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The harvest at the dacha depends not only on the care of the owners of six acres. My big mistake was planting incompatible crops next to each other. I looked for the reasons for the poor development of plants in lighting and fertilizing, until I learned that the proximity of vegetables in the beds is of great importance.

This topic is related to crop rotation. I studied: in what order to plant vegetables and flowers, as well as how to properly place them in the garden bed. Some information became a revelation for me.

For example, the fight against bindweed will end in victory if marigolds are planted. The weed does not tolerate it and dies from aromatic substances released into the air.

1. Main advantage proper landing vegetable crops– protection from insects. Plants emit volatile aromatic compounds into the air that are invisible to humans. For harmful insects, this smell becomes a deterrent. When planning planting in the spring, I take this feature of plants into account. As a result, there are fewer pests on six acres; there is also no need to buy and use insecticides.
2. Green manures or plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen are good neighbors in the garden for almost any vegetable. Phacelia also drives away the weevil, and the beans slightly shade the plantings from the scorching sun.

Plant incompatibility

This rule also applies to pests. Five years ago, pepper seedlings at home became infected with aphids. We transferred the plants to the dacha and treated them with the preparation; they immediately planted them in a separate greenhouse, away from the potatoes. If they had not done so, then all representatives of the Solanaceae would be infected with aphids

I take into account the compatibility of vegetables and their ability to absorb substances from the soil.

Sometimes the neighborhood greatly depletes the land, which affects the yield of tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, and onions.

Neighborhood rules in the garden

I always pay special attention to vegetables that are easily affected by diseases and pests. For them, the presence of a good neighbor is a guarantee full development and productivity. A table will help you decide on the choice of crops for your garden beds.

Before making recommendations for each type of vegetable, I advise you to watch the video, which talks about compacting plantings and gives advice on crops, what to plant with what. garden plot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEeDNTSy1_g

Cabbage

Good neighbors of cabbage are green leafy crops. I plant peppermint along the edges of the bed, which repels the voracious caterpillar and aphids. In addition, the aromatic plant improves the taste of cabbage.

Eggplant

The southern vegetable is susceptible to attack by the Colorado potato beetle. Bush beans will repel the pest. Another protector of the blue ones is thyme. The plant emits a light aroma during the formation of flowers and after flowering.

Beans

To make the cucumbers grow, I plant beans next to them. They also help the development of corn, potatoes, and radishes. These plants especially need nitrogen released by the root system of the legume representative.

To protect the beans from harmful insects I plant basil nearby. The spicy plant does not allow the bean weevil to grow. If there is no basil, then it can be replaced with other aromatic herbs: lavender, oregano, marigold, nasturtium.

I take into account the incompatibility of beans with vegetables. Onions and their varieties: leeks, chives have a negative effect. Garlic also does not tolerate the presence of beans nearby.

Grape

Note! Do not grow onions and cabbage next to grapes.

Peas

Another supplier of nitrogen to vegetables is peas. Considering that the plant vines will provide shade, I place them on the north side, and turnips, carrots, and cucumbers are planted on the south side. Other good neighbors of peas are radishes, radishes, and leafy crops such as lettuce.

The development of peas will be inhibited by plants that secrete phytoncides: onions and garlic, as well as tomatoes with a specific aroma. I make sure there is no wormwood nearby.

Cabbage

Regular beans and celery are “friends” with cabbage, which release aromatic substances that repel the flea beetle. Dill has similar properties, the smell of which is feared by cabbage and aphids. Borage will help against snail infestation.

When planting two rows of cabbage in the garden bed, I alternate them with planting herbs. In addition to dill and celery, which repel insects, thyme, oregano, rosemary, hyssop, different kinds sage.

Important! Cabbage's unfortunate neighbor is parsley. Take this into account when drawing up your planting plan.

Potato

I usually plant 2-3 acres of potatoes per personal plot. Special plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen help the bushes, and then the tubers, grow and strengthen. These include beans, beans and phacelia. Bush beans will protect the second bread from the Colorado potato beetle.

When planting green manure over potatoes, you must not overdo it so that the neighbors grow rarely, but accurately. For 2-3 potato bushes you need one phacelia or bean bush.

Strawberry

Traditionally, in the middle of the strawberry bed, garlic and parsley grow, which become protectors of the bushes from pests, for example, from slugs.

Beetroot

Summer residents should know what to plant beets with in the garden. Practice shows perfect combination beets with potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans and spinach. The presence of other crops nearby also favors the root crop. Moreover, there is a hypothesis that beets release antibiotics into the soil, and they make carrots healthier.

Corn

Corn, which is demanding on soil fertility, will be happy to be next to beans. The work of the green manure root system to release nitrogen into the ground will be appreciated. Cucumbers will produce a good harvest if planted around uplifting corn stalks. And the cobs are formed larger than before. The enemies of corn are celery and beets.

Onions and carrots

I don’t experiment and follow the classic rule of agricultural technology for vegetable crops - I plant carrots next to the onions. Both release aromatic volatile compounds into the air that onion and carrot flies do not like.

cucumbers

Next to the greenhouse where the cucumbers grow, I plant various types of beans. Good neighbors are cabbage, garlic, radishes, celery, spinach, fennel.

Pepper

The pepper grows in a separate greenhouse, and 2-3 basil bushes will contribute to better fruit set.

Tomatoes

Greenhouse tomatoes favorably perceive the presence of carrots nearby. I plant them along the wall of the building. For 6 tomato bushes you need one root crop so that the tops do not shade the plants. During the garden season, tomatoes will bring a good harvest, and carrots will amaze you with the size of the root crop.

Zucchini

The best neighbors of zucchini: onions, garlic, legumes. Under no circumstances do I plant representatives of the Pumpkin family next to each other: squash and pumpkin, as well as cucumbers.

When drawing up an annual plan for the garden and its plantings, I follow the rules for the proximity of crops. In the spring, the diagram becomes a useful aid and significantly saves time when choosing a place for vegetables.

Proper placement of plants in beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who planted pumpkin, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful juxtaposition of vegetables in their garden beds. The table of “friends” and “enemies” of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Successful garden neighbors

Planting vegetables together not only makes full use of the available land, but also has a positive effect on the growth and productivity of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart planning of a vegetable garden and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers from their own experience.

It is known that many plants secrete chemical compounds that can either promote the growth of neighbors or suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another type, or repelling pests. Each crop has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of joint planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. By following them, a person receives the following benefits:

Each plant has different neighbors, so you need to carefully consider the layout of your garden before you start mixed planting of vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when the cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good next to tomatoes, but it’s better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with aromatic herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these fragrant plants emit a large number of phytoncides that have a good effect on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, and planting flowers next to vegetables will help attract them - they will not only be beneficial, but will also serve as decoration for the garden. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Good effect on most crops as well earthworms- they loosen the ground, increasing accessible to plants amount of oxygen. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes.. Their roots are inhabited by nodule bacteria that process nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to nearby plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, so legumes also serve good predecessor for crops that are demanding on this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that works well with many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb useful elements from the garden. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing while neighboring vegetables are still small size and do not occupy the entire garden bed.

All cultures prefer different friends - it is necessary to take into account many factors in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table for the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do this correctly, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in your garden or eliminate them altogether. Different cultures will help protect your garden from the following pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to plant friends that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are also very bad neighbors for some species that inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the harvest. The consequences of planting such “enemies” together are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough to simply plant suitable crops nearby and protect them from enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other, both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them in right time so that vegetables grown too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined in their preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter - what the plant needs amount of nutrients. The crop that needs them most is planted in the center of the planting, and less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You should never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves in one bed - one of them will definitely destroy the neighbor.

For proper cultivation vegetables, you need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties potatoes as predecessors, but does not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of him in the garden. In both small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this especially applies to beets, chard and spinach.

Vegetables grow faster in a greenhouse - this is also worth taking into account if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal directions (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown in the south sunny side greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature and make sure that none of them interferes with the other.

Planting vegetables together is a very effective and useful way , which will help to grow a good harvest even under unfavorable conditions or in a small area. Using various tables, you can easily create your own combinations suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in beds

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they demand. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.

The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early White cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

For beans the most favorable neighbors- cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Mutual assistance relationships have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in mixed culture with compatible plants it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and different types salad, Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter beds).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevines. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged kidney mite, if you plant onions between the bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soybean is friendly with all crops.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold in carnations.

Apple - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;

Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage from the gooseberry moth);

Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;

The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its fumes cultivated plants(apple tree, corn);

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.

Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;