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Most often, wooden walls are destroyed due to deformations of the base - the foundation of the house and rotting wood. They are being repaired different ways depending on the degree of destruction.

If one or two logs (the two lower crowns of the log house) have rotted, then slightly lift the crown from above, select the deformed log and replace it with a new one.

If the lower crowns are rotten, then the house is raised with jacks installed under the first crown on pads. Then the logs above those being replaced are fastened with bolts and reinforced with struts. Compressions are placed every 2...4 m along the length of the wall. Rotten crowns are replaced with new ones or brickwork. In this case, the lower surface of the lower crown is tarred and sheathed with roofing felt.

Often the walls wooden houses are covered horizontal cracks, which stretch almost along the entire length of the log. In winter, during a thaw, the water that gets into them freezes and, naturally, expands them. This cycle is repeated repeatedly, and eventually the log collapses.

In this regard, new log walls also have to be repaired. Firstly, when deep longitudinal cracks appear on the logs and the yellow-white color of the wood turns gray-blue. Various larvae and wood-eating beetles easily breed in such cracks. These walls should be sheathed with boards in order to stop their further destruction.

To do this, pre-clean the surfaces of the logs with outside from dust and dirt. Cracks are carefully treated to their entire depth and length.

Rice. 1. Methods for replacing rotten wood (logs): a - replacing small sections of logs: 1 - insert from homogeneous wood (b, c, d - dimensions in place); 2 - logs; 3 - various insert profiles; 4 - place prepared for insertion; b - replacement of large sections of logs with fastening of inserts from new homogeneous wood with a reverse tenon: 1 - logs; 2 - place of attachment of the insert; 3, 5 - half tenons with left and right cuts, respectively; 4 - new short logs made of homogeneous wood; 6 - caulk; c - replacement of large sections of logs with reinforced fastening with hidden tenons and vertical (round, square, rectangular) stands made of hard wood: 1 - half tenon (with right edge); 2 - vertical hole, consisting of two halves (for dowels - vertical bars); 3 - vertical dowel bar (round, square, rectangular); 4 - hidden spikes; 5 - insert joint; b - caulk; 7 - plug-in logs of a homogeneous type of wood; d - selection of a rotten log from the crown of a log house using wooden wedges-stops made of hard wood: 1 - location of the selected rotten log; 2 - adjacent logs of the wall frame crowns; 3, b - directions of wedging; 4 - stop wedges; 5 - caulk; d - replacement of rotten logs at the crown of the log house using inclined supports: 1 - adjacent logs; 2 - inclined supports; 3 - heel stop, nailed to the floor boards at the place of their attachment to the joist; 4 - lags; 5 - brick column; 6 - base of the underground; 7 - brick pillar foundation; 8 - blind area; 9 - rotten log; e - replacement of rotted logs from the crown of a log house using jigs: 1 - base plates of the jigs; 2 - logs; 3 - support stands; 4 selected rotted logs from the crown of the log house; 5 - screws for fastening the conductors holding the metal strip

Then all walls are washed with soapy water, dried and antiseptic. Next, all cracks are carefully sealed with window putty or lime-gypsum mortar and covered with boards over an installed frame of vertical and horizontal beams.

At the same time, a cornice is installed with the removal of the roof overhang. The remains of logs at the corners of the house are also sheathed with planks in the form of pilasters. The repairs are completed on the base, which is made of either stone or wood.

Secondly, new logs are sheathed when they are poorly matched in the walls: they are not straight and have a small diameter. The seams between the crowns are wide, so the caulk is not dense enough. Typically, such seams are additionally sealed with slats. But over time, the logs dry out and the seams expand again, and their caulking either falls out or hangs on the logs. Cold and dampness begin to penetrate into the house through cracks.

Before covering the walls of such a house, all logs from the outside and inner sides cleaned from dust, dirt and antiseptic. Seams and cracks are sealed along the caulk with lime-gypsum mortar. The boards are fastened from the top level of the plinth to the top edge of the frieze.

Above the base of the pilaster, one or two small vent holes are installed to ventilate the space between external cladding and a wall. They are covered with clay mortar for the winter.

If the walls continue to let in cold and dampness, then for repairs it is necessary to remove all the cladding from the wall, which did not insulate the house, but only damaged the walls. Then you should dry the walls of the house for two or three days (it is better to do such repairs in June-August), after first washing their surface with an antiseptic. Then carefully inspect all the crown logs and discard the most rotten ones first. Such logs are pierced almost right through with sharp metal objects(long knives, an awl, a file, a nail, etc.) and have rusty-colored dust in the middle.

If the rotten logs are at the top, under the eaves, then they are removed from special scaffolding. The logs of the upper crowns, which take the full load from the roof, floors and distribute it horizontally alternately to the underlying crowns of a given log house, and the lower crowns, which transfer the entire weight of the load to the foundation, must be replaced with new ones entirely (without all kinds of inserts).

Intermediate logs are not completely replaced, but only rotten areas. To do this, prepare appropriate inserts from the same type of wood, which are attached to hidden tenons, glue or mastic.

If more than 8...10 logs are destroyed, they replace the entire section of the wall, or even the frame, depending on the general condition and suitability of all logs. If the roof of the house is still suitable for use, then it is “hung” on supported poles or on post-and-beam supports. After this, they begin to dismantle the log houses from the upper crowns to the very bottom. These logs should not be broken or sawed, as they are the standard for recruiting new ones. In addition, window and window dimensions are taken from them. doorways, as well as ridges on which the corresponding boxes are placed. Moreover, if there are among the old logs that are not subject to destruction, then they are used when constructing a new log house.

If, when replacing a demolished log house with a new one, the old plan of the house and its foundation are preserved, then the logs are taken required lengths and diameter (preferably the same). If necessary, you can select logs based on the top cut with a difference in diameter of no more than 30 mm.

When cutting “in the middle” with the cup down, it is selected from the lower or upper side of the log. Used for insulation thermal insulation material, placed in the grooves. The best groove shape is semicircular. For strength, the crowns are fastened along their length with spikes, placing them every 1.0 ... 1.5 m, and more often - in the last two crowns. Ceiling beams are cut between them.

Caulking is done in two times: the first - after putting the log house in place, the second - 1.0... 1.5 years after the shrinkage stops. To insulate the corner joints “in the paw,” they should be covered with boards over the laid heat-insulating material.

Rice. 2. Scheme of knitting the corner “in the bur”: a - processed log: 1 - cup; 2 - remainder; 3 - groove; b, c - cup down and up, respectively; 1 - cup; 2 - remainder

When chopping “in the middle” with the cup up, the wooden walls of the house last longer than with other types of chopping. The first, or frame, crown consists of two first, or lower, and two second, or upper, logs. First lay on opposite sides the first two logs are strictly horizontal and at the same distance from one another. Then two second logs are placed on them strictly at right angles. After this, they begin to make corner joints “into the cup”.

Rice. 3. Scheme of knitting the corner “in the oblo” with the cup up: a, b - marking and cutting out the cup; c, d - marking and cutting out the groove (the dotted line shows the boundaries of the groove); 1 - marking line; 2 - “line”; 3, 4 - border and depth of the groove; 5 - notches; 6 -- groove

First, the cups are marked using a simple tool that carpenters call a “dash.” When marking, spread the legs of the “feature” by half the diameter of the upper log. They attach a “line” to it so that it moves with one leg along the upper log, and with the other it outlines an arc, leaving a line on the lower log. Then, moving one of the upper logs to the side, they cut out cups for it on the lower logs. The removed top log is placed into the finished nests. The same operations are performed for the second upper log. The second logs should not be at the same level as the first, but raised above them by half their diameter.

The first logs of the second crown are laid with their butts in different directions. They should be on the same vertical line with the logs of the first crown.

Along the first logs of the second crown, marks are applied for the cup on the second logs of the first crown. The cups are cut down and the first logs of the second crown are placed in them. Then marks are drawn for the longitudinal groove between the first logs of the first and second crowns, for which the legs of the line are moved apart to the depth or height of the groove. One leg moves along the lower log, the second - along the upper one. These risks must be transferred to the cups, since their depth increases with the depth of the groove. Such risks are carried out on both sides of each log on which a groove is selected.

The log is lifted, turned upside down with the marks, notches are applied between them every 300... 500 mm to the depth of the groove and the wood is selected to the depth of the spread legs of the “line”. Having chosen a groove, the log is laid in place.

In this way, all the crowns are cut sequentially.

Rice. 4. Scheme of knitting a corner “in the paw”: a - processing and preparation of the end of the log; b - corner knitting: 1 - groove; 2 - secret (or root) thorn; 3 - log

Cutting "in the paw" is more difficult than in the "head". Corner joints require more careful execution, otherwise the corners will turn out cold. Before this cutting, all ends of the logs to a length of 1.0 ... 1.5 log diameters are cut into four edges, giving them the shape of a square beam, but with exactly the same cross-section. After this, the edge thickness is measured at each hewn end of the log. Then the end and vertical sides of the hewn ends are divided into eight equal parts, lines parallel to the hewn sides are drawn through the division points, and the resulting edges are marked with the letters AB, VG, DE and ZHZ. On the top and bottom on the AB edge, U8 parts are laid, on the VG and DE edges - 2/8 parts each, and on the ZhZ edge - 3/8 parts each. Then connect the marked points with straight lines and get the ribs of the paw, equal in AB - 6/8, in VG and DE - 4/8 and in ZH - 2/8 of the side of the bar. Carefully cut off the excess wood and get a paw. The groove is marked and selected in the same way as when cutting “in the clear.” To prevent unexpected shifts of the logs, a hidden or root tenon measuring 1/3 of the width and length of the groove is placed on them. It is placed close to the inner corner.

Due to the fact that replacing rotted or decayed logs decorative crown difficult and time-consuming, it is advisable to lay a board under it 40...50 mm thick, 200...300 mm wide, which will protect the logs. It is antiseptic or coated (except for the top and end sides) bitumen mastic or resin resin. When such materials are not available, the lining is wrapped on three sides with roofing felt or roofing felt in two layers and laid on waterproofing. If this creates cracks, then you should cut strips of roofing felt or roofing felt along the width of the board, lay them in two or three layers, butting their ends end to end.

Instead of strips, you can use heat-insulating material, hemp, tow, felt, preferably anti-septic, or better yet impregnated, that is, impregnated with bitumen or tar mastics. This protects them not only from rotting, but also from the appearance various insects, for example, moths in felt. This order of work prevents the penetration of cold air between the lower frame crowns and the base (foundation) and protects the crowns from rotting, which, as a rule, begins from here.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the lining and under it, which will completely prevent its destruction.

The lower sides of the casing crowns should be very well and evenly hewn and even planed. Then the thermal insulation material will fit tightly to the lining.

The space between the foundation and the second two logs of the frame, laid across the width of the house, is filled with stone, brick, concrete stones, or simply covered with a thinner log or half a thick one.

Thermal insulation material is laid between all the crowns.

To remove atmospheric moisture from the lower part of the walls, select a groove in the frame, or better yet, in the second crown, and insert a drain board or roofing steel into it of such a width that the canopy over the base is at least 50 cm.

To strengthen swelling wooden walls, vertical clamps are installed, consisting of two beams, tightened with bolts with a diameter of 16... 19 mm, every 1.0... 1.5 m in height. The holes for the bolts are made oval, taking into account the possible settlement of the wall. IN one-story house beams with a cross section of 120×150 mm are used.

If logs are not properly fitted and tenons are installed without clearance, the crowns often diverge and cracks form. In this case, check all the connections between the walls and the openings and posts, trim the places that interfere with settlement, then caulk the walls.

When the ends of logs in window openings are destroyed, as well as in order to improve thermal insulation, it is advisable to cover all the walls of the house with bricks.

In frame-fill and panel houses walls may freeze due to insulation settling. In this case, additional backfilling is carried out. Change the backfill like this. Partially remove the sheathing and backfill, dry the frame and, if necessary, repair it. Then dry slag is poured in, mineral wool or other thermal insulation material.

Rice. 5. Cover log walls brick (in one brick): 1 - bed rubble stone; 2 - blind area; 3 - base; 4 - ceramic tile; 5, 9 - cement-sand mortar; 6 - basement part brick walls; 7 - base shelf; 8 - galvanized drain steel sheet; 10 - wooden beam OK; 11 - brick; 12 - anchor with masonry dressing rods; 13 - nails, bolts; 14 - log; 15 - wooden plug; 16 - wedge; 17 - caulk; 18 - plinth; 19 - floor covering board; 20 - felt; 21 - logs; 22 - frame crown log; 23 - lying down; 24 - waterproofing; 25 - wooden beam; 26 - concrete; 27 - cement screed; 28 - concrete preparation; 29 - slag; 30 - compacted soil; 31 - foundation

In frame-fill walls, the cladding and frame elements that fall into the zone of frequent moisture most often rot and become unusable. When repairing the frame, it is necessary to completely remove rotten wood.

To do this, they temporarily strengthen the rotted racks by installing new linings on the outside and inside, which are nailed down.

When repairing external walls timber houses the cross-section of the beams themselves is taken depending on the design temperature of the outside air: at - 30 ° C - 150 × 150 mm, at - 40 ° C - 180 × 180 mm. For interior walls use beams with a cross section of 100×150 and 100×180 mm, respectively.

For strength and to reduce airflow, main tenons are made in timber corner joints, as in log joints. Hemp, tow, flax, and felt are placed between the beams. The felt must be impregnated with an anti-moth compound, dried, and then used. For better thermal insulation After erecting a log house, installing a roof and other work, you can caulk the seams. It is recommended to make the rollers smooth and hard. If the beams do not fit tightly, triangular-shaped slats can be inserted between them along the length, choosing a groove of the same shape for them.

To firmly secure a log to a lining or a piece of log, it is very convenient to use the so-called reverse clamp.

Which answered this question.

If not required complete replacement logs, then in order to save material resources You can resort to partial replacement of logs if there is damage - the so-called “spot rot”. In sketch 1, this place is marked by point A.

If it is necessary to replace part or parts of the embedded log of the first crown (V1), it is necessary to check how much rot has spread throughout the log. To do this, you can use a carpenter's chisel, which separates the rot from the damage site. Such clearing must be carried out in both directions from the site of damage, which is determined visually. Usually, mechanical definition(for example, cleaning with a chisel) will reveal a lot large area damage.

When the area of ​​damage to the log (A) is determined, then from the place of damage to the log, retreat at least 40 cm from each edge (B) and install ties from boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm. The height of the screed must be at least two crowns (V2 and V3) from the crown (V1), on which part of the log will be replaced.

The ties (A) are installed on both sides of the house wall and secured by passing through the tie rods (B). A washer and an engraver must be placed under the nut; the diameter of the tie rod must be at least 12 mm so that the tie does not bend under the pressure of the house wall when replacing a damaged part of the log.

You can cut out the damaged part of the log with a gas-electric saw, carefully cutting the end of the tire into the marked place (sketch 1, points B). First, a through cut of the log is made on one side, then on the other side, the sawn part of the log can be removed.

After that. Once the damaged part of the log is removed, it is necessary to make cuts (A) in the repaired crown at both ends of the log. The width of the notch must be at least 20 cm to ensure a strong connection with the insertion of the new part of the log.

The insert (A) is made from a log whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the logs being repaired. The length of the insert (B) should be equal to the width of the sawn part of the log (B). It is also necessary to make counter notches on the insert to connect to the log being repaired. The width of the notches must be equal to the width of the notches on the log being repaired, that is, the width must be at least 20 cm.

The insert is installed in place of the sawn part of the log and driven into place using a sledgehammer, through wooden spacer. After installing the insert (A), you must make at least three through holes(B), into which dowels (C) will be inserted. The gaps between the logs must be sealed with foam.

The dowels must be made of dry wood so that they do not dry out during use, which will lead to loosening of the attachment of the insert with the log.

In this case, during seasonal movements of the house, the insert may be partially squeezed out from the place where it is installed. This can negatively affect the strength of the crowns of the walls of the house. After the dowels are driven into the holes, they must be cut flush with the surface of the log.

Sketch 6

In order for the dowel (A) to “sit” firmly in the hole and (B) to ensure a reliable connection between the log and the insert (B), for this, the dowel must have a cone, as shown in sketch 6. If the hole depth is 200 mm, then the length of the dowel must be at least 250-280mm.

NOTE:

In construction and renovation, unfortunately, nothing lasts forever. Sooner or later, even such seemingly fundamental elements of a log building as tree trunks need repair or replacement.
The most radical solution to the problem of rotten building elements is to replace the logs completely. The process is lengthy and very expensive. Carrying out such work is only possible in warm time of the year. Although, if particularly necessary, all operations for dismantling, installing and caulking logs can be carried out in frosty weather.

All repair activities wooden log house can be divided into three categories:

• Cosmetology events.
• Partial replacement of logs that have become unusable.
• Complete replacement of log elements.

But before you begin repairs, it is worth inspecting areas of the wooden frame to determine the need for repair work.

Signs that logs need repair.

Except visual inspection integrity of the log structure, such a need is determined by the following factors:

• The slope of the building is not provided for by the design;
• Skewed structure;
• Deformation of window and door openings.

It should be noted that such problems can often be caused by a poorly equipped foundation during construction. Settlement of this element is possible even on screw piles.

Cosmetic repair of logs.

This set of works is used on initial stage destruction of logs and includes:

It is economically profitable to do such work yourself.

Replacing part of the log.

If a log monolith is partially destroyed, it can be restored in the form of an insert. Such negative aspects are especially common under window openings. There are several reasons:

• Incorrectly installed window product;
• Absence of even the most primitive ebb;
• Insufficient quality caulking between the window and the wall of the frame;
• Lack of a water barrier between the window product and the wall logs.

The insert is made from a log, the diameter of which corresponds to the area being replaced. New pieces of wood are secured to the old base with wooden strips. In order not to disturb the overall exterior of the structure, the fastening elements must be absolutely identical in shape and size. The visible fastening elements of the insert should be positioned strictly symmetrically. This is especially true for plates, washers and nuts of fastening studs. The interior part of the room is usually not associated with such work. Therefore, the design of fasteners inside the house is not particularly important. The main thing is the reliability of the design.

Replacing the crowns of a wooden frame.

This is the most difficult operation when repairing logs of wooden buildings. Typically, lower logs that have become rotten due to weather and time require replacement. Doing such work with your own hands is quite problematic.


The process itself begins with lifting the log house with jacks. Perfect option- completely lift the structure, tearing it away from the foundation. But such a procedure will require not only additional fastening of the walls and corners of the house, but also very precise engineering calculations in order to avoid fatal consequences.


More often in the practice of such work, hanging one or two walls of a building with jacks is used, followed by dismantling the foundation.

Rotten logs are replaced with new ones, followed by caulking. After this, the foundation mass is restored.

If necessary, the operation is repeated around the entire perimeter of the building.

Repairing a log house with your own hands can be carried out for the main reason related to the fact that wood can dry out during use. wooden house, which leads to the formation of more large gaps. Initially, wood contains a certain amount of water - 8-20%, which is determined technological process in the manufacture of logs and beams.

Log houses have always been in demand among developers. For the construction of wooden houses, timber or rounded logs are usually used, which are presented in a large assortment on the market. Natural wood has not only various advantages, but also certain disadvantages, for example, associated with the formation of gaps between logs.

The living room of a log house must certainly be warm. This means that heating equipment is placed there, for example, a Russian stove, which takes up quite a large space, located in the corner. Previously, Russian stoves were used for drying clothes, for relaxing on a bed, for preparing food and animal feed. Therefore, it is best to dismantle it if there is a Russian stove in an old log house, since its age may coincide with the age of the log house itself, and over the years the stove will still collapse.

In what cases is it necessary to repair a log house?

During the construction process it is impossible to provide sufficient flat surface log frame blanks where there will be no gaps. For wood materials that have been subjected to special treatment, such a negative point applies to a lesser extent. For example, it could be a calibrated log.

A log house made of strong logs that fit tightly together has reliable design. If over time the logs have lost their performance due to the presence of microbes, high humidity, fungus, then the elements that have become unusable should be replaced with new ones.

In practice, dismantling a Russian stove is not associated with large costs, and it can be done by one person. Brick pipe should also be removed and replaced with iron. You can heat the room by purchasing at least for the first time a small-sized potbelly stove. If the log house will not be used in winter, then a conventional electronic heater will suffice, since the log house can retain heat indoors for a long time.

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Features of repairing wooden houses made of timber or logs

All logs should be carefully inspected, examining their integrity and identifying decayed areas. Next, they count the logs that require replacement, determining their sizes. After this, they purchase new logs. Theoretically design wooden structure allows for such a possibility, which is associated with the removal individual elements log house

When starting to repair an old log house, it is not necessary to ensure that the logs remain intact when removing them, since they may break.

Replacing logs in a log house: a- it was; b- it became.

As a result, they will have to be removed in parts. A situation may arise that the entire log house will be disassembled and will have to be reassembled. This is another question related not to the repair of the log house, but to its new construction.

If it is necessary to replace part of the logs, the old ones are removed and replaced with purchased ones. In an old log house, cracks may appear in the logs, the repair of which will depend on their shape. Cracks may not spoil the integrity of the log, but they need to be caulked, just like the cracks between logs.

If there are horizontal cracks in the logs, this can lead to their growth. Crack repair can be performed using the following technology:

1. Clean the crack from accumulated debris.
2. Treat with antifungal agents and antiseptic.
3. Seal cracks using a special compound available at any building materials store.

Tools you can use:

• rubber mallet;
• hammer;
• caulking spatula;
• chisel.

The size of the working part of the caulking blade can be different, since they are designed to seal cracks and cracks of various sizes. Materials needed to repair a log house:

• tow;
• hemp;
• felt;
• linen (thin flat fabric).

Caulk of a log house: A - stretched; B - set.

The materials are environmentally friendly, but have a short shelf life and absorb moisture, which is their disadvantage. Entire colonies of insects often grow in such materials. There are two ways to caulk cracks:

1. Stretch. The crack cavity is filled with rows and individual pieces of insulation, from which a rope is then twisted and driven on top of the log along the entire length of the crack.
2. Set. Large gaps are plugged using strands of insulation, which should be wound into a ball and then gradually unwound using a chisel or spatula, tightly sealing the resulting voids.

To repair cracks in log logs, they sometimes use special compounds that you can prepare yourself. Necessary materials:

• sand;
• clay;
• cement.

You can caulk the log house only after it has completely settled and dried.

This type of grout is not able to absorb water and is not elastic. The process of shrinkage of log logs will be associated with their destruction, which will require more frequent repairs by caulking. You can purchase a special sealing compound that allows you to seal cracks, which is prepared mainly on a polymer base, which gives it the greatest elasticity.

The density with which logs or beams are adjacent to each other in a log house affects the quantitative choice necessary materials. For example, the cost of 1 kg of sealant will be about 275-350 rubles. Despite the elasticity of the sealant, this composition is not always used, since the wood loses its ability to “breathe”.

However, this composition is recommended only because it does not treat the entire surface of the logs, but only the cracks. If the house is slightly askew, then it can be jacked up by placing 1-2 crowns of logs under it from the side of the slope of the log house.