it is to distribute the solution inside. The services of a concrete pump are required in the absence of an appropriate entrance; this special equipment is considered the most convenient due to its long hose (up to 50 m). The disadvantages include increased costs; its one-time rental costs 15,000-20,000 rubles.

Next comes equipment for uniform distribution of concrete in the formwork, for example, deep vibrators. Their main purpose is to expel excess air from the solution and compact it. Renting is inexpensive (500-750 rubles per day), the use is considered justified (the characteristics of concrete correspond to its strength class, the reliability and durability of the structure increases). If this is not possible, air must be expelled manually - with a shovel or a special stick.

You will also need: a hook or a construction gun for tying the frame, formwork ( best surface obtained by using boards made of moisture-resistant plywood or plastic), spacers, plastic pipes for filling holes for future communications, a wheelbarrow for transporting mortar, a trowel for leveling the top layer of the foundation. Soil analysis and calculation of the amount of building materials and reinforcement are carried out in advance. When planning deadlines, it is taken into account that the majority of labor costs fall on excavation, special equipment can also be used to dig deep trenches and remove soil.

Step-by-step instructions for concreting the base

The standard guide includes the following steps:

1. Preparatory: clearing the area of ​​debris, applying markings. Particular attention is paid to angles, diagonal deviations are checked and eliminated.

2. Excavation work. The depth of the trench depends on the soil parameters, usually it varies from 0.5 to 1 m, the width is selected at 20 cm more sizes tapes. At the end of digging, the bottom is checked for evenness; level deviations are unacceptable.

3. Formation of the pillow: at least 15 cm of sand and 10 cm of crushed stone are poured in layers and compacted. The main purpose of these layers is to reduce the load from soil movements on the lower base of the foundation; in problem areas, their thickness is increased. In some cases, a layer is laid on top of carefully compacted crushed stone roll waterproofing, alternative option is the impregnation of screenings with bitumen. If there is a high risk of displacement, it is recommended to fill the top layer of the cushion with thin concrete (up to 10 cm).

4. Preparation and installation of formwork panels. At this stage, in addition to laying holes for communications, it is important to check and mark the level inside future design. To avoid backfilling with earth, the shields are made above the zero mark by at least 30 cm, and to simplify the procedure for removing them, they are lubricated with oil. All elements are securely fixed, the angles are checked again.

5. Frame assembly. The reinforcement scheme is selected based on the size of the foundation, the cross-section of the rods depends on the purpose of the building - for residential buildings the minimum for longitudinal rows is 12 mm, for baths - 10. The requirements for vertical and transverse ones are weaker; the use of rods with a diameter of 6 to 10 mm is allowed. It is not recommended to use welding to connect joints; for these purposes you will need plastic clamps or tie wire. The minimum number of longitudinal rows in a standard shallow foundation is 2; if the height of the structure is exceeded, they are increased (vertical placement interval is 70-80 cm). To prevent contact of the lower part with the pillow, pieces of brick or special plastic molds are placed under the rods.

6. Mixing in a concrete mixer. The ratio of binder to sand cannot be more than 1:3; the exact proportions are selected according to the required grade of concrete and type of building (from M200 and above). All components are prepared in advance; the permissible break between mixing new portions is 2 hours. The foundation must be poured in one day; if this condition cannot be met, a ready-made composition is ordered.

7. Distribution of the mixture in the formwork: in layers of 20 cm, with air forced out with a hoe, stick or using vibration equipment or piercing with reinforcement. The top layer is leveled with a trowel.

8. Curing of concrete in formwork with mandatory moisture maintenance and covering with film. The shields are removed after 1-2 weeks, and it is allowed to proceed to the next stage no earlier than after a month.

The given guide can be used for pouring a slab-type foundation, in this case the soil is removed along the entire perimeter of the building, the cushion, reinforced frame and concrete layer are placed over its entire area.

When mixing it yourself, it is impossible to pour the solution in one layer; it is distributed into squares. Materials and work are more expensive; this option is used when laying the slab shallowly or building a house with a basement is permissible.

What factors are taken into account when laying the foundation?

The process becomes more complicated when planning a basement, constructing an extension to an existing building, conducting construction on difficult soils, or the need to replace or restore a structure. The foundation is laid to a depth of 2-2.2 m in the case of a cellar; for buildings with basement areas, the total height of the tape is at least half a floor. A foundation with a basement for a house is more difficult to reinforce and fill; the cost of building materials and the effort to dig trenches or a foundation pit increase significantly; when designing, it is worth thinking about the feasibility of such a solution. An alternative is to lay the walls of the cellar from blocks, but this design is not suitable for all types of soil.

If it is necessary to lay a new foundation under an already operating building (old, or without tape under internal walls) adhere to following diagram actions: excavating walls → clearing surfaces and corners, removing old concrete → strengthening the reinforced frame by anchoring or tying to old rods → installing formwork → concreting. Replacement is carried out in separate segments up to 2 m wide, dismantling is carried out in one section, leaving a gap for waterproofing the top layer. When bookmarking under the old wooden house The walls are slightly lifted with jacks, starting from the most sagging corner.

When pouring tape for an extension or if there is no tape under the internal load-bearing walls a trench is dug with a depth no less than that of the monolith already in use. A properly executed connection is impossible without anchoring. For this purpose, a hole for reinforcement with a depth of at least 25 cm is drilled in the foundation wall, and it is deepened to the same distance into the new foundation. The brand of concrete used and the width of the tape are not lower than the old one.

How to properly pour a foundation: tips and tricks

To speed up the process, all proportions should be transferred to buckets. The recommended ratio of components is 1:3:5. In recalculation for the M250 brand, one 50 kg bag of M400 Portland cement requires 5 buckets of sand, 12 crushed stone and 3.5 liters of water. These proportions are indicated for a measuring container of 10 liters; checking the weight of the filler on site is mandatory.

Violations of technology and actions that complicate the process include:

• Digging trenches in advance, when leaving them on long time the edges crumble, the markings get lost, and moisture accumulates at the bottom.
• Moisten the sand for the cushion before pouring it into the pit, otherwise the bottom will wash out.
• Construction of a foundation for an extension to a house without a rigid connection or laying an expansion joint.
• Exceeding the W/C ratio, using stale binder, lack of a concrete mixer.
• Welding reinforcement in the frame (the seams are susceptible to corrosion and are inferior in reliability to wire), ignoring the requirements for the arrangement of rods.

To make the foundation correctly, you need to carefully study the options for construction types and their features. The construction of the underground part is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

• economic expediency;
• reliability;
• strength;
• durability;
• sustainability.

Before starting construction work, a soil study should be carried out. To choose from the right type reasons influence total weight houses, soil strength and groundwater levels. A foundation that is carefully made and built in compliance with technology will last a long time and will not cause problems during operation.

Preparatory stage

It’s worth starting with pits or drilling. The main goal of this activity is to find out what soils are located on the site, as well as to find out the level of groundwater. The foundation must be laid in compliance with the rule: the mark of the sole must be at least 50 cm above the level of the water horizon.

How to do soil testing correctly? Two methods are used for this:

• excerpts of pits (deep holes, dimensions in plan are usually 1x2 m);
• manual drilling.

In the first case, the soil on the walls of the pit is examined. They also check to see if water has come from the bottom. In the second option, the soil on the tool blades is examined.

Once you have determined what kind of soil is on the site, you will need to find its strength indicators. This can be done using special tables.

The cost of laying the foundation for a house can be up to 30% of the estimate for the entire building. To avoid overspending, you need to perform a calculation that will allow you to find optimal parameters designs that will simultaneously guarantee minimum costs, strength and reliability. For your convenience, you can use online payment.

Types of foundations

Building a foundation with your own hands involves the use of several technologies:

• ribbon;
• combined options.

Columnar supports have a low load-bearing capacity. It is possible to install monolithic pillars or assemble them into compact concrete blocks. Both options are great for DIY projects.

There are three types of pile foundation for a house:

• driven (not recommended for private buildings due to the need to attract equipment);
• (suitable for the construction of brick or concrete house);
• (ideal for light wooden buildings).

Piles make it possible to reduce the amount of excavation work. There is no need to dig trenches or pits, remove a large number of soil outside the site. Thanks to this quality, the construction of this type of foundation is very economical choice. The main disadvantage will be the impossibility of equipping a basement or underground for engineering communications. In this case, the base of the building is covered with decorative materials.

Another advantage of piles is the possibility of using them in wetlands. Even if the groundwater level is located close to the ground surface, the supports provide the necessary load-bearing capacity.

The next option is tape. It can be made monolithic or from blocks. The second option is rational to use for mass construction. Strip foundations are:

• recessed (for buildings with a basement, brick and concrete structures);
• (for wooden and frame houses);
• not buried (technology of pouring the foundation under small buildings on a solid foundation).

Before making the tape, it is worth checking the groundwater level and compliance with the rule that the sole cannot be closer than 50 cm to the horizon groundwater. Otherwise, there is a high probability of basement flooding, reducing bearing capacity foundation and destruction of materials of the supporting part of the building.

What to do with high groundwater level? If the structure is made independently from brick or stone, screw piles will not be suitable, and for drilled ones it will be necessary to lower the water level. Great option there will be filling. In this case, a non-recessed or slightly recessed base is made. The thickness of the slab is determined depending on the load, on average 300-400 mm.

How to pour a foundation for a house

Monolithic foundation type is the best option for private housing construction. In this case, laying can significantly save on transportation and installation of structures. There is no need to hire a crane to install elements in the designed position or a KamAZ truck to transport concrete blocks and slabs.

Monolithic foundations can be made from factory-made concrete or you can mix the solution yourself using a concrete mixer. The first option is recommended. The fact is that it is very difficult to strictly observe the proportions of the composition in artisanal conditions. For factory-mixed concrete, such a guarantor will be a passport, which indicates the verified indicators of the material.

To make the material yourself, you will need to prepare clean water, cement, sand and crushed stone (or gravel). They are mixed with each other strictly observing proportions, which depend on what grade of concrete needs to be obtained. If you add a little more sand or crushed stone to the composition than required, the strength of the supporting part of the building will suffer.

To properly pour the foundation, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of concreting:

• Concrete must be poured in one go at time intervals of up to 1.5 hours. If you take long breaks in work, the mortar sets and concreting joints form, which weaken the structure. The technology allows making horizontal seams if absolutely necessary. It is unacceptable to install vertical seams on a monolithic foundation, since in this case the support of the house will not be able to resist soil deformations.
• The concrete class is selected depending on the type of supporting part. For columnar or pile foundation Class B 15 is sufficient. For tape you need grades from B 15 to B 22.5. Construction of a house foundation using slab technology requires concrete grades B 22.5 or B 25.
• After pouring, the material should gain strength. On average, this takes 28 days. Continue construction works It is possible after the structure reaches 70% brand strength.
• It is better to carry out work in warm, dry weather. The ideal average daily temperature for concrete hardening is +25°C. At temperatures below +5°C the material practically does not harden. For normal hardening in this case, special additives and heating are used.
• The concrete must be maintained within 1-2 weeks after pouring. It involves wetting the surface with water.
• To mix the mixture yourself, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone (gravel) and pure water. The proportions depend on the strength class. The material is delivered from the factory using a concrete mixer truck - it allows you to extend the life of the solution and deliver it over relatively long distances.

How to pour the foundation correctly? In general, work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of formwork and reinforcement cage;
2. styling waterproofing material into the formwork;
3. pouring concrete;
4. its compaction by vibration or bayonet;
5. curing;
6. stripping works (if necessary).

To quickly complete the work, it is recommended to order a concrete pump together with a concrete mixer. Concrete manufacturers are usually willing to provide this technique. In this case, it is necessary to use a concrete mixture of grades P3 or P4 in terms of mobility. Otherwise, the equipment breaks down.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring a strip foundation

Concreting is considered using the example of a monolithic tape. To erect the supporting part of the structure, construction is necessary. To do this, use cast-offs and construction cord. You need to show the edges of the tape.

After marking, the soil is excavated. If there is no basement, it is enough to dig a trench. At the bottom you need to complete sand cushion. It performs several functions:

• ground leveling;
• prevention of frost heaving;

Next stage - . For this purpose, the material included in the estimate is used: boards (removable type) or polystyrene foam (non-removable). The second option serves not only as a form for pouring concrete, but also as insulation of the underground part of the building. When installing the formwork, I raise the base to the desired height.

The most common material for building a foundation is reinforced concrete. The optimal structure in terms of labor intensity and cost is a structure made of a monolith. This method avoids the need for lifting equipment, but requires strict adherence to technology. Pouring the foundation with your own hands should begin only after a detailed study of the stages of the process.

The design and construction of the supporting part of a building begins with a study of the soil characteristics. There are two options for performing this task:

• contacting a specialized company that will perform a full geological study with laboratory tests;
• self-study using test pits or hand drilling.

The first option will allow you to determine the strength characteristics of the soil most accurately. Before pouring the foundation multi-storey building this event is held in mandatory. For buildings with a low degree of responsibility and private buildings, you can study the soil visually using GOST 25100-2011 “Soils. Classification"" determine its type. Based on which group the base belongs to, its approximate strength is assigned. The method does not give high precision, but can be used to save funds.

Marking axes and dimensions of the structure

An important stage that affects all other building structures. If you make a mistake in marking the foundation, the distance between the walls will change. This is especially critical if prefabricated elements are used for walls and ceilings. Marking is carried out correctly using the following technology:

1. removal of the fertile soil layer, which is from 30 cm;
2. designation of the first side of the house (most often marked parallel to the front boundary of the site or fence);
3. then mark the points on the first side, which will be the corners of the house;
4. From the marks, right angles are built using the Egyptian triangle method; all walls and corners of the building are marked using the same method.

Marking the foundation using cast-offs.

Marking the foundation can be done using pegs or full cast-off material made from vertical racks and horizontal jumpers. The elements are installed at a certain distance from the axes of the building so that they do not interfere with the work when excavating trenches or pits. On wooden markings after completion of the excavation work, secure a thread or cord that will mark the contours supporting structure Houses.

It is important to control the following points related to geometry:

• compliance of the design lengths of the sides with the actual ones;
• equality of diagonals of structures having a rectangular or rectangular plan square shape(deviation of no more than 20 mm is allowed), the coincidence of the diagonals indicates that all angles of the rectangle are equal to 90°.

Development of the soil and laying of the cushion

The most difficult excavation work is if you fill the foundation yourself using tape technology. To dig a trench or pit yourself (if there is a basement), in this case you will need quite large penetrations into the ground. In this case, the following recommendations should be observed:

• The width of the trench is set to be 0.8-1 meter greater than the width of the foundation to provide access to the structure when performing waterproofing and insulation.
• It is important to correctly brace the walls of a pit or trench. If you miss this moment, filling work can become dangerous to life and health. This is especially true when constructing buried foundations. Maximum height trenches with vertical walls without reinforcement depend on the type of soil. More detailed information presented in the table below.
• It is also important to take into account the angle of internal friction of the soil (natural slope). When constructing an angle equal to this value from the bottom of the pit, it turns out minimum distance, on which it is allowed to install massive equipment or store materials.

After excavation of the pit or trenches, the need for backfilling under the base is considered. According to SP 50-101-2004, it can be made of sand (medium or coarse), sand and gravel mixture or gravel. Before pouring the foundation, it is worth laying the bedding in the following cases:

• depth below freezing in heaving soil;
• the presence of a bulk layer (it is replaced with a more durable material).

In other cases, there is no urgent need to lay the substrate. In general, bedding performs two functions:

• leveling the base under the base of the foundation;
• prevents capillary moisture from rising to the structure.

This element is necessary to remove excess moisture from the supporting part of the house. Performed even when the groundwater level is low to prevent troubles when liquid rises into the spring period or when there is a lot of precipitation. Laying work drainage pipes should be carried out in accordance with the following recommendations:

• depth relative to the base of the foundation by 30-50 cm;
• the distance from the foundation of the house is no more than 1 m;
• the slope of the pipes in one direction is assumed to be 3-4 degrees so that the liquid moves by gravity;
• To prevent silting, the crushed stone laid around the pipes is wrapped in a layer of geotextile with an overlap of 30 cm.

Formwork work

Formwork for pouring concrete according to GOST R 52085-2003 is classified according to the following criteria:

• design;
• materials;
• turnover (possibility of reuse);
• possibility of use at different ambient temperatures;
• impact on the concrete mixture.

In addition, the filling mold can be removable and. One of the most common removable options is wooden; among non-removable ones, polystyrene foam is most often used. It is also possible to manufacture from materials such as metal, plastic, foam concrete, and moisture-resistant plywood.

When installing formwork, you need to control:

• accuracy of geometric dimensions and installation;
• shield stability;
• tightness (seams no more than 2 mm).

The placement of reinforcement is necessary to increase the structure's ability to resist bending loads. Reinforcement of strip and column bases is performed with spatial frames. Meshes are used for the slab. If the structure thickness is more than 150 mm, the mesh is laid in two layers. The following are the main recommendations for reinforcement:

• calculations for a private house can be performed in a simplified form, assigning the total area of ​​the rods depending on cross section designs, minimum diameters differ for different types and the size of the foundation, so this issue requires separate consideration;
• for the manufacture of frames and meshes, reinforcement of a strength class not lower than A400 can be used, but the use of rods A500 and higher is not economically justified;
• it is important to observe the protective layers of concrete; in general, it is worth remembering the following numbers: foundations without concrete preparation - 70 mm, with concrete preparation— 40 mm;
• reinforcement should be provided in the corners; usually the pitch of transverse horizontal and vertical reinforcement is halved, and the main reinforcement is also reinforced with U or L shaped clamps.

After installing the formwork and reinforcement cage, they begin filling concrete mixture. The following are recommendations on how to properly pour a foundation for a house:

• Filling is done in one step. Breaks are allowed only during the setting period of the solution, which depends on the type of binder and weather conditions. On average, a break is allowed for 1-2 hours.
• It is best to carry out work at a temperature of 20°C. At lower values, the period of strength gain by the material increases. When the temperature rises to 30°C, the characteristics of concrete may deteriorate. It is important that there is no dry weather during pouring, since high-quality pouring requires air humidity of approximately 80%. Also, you should not do work in the rain if it started during the work process. plastic film. It is laid immediately after pouring.
• The formwork is filled so that 2-5 cm remains from the top edge of its panels to the mortar level.
• Liquid concrete is poured by moving the mixer from point to point. Pouring from one point followed by manual movement reduces the quality of the material.
• Concrete mixture cannot be dropped from a height of more than 2 m.
• After pouring, thoroughly compact the solution using deep vibrators. Such a tool provides compaction to a depth equal to 1.25 of the length of the tip. It is recommended to first pour the mixture into the formwork to a height of 60 cm, then compact it and pour another 60 cm. The operation is repeated until the design mark is reached. It is important that all stages occur before the previous layer finishes setting.

Concrete maintenance and formwork removal

Recommendations on how to properly pour the foundation for a house are not limited to laying the mixture. The process of gaining brand strength will take an average of 28 days. During the first weeks, the structure will require maintenance to prevent cracks from appearing on the surface. Its first stage is covering it with plastic film, tarpaulin or burlap, which will not allow moisture to evaporate too quickly.

• V daytime daily moisturizing is carried out every 2-3 hours;
• During the night it is enough to perform the operation 1-2 times.

Formwork according to SP 70.13330 can be removed only after the concrete has gained 70% strength. When justified, it is allowed to perform work at 50% of the brand value. The time spent on this process depends on the outside temperature. Concrete using a normally hardening binder gains the required strength at a temperature of 20°C in 5-7 days, at 10°C in 28 days, and at more low temperatures the process slows down significantly.

Read more about stripping.

backfilling

In the manufacture of tape or columnar foundation, less often slab, it is necessary to backfill the sinuses of the pit or trench after removing the formwork. It is important to observe the following principles:

• work begins only after the soil reaches optimal moisture content;
• for backfilling, soil that is denser and has better strength characteristics is used compared to the extracted soil (coarse sand is often used);
• work is done layer by layer, maximum thickness material at each stage is 30 cm;
• each layer must be compacted before laying the next one;
• The backfill material should not contain foreign components or organic inclusions.

Compliance with technology at all stages of concrete pouring will allow you to obtain reliable and robust construction, which will last for many years.

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Construction of any building, be it a garage, bathhouse or a private house involves choosing a simple foundation that is easy to do yourself. Most often, the choice falls on a strip foundation. Pouring technology strip foundation It is not particularly difficult, but it must be performed with extreme precision. Even the smallest mistake when pouring a concrete mixture can ruin all the preliminary preparatory work.

Stages of strip foundation construction

In total, the strip foundation construction technology includes 4 main stages:

1. Markings are being made for future trenches. It involves defining the boundaries of a future building. It is also important to determine the width and depth of future trenches;
2. Land works. Before starting, you need to remove the top layer of soil. The depth of the trenches to be dug depends on the type of soil. In clayey terrain, their depth can be 1.2 meters. In all other types, slopes or reinforcement with boards must be provided. Before work begins, the trenches must remain closed so that precipitation does not accumulate in them and the earth does not dry out;
3. Determination of groundwater depth. If their depth exceeds 2 m from the calculated freezing depth of the ground, then the foundation can be laid to a depth of 0.6 to 0.7 meters. Ate groundwater are too close to the surface of the earth, then the foundation must be laid 20 cm below the freezing depth. Materials for building the foundation are used depending on climatic conditions. In dry and low-moisture areas, buildings can be made using bricks or household stones. In highly moist soils, only high-strength concrete should be used, which will provide waterproofing and will not be exposed to sharp changes temperatures;
4. Selection of material for filling. By far the most common material for this is concrete. For a high-quality strip foundation, you need to use concrete of a grade of at least 200M. The most reliable and the best option Today the concrete grade is 400M. The production of monolithic strip foundations can take up to 30 days. This is due to the fact that the concrete needs to harden and gain greater strength.

Preparing to pour a strip foundation

At its core, the manufacturing technology of strip foundations is quite simple. But compared to other types of foundation, a strip foundation requires a large amount of work, and pouring it will require a large amount of material. The pouring process begins by pouring a layer of graphite or sand into pre-dug trenches, this is necessary in order to level the bottom of the trench. This procedure is repeated several times; in between, the already laid layer is thoroughly compacted and spilled with water.

The thickness of the laid layer is usually approximately one third of the thickness of the entire foundation of the house. Next, inside the formwork you need to mount metal carcass, which consists of reinforcing bars and fastened together with knitting wire. Only after this you need to start concreting the foundation.

Preparation and pouring of concrete mixture

It is quite easy to calculate the volume of concrete mixture in order to pour a monolithic strip foundation. To do this, you simply need to multiply such quantities as the perimeter of the trench, its depth and width. It is better to choose a factory-produced mixture. It correctly distributes the necessary proportions to create a solid and monolithic concrete connection. This mixture is delivered directly to the construction site, so preparatory work will have to be carried out so that transport can easily access all sides of the foundation. Such pouring will take much less time and will significantly reduce the cost of the foundation.

If you decide to prepare the concrete mixture yourself, then you need to make sure that the cement and sand are sufficient High Quality. It will also require skill, and great experience in the preparation of concrete mixture. Poor quality components can cause defects to appear, which will significantly deteriorate the quality of the strip foundation itself. The main advantage of a mixture made with one's own hands is its relative cheapness compared to a factory mixture. But at the same time the duration concrete works increases several times.

Technology and features of foundation pouring

The technology for pouring a strip foundation includes several stages that must be performed in order:

Insulation of strip foundations

Insulation of this type of foundation is extremely necessary due to the fact that concrete has good thermal conductivity. And in winter, if a normal level of thermal insulation is not provided, the cold will penetrate through the walls resting on the foundation. The technology for insulating a strip foundation involves installing warm formwork or mounting warm blind areas that will insulate the surface adjacent to the house from freezing.

You can also use thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam. This option is considered one of the best; it does not require the use of various additional material fastenings. It has such properties as solidity and absence of seams. The use of polyurethane foam helps solve the problem of not only thermal insulation, but also waterproofing.

Differences between a strip-pile foundation and a monolithic one

Strip-pile foundation is one of the types monolithic foundation. It is used for weak and loose soils, and it is also suitable for the construction of any low-rise buildings. This type of foundation can be done independently, but it does not require pouring trenches with concrete mixture.

It is designed in such a way that it transfers the main load of the building to the ground, using a foundation strip and piles, which ensure the strength of the structure during soil movement. The pile is made independently in two ways: using asbestos-cement pipes, which are filled with concrete mixture, or using the bored method. This type of foundation can be used for the construction of buildings with a basement.

The main advantages of a strip-pile foundation:

• Low price compared to a monolithic strip foundation;
• Construction can be carried out without resorting to the use of special equipment;
• It is suitable for installation on areas with varying terrain;
• Able to maintain stability when soil moves.

When making a foundation, it is important to strictly follow all technical requirements. Although pouring a monolithic strip foundation is not particularly complicated matter, if the technique is not followed, the foundation will not be able to last for many years and all the efforts put into its manufacture will be in vain. It is worth remembering that the cost of a monolithic strip foundation is quite high, so it is worth making as much effort as possible more attention and try to do everything technical requirements Right.