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Heating technology for room warming

If the heating radiator is installed on an external wall, then it heats the street (unless it is very good thermal insulation). In Soviet antiquity, I was amazed by a winter photo taken with a “thermal imager” from outside apartment building: the brightest spots (where it’s hottest) are windows, under windows, near windows.

As is known, the greater the temperature difference between solid body(here - the wall of the house, a window) and gas (outside air), the greater the heat transfer (heat loss). Moreover, the relationship between temperature and heat loss is by no means linear; it is affected by convection, the upward movement of heated air.

The idea of ​​​​installing a heating radiator under the window - it would seem... Good idea, should be formed thermal curtain. However, they forgot (and still forget) about heating the wall behind the radiator.

So, it’s normal when there’s more on the street three days-25 (Celsius), and in the room +25, then the wall surface can have a temperature of +12...+15. Depends on the design and materials.

Behind the battery, the wall heats up to +40...+55. Again, it depends on how well the air circulates behind the radiator, etc.

So, the usual situation: (in brackets - the temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the wall)
- Square outer wall"behind" the radiator - 1.8 () square meters- the surrounding area also heats up! - (70 degrees)
The area of ​​the outer wall “not behind” the radiator is 4 square meters (40 degrees)
Window area - 1.2 sq.m.

I dare to assure you that through the intensely heated wall behind the heating radiator almost as much goes out into the street as through the rest of the wall.

In addition, in many houses the radiators are located in a niche; the wall near the radiators is thinner. For beauty, or what? And the distance from the wall to the radiator is only three centimeters.

And if the room is cold, +16?
So, you can raise the air temperature in the room by 2-3 degrees with basic thermal insulation by a quick fix. There is a very big difference in “comfort”, the air in the room is +16 or +18.

I did this “trick” in Stalin (brick apartment house with "high ceilings", early 1950s), in the office.

The thermal insulation behind the radiator consisted of “whatever came to hand”: white corrugated cardboard from a large box and aluminum (only metal!) kitchen foil.

Glory to the lazy plumbers, they didn't install new ones. cast iron batteries when repairing “as it should”, in the niches they were as much as 7 centimeters away from the wall. However, under the window sill a charming gap of almost half a centimeter and dimensionless depth was discovered. I caulked it with strips of polyethylene foam packaging or something.

I glued 3 blanks of cardboard according to the size of the niche and between the radiator mounting hooks with foil “on strips” of universal silicone glue.

The most disgusting thing is to glue this cardboard with foil behind the battery. Closely. I stuck (smeared) silicone onto the dots and pressed the “foil cardboard” to the wall with spacers made from scraps of cardboard. I removed them only the next day. It didn't fall off.

The room thermometer on the wall showed two degrees more the next morning, although it was still cold outside.

Warning: if the thermal insulation plugs, leaving an air passage of less than 2 centimeters for air circulation behind the radiator, then the heating may become worse. All that remains is to sculpt the foil on the wall.

P.S.
How to make it warmer? You just need to heat up the thermometer.

P.P.S. What was all this insulating fuss about? Wouldn't it be easier to turn on the electric heater? There simply weren’t enough of them, oil ones, for all the rooms. The power of the electrical wiring was also not enough.

I have repeatedly heard the question from the Customer: “Which radiator heats better?” I asked him: “What do you mean “heats better”? And I get very different answers: it gives off more heat per unit time; heats the room faster; takes longer to cool down. The most common answer is: “it warms better” - it warms so much that it doesn’t feel cold in the house. Amazing! Let us select such a heating device for you. And so that it is beautiful and inexpensive :)

In this article we will choose for you radiators, heated floors, convectors, i.e. those heating devices (HE) that are installed in each room and in this particular room support comfortable temperature.

The choice of such devices today is very wide, even if we consider only the main types:

1. Radiators: cast iron, steel, aluminum;
2. Warm floor water or electric;
3. Floor and in-floor convectors;
4. Heated towel rails;

But there are also various exclusive solutions (heating baseboard, warm walls, ladder-radiator, etc.)…

Before rushing into this pool of information, let's first decide what is important when choosing an OP. What you need to pay attention to and what you can ignore.

At first glance, it seems that the main criterion for choosing an OP will be its heat transfer (the amount of heat that the device gives off per unit time). This is the value that determines which device “heats better.” But in reality everything turns out to be completely wrong...

A little theory: Your home loses heat in cold weather. This is called heat loss. The lower the temperature outside, the greater the temperature difference between outside and inside the house. The greater the difference, the more heat the house loses. And the more heat loss.

The task of the heating device is to heat up and transfer heat to the room, to compensate for heat loss in this room. If the heat transfer of the OP is insufficient (it is incorrectly selected, the heat transfer value is less than heat loss), then the temperature in the room will drop below the required value and it will become cold.

Then our task becomes to select a heating device whose heat transfer will be greater or, in severe frost, is equal to the heat loss of the room. And we can choose such a device of ANY TYPE! For example, the heat loss of one of the rooms in your house is 1000 W. This means that an aluminum Nova Florida radiator made of 9 fins (heat output 1035 W) must be installed in this room. Or steel radiator Kermy FKO 220507W2 (1012W). Or roll out 75 meters of PE-MDXc F16 pipe if installed in a heated floor room (1050 W). Or... many more examples can be given. I repeat once again: we can pick up the OP required power ANY TYPE. And these devices will “heat” equally.

To summarize what has been said: there is no need to look for a device with the greatest heat transfer; any device will provide you with the necessary thermal power. It is important to choose this device correctly.

“What then should you pay attention to when choosing a heating device, if not its specifications?!” - you ask. I answer: you need to pay attention to four criteria.

Firstly, this is - type heating device.

Not every device can be installed in your specific room. For example, in some room of the house you decided to make huge windows, right up to the floor. Or - balcony door. How to heat this room? What heating device should I install?

Naturally, there is no way to install a radiator under such a window. You can put it nearby, but then the cold will spread across the floor of the room. You can make a warm floor in the room and then the cold will not spread across the floor. But the problem of moisture condensation on the glass (“fogging”) will remain, which a warm floor cannot cope with... So. You are left with the only correctly working heating device option - in-floor convectors. And, although the option is expensive (in relation to other OP options), there is no alternative to it in this situation. Either install in-floor convectors, or refuse floor-length windows.

So, the first thing to do (by yourself or together with a heating specialist) is to mentally walk through all the rooms of your house and determine the types for each room. heating devices, which can be installed in this room. After that, move on to the next criterion.

The second criterion that you need to pay attention to is - price.

I don't mean absolute price, but relative price. No need to compare two radiators with each other different sizes and choose the one that is cheaper. No. You need to calculate how much it will cost you to heat a single room when heating it different types OP.

For example, in your house there is a room of 12 square meters. with heat loss 1000 W. And the architecture of this room allows you to install any devices there: radiators, heated floors or in-floor convectors. Let's make this comparison table:

- the radiator is installed under the window to perform three functions: to heat the room; cut off cold air, “flowing” from the window to the floor; prevent the window from fogging up.

- objectively, the figure will be higher, since the presence of a water-heated floor will complicate and, accordingly, make the boiler room more expensive.

Naturally, the price, in addition to the type of device, will greatly depend on its quality(third criterion). For example, rib aluminum radiator can be purchased at prices ranging from 7 to 14 euros, a steel radiator from Kermy (Germany) is more expensive than a similar one steel radiator Lideya (Belarus) on average by 50%, etc. Naturally, these are things of different quality.

Which quality to choose is your decision. I already wrote in the article “How to choose a gas boiler” my method for choosing a quality level. Follow the link, read, you may find this technique useful ().

Further, knowing what devices can be installed in your home, and knowing what it costs (for example, that heated floors are more expensive radiator heating 2-2.5 times), you can go to the last criterion - design.

Here I'm talking about aesthetics. It is clear that you should like the device, because it is a detail of the interior of your home. Or, if the device is not attractive, it should be hidden so that your aesthetic feelings are not offended! :)

Let's summarize what has been said. I see the algorithm for choosing heating devices as follows:

1. We determine the heat loss for each room;
2. we determine the types of OP that can be installed in each room;
3. compile a table of relative prices (adjusting for quality);
4. Taking into account the price and design of the OP, we make the final choice of device for each room.

And one more important point : How will you control the temperature in the room?

There are two options: manually or automatically. Manual adjustment means that if it gets hot or cold, you go to the radiator and manually change its temperature by turning the radiator valve. With automatic adjustment, you set a comfortable temperature on the regulator (thermostatic head, room sensor), and then the automation monitors its maintenance. The automatic option for radiator heating is more expensive than the manual one by at least 15 euros for each radiator. For other types of OP this difference is even higher. But I think this increase in price is very justified. Because:

1. You save energy (gas, firewood, electricity). Any extraneous heat source that appears in the room will be taken into account automatically and the radiators will heat (and consume energy) less by its value. Such sources: included kitchen stove, a lit fireplace, the sun shining through the window. Even a company of 5 people in a room is plus 500 W :)
2. You are not distracted. Those. Don’t walk around the house and turn up the radiator valves every time the temperature changes;
3. Your home is insured against freezing. Story: One person had manually adjustable radiators installed throughout his house. In the boiler room, which was located in the basement, such a radiator was also installed. And while people in the house sometimes regulated the temperature of the radiators, they rarely went into the basement. For what? What difference does it make what the temperature is there: +15°C or +3°C? There are no people there. The main thing is that it does not fall below zero, and the lower, the better. And everything was fine until one night the temperature dropped sharply from -3°C to -21°C. The half-open radiator failed and the boiler room froze. The boiler burst, pumps and pipes were torn... Damage amounted to 2800 euros...

The case, of course, is not typical. And the choice of temperature control is your choice. I outlined my vision of the situation and my recommendations. You can read more about automatic temperature control in the article “Automation in the control system of a private home.”

Sincerely, Boris Smolyak (Director of Svoy Dom LLC)

Our offers

I can do the selection of heating devices for you. The best thing is during a personal meeting in our office, when I have before my eyes a plan of your house, and you have equipment that you can see and touch. Call us, let's arrange a meeting. It's free, but I think it will be useful for you. At a minimum, you will know the options for heating your home and will be able to make more informed choices.

Or, if you don’t want to come, follow the link “free calculation of the heating system". You will need to answer a few survey questions and send me the house plan. I will prepare and send you my proposals by e-mail.

Apartment design is a creative, interesting, and educational process. When decorating rooms, you need not only to choose the right building materials and Decoration Materials in terms of quality, but also pay attention to aesthetic characteristics. When arranging a room, you need to choose the right one color design depending on the size, functions of the room, proportions of walls, ceiling, personal preferences.

All colors are conventionally divided by temperature. Correct selection colors and their combinations allow you to achieve amazing optical effects - enlarge or reduce a room, raise or lower the ceiling, make the climate of the room warmer, more comfortable or, on the contrary, more ascetic. How to correctly combine warm and cold colors, a table for combining shades, basic arrangement rules and optical tricks are discussed in this article.

What is a color chart?

Color Chart - traditional scheme, showing the relationship of colors and shades to each other. Thanks to it, even a non-professional in the use of colors can easily learn the principles of color combinations, choosing ideal shades and contrasting colors. The table is an indispensable assistant when mixing paints, coordinating the right pigments, selecting tones and includes:

1. primary and composite colors;
2. chromatic (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, their shades) and achromatic (white, black, shades of gray).

The color wheel includes three primary colors:

1. yellow,
2. red,
3. blue.

Additional colors have been added to the main ones:

1. orange,
2. violet,
3. green.

What are cool and warm colors? Warm tones are located on the left side of the color wheel, cool tones are located on the right.

Correct selection of colors in relation to each other (in accordance with the descriptions placed on the wheel) will answer key questions: how to get perfect color, how to combine shades, what colors match each other and what contrast is best?
Understanding the principles of colorimetry has a huge impact on professional design and color rendering.

What the table gives:

• understanding the nature of flowers;
• familiarity with the principles of combining shades;
• how to distinguish between warm and cool colors, primary and composite;
• training in the use of shades.

Table of cold and warm colors

Warm colors

The color scheme affects the mood. Before decorating the interior, it is worth studying.

Why are warm colors popular? The warm shades of colors in the interior make visitors want to stay. Surrounded by warm colors, you can relax comfortably, spend pleasant evenings with your loved ones, eat, and create. The interior temperature can range from moderate soft beige, brown tones to hot orange-red geysers.

Warm colors have the following effects:

• stimulate;
• make the room more comfortable;
• add optimism;
• poisonous tones are sometimes considered aggressive.

Which palette should you choose? How to choose a combination of warm tones? Below is our mini guide to " warm side" colors.

Cozy ecru

Ecru is a combination of white with shades of yellow and gray. This is a natural shade of linen, cotton, sand, beige, cream and creamy white. Ecru reflects light softly but effectively. The neutral tone makes it easy to choose. Surrounded by ecru tones, it is difficult to ignite the senses; they relax.

Ecru excels in:

• living room,
• bedroom,
• bathroom,
• kitchen.

Earth colors

The earth color palette includes:

• brown,
• beige,
• olive,
• grey,
• yellowish green.

They are tinted, unobtrusive, elegant, natural, and exude a pleasant, safe warmth. Such an environment will help you relax and escape from everyday worries.

• living room,
• bedroom,
• bathroom,
• kitchen.

In addition, it is quite easy to pick up. Brown reminds natural wood, thanks to which it harmoniously combines with most colors and is included in many combinations.

Sunny interior

Yellow color will give the interior a dose of positive energy. There are many various shades yellow:

• citric,
• honey,
• mustard,
• pineapple,
• oil,
• linen,
• amber,
• gold.

The combination of yellow shades forms an interesting composition. It is perfectly complemented by white ecru with warm tones and delicate gray.

The influence of yellow is positive:

• stimulates creativity;
• encourages action;
• creates comfort;
• adds optimism;
• solves problems with lack of motivation.

Orange stimulates fun and symbolizes fire. Fire is a home symbol of hearth, warmth, and comfort. Combination orange color, brick terracotta and rust works in rooms where they spend leisure time with family and loved ones.

Orange is especially suitable for:

Dark red, scarlet, ruby, burgundy - rich shades of love and passion. Red is the hottest of all colors.

The effect of red is as follows:

• increases blood pressure;
• heats the atmosphere, lights a fire;
• used for romantic meetings;
• stimulates appetite, recommended when eating;
• adds spice to the atmosphere.

Warm colors will help create cozy atmosphere, feel comfortable. Shades far removed from the hottest reds are safe and bring calm, relaxation, and rest. The closer to the opposite end of the scale, the hotter the shades, the more stimulating they are. Therefore, when using yellow, orange, red, it is worth combining them with cold tones, observing moderation. The right combination cold and warm colors will help to avoid cacophony and overloaded rooms with temperature. An interior that is too hot will begin to irritate, and a design that is too cold will bring sadness and despondency.

It is worth remembering that some warm shades become cold if they contain the following admixtures of cold tones:

• green,
• violet,
• blue,
• grey.

Cool colors

Cool tones on the color wheel start with shades of green (mint, emerald green), as well as shades of blue and violet. Why is a cool shade often used?

Cool colors have the following effects:

• calm down;
• relax;
• make the room visually larger, optically expand the space of small rooms;
• help to concentrate, recommended for classrooms, offices;
• Those who want to lose weight should remember that blue color suppresses appetite (it is not used in restaurants, cafes, canteens).

Cool shades are used in all rooms.

How to decorate a cold interior? Below are several interesting ideas how to choose the right one, harmonious combination cool tones.

Purple living room

Purple walls, furniture, and living room decorations will help you relax after a busy day. Purple looks especially beautiful paired with gray. The purple and gray combination is beautiful, relaxing, elegant.

Using silver accessories with the addition of black will make the room glamorous. Usage architectural concrete will create an atmosphere in, give the room a modern shine, a touch of minimalism.

Blue bedroom

A bedroom decorated with blue and its shades is suitable for people who have difficulty falling asleep, relaxing after a hard day at work, or stressful situations. You can bet on the following combinations:

1. pastel blues paired with crisp grays and whites;
2. dark blue and white;
3. dark blue and light blue.

The blue bedroom will become a place where you can relax well and gain strength in the process of healthy, restorative sleep. Just don’t use a computer, tablet, or smartphone in the bedroom, which interferes with the relaxation process. Blue light emitted electronic devices, disrupts the production of melatonin, the sleep hormone. It is advisable to leave your work in the office.

Cool green – for a teenager’s room, office

Cold green color Recommended for people who work on a computer - it will help your eyes relax. Green is ideal where work causes eye strain. The cool green colors in the palette below are pictured on the left.

Mint and pastel green shades will come in handy in a children's room. They look harmonious in the company:

• bleached blue (boy version),
• cool pink, purple (version for girls).

Looks great on a green background:

• white furniture,
• turquoise accessories,
• gray furniture, accessories,
• pastels.

In a green room it is easier for a child to relax and fall asleep. Optimistic green helps children create, learn, develop, and stimulates mental activity. Depending on the size of the rooms, you should choose a shade of green using bright hues for decorating small rooms.

Marine climate in the bathroom

Blue bathroom design gives a feeling of freshness. Blue looks especially harmonious in retro, shabby chic style. Stylish furniture looks beautiful with blue walls and white fixtures.

Adding elements related to the coastal climate, beach, sea will make the room look like sea ​​coast. Modern interior make it warmer wooden elements, houseplants.

The correct use of colors will help achieve interesting effects and will positive influence on mood, activity, will help you rest, relax or, on the contrary, recharge your batteries.

What to do, if central system The heating of the apartment cannot cope with winter cold? Save heat or buy additional heaters

Photo: Depositphotos/alexraths

in winter apartment heating does not always cope with the cold, and the room thermometer drops to 14-15 °C. This may be due to the distance of the house from the boiler room, weak heating of the coolant, improper routing of heating pipes, or large heat losses through walls, floors and windows. Letters to authorities and administrative methods of settlement are unlikely to lead to a positive result in this regard heating season. The maximum that they can offer you is to recalculate the amount of payments downwards.

No one but ourselves cares about how to make an apartment warm. The editors of RBC Real Estate carefully studied the issue and found several solutions that can warm the apartment in winter.

Mobile heat

The simplest and quick way- buy a mobile heater: infrared, fan heater, oil radiator or convector. The first two types locally heat the air near the bed or near the balcony, but they do not help much central heating. The latter evenly heat the room like conventional radiators. The convector does this faster, and oil cooler it will take time to reach the specified power. Obviously all these electrical devices do not contribute to savings. With a relatively low initial price of equipment (from 1000 rubles and above), 1-2 kW will leak every hour. Yes, and the power of the intra-apartment electrical network for simultaneous operation electric kettle, heater and washing machine may not be enough.

The most practical are fan heaters with ceramic heating elements and a low-noise tangential fan. Vertical floor models automatically rotate, spreading warm air around the room, and are equipped with a control panel. Model Timberk TFH T20 FSN.PQ

The Noirot electric convector creates a powerful flow of warm air due to the height of the hollow body. It can be placed on the wall or on wheels, which can be purchased separately.

Dyson, known for its innovative vacuum cleaners and fans, has released the AM05 model with an air heating function. Its main advantage is the creation of a strong flow and the absence of open heaters, although, in our opinion, dust should still be drawn into the body of the device. The price is 4-5 times higher than traditional models

The most beautiful heater from an interior point of view will be an electric fireplace. In addition to a pleasant glow, it emits 2-4 kW of heat

Small biofuel fireplaces produce a lot of heat and burn air without releasing soot. The output is only water vapor and C02

Heat from the air

Some split systems (air conditioners with internal and external units) are capable of cooling the air in summer and heating it in the off-season and in winter due to the principle of a heat pump. During the hot season, excess heat is discharged outside; during the cold season, any amount of heat is taken from the atmosphere, that is, external and indoor unit change roles. Thus, reversible air conditioners can supply warm air even at sub-zero temperatures outside. Due to the fact that the device does not have heating elements, it consumes three to four times less energy. Split systems produce 3-4 kW of heat per kilowatt consumed.

Passive heat

According to experts, 25% of heat escapes through windows, so it’s worth paying attention to their condition. Old wooden structures contribute little to heat conservation, and the fittings plastic frames Over time, it becomes loose, causing the seal to be compromised. In any case, it is worth installing modern heat-saving windows with increased heat transfer resistance, at least 0.55 1 sq. m * S / W.

Glazing a balcony, even without insulation, will improve thermal insulation by 15-20%. Particular attention should be paid to the finishing window slopes. Sometimes it is not enough to simply level and paint them, but serious insulation with polystyrene foam or mineral wool followed by plastering or finishing with plasterboard. Ready-made panels are also available for sale.

Corner external walls on the north side of the house they do not add heat, especially in older ones panel houses. It's good if it's planned facade insulation all the walls outside, but not everywhere major renovation. If you insulate the walls from the inside, the volume of the room will decrease, but it will become much warmer.

Warm floor

In the process of renovating an apartment, you should not neglect the installation of electric heated floors. Let us remind you that it is prohibited to use water systems in apartments. A special heating cable is laid in the screed or directly in the adhesive when replacing tiles. Film floors are generally installed under parquet board, laminate or linoleum using dry technology. Such additional heating is the most pleasant for a person. Heat rises gently from the floor across the entire surface. Due to the low temperature (24-25 ° C) there is no excessive overheating and drying out of the air.

Current delivery standards in Russia utilities imply that the temperature in ordinary rooms should not fall below 18 degrees. IN corner rooms and bathrooms the bar is slightly higher, 20 and 25 degrees, respectively. If the temperature in the house is below standards, residents can formally complain about management organization. And if the current standard seems insufficient, the problem will have to be solved independently.

Close cracks and openings. Tape up window frames only makes sense on windows with ordinary glasses. Plastic bags, as a rule, are a priori protected from drafts. Close the cracks in doorways and on the balcony you can use polyurethane foam or a woolen cord sealed with a special tape. The shelf life of temporary insulation is one season.

Find cracks in the corners. The best option- order a thermal imaging study, a photo of the apartment from special device, which will reflect the coldest zones of housing. Problem areas can be eliminated based on the results of the study. The average cost of the service in Moscow varies from 4 to 6 thousand rubles; in the regions, a thermogram can be ordered for 3 thousand rubles.

Glaze the balcony. The presence of an insulated loggia will significantly increase the overall temperature in the house, especially if the structure is connected to several rooms at once. According to engineers, indoor balcony retains about 15% of heat in the apartment.

Don't neglect carpets. The coating will automatically help to cope with all the cracks and increase the thermal insulation of the home. Option will do in the absence of the opportunity to install a complex “warm floor” in the apartment.

Block off the walls facing the street. During the USSR for insulation load-bearing structures used carpets hung on the wall. An alternative could be a cabinet placed close to the wall or any other large furniture.

Partially cover the ventilation holes with paper. The system will help slow down air circulation and retain heat. In wet areas, for example, the bathroom or kitchen, it is better to proceed with caution. Insufficient air movement can cause mold to form.

Strengthen the doors. Apartments lose quite a lot of heat through cracks in the entrance jambs. The best option- install double doors. If this is not possible, you can simply make sure that the door fits as tightly as possible to the jamb by sealing all the cracks with foam.

Check the functionality of the radiators. The temperature of the riser and the entire surface of the battery must be uniform. The presence of “cold” areas indicates poor system performance. There are three main reasons: general wear and tear heating system, a malfunction of a specific radiator or hard limiters on the thermostat. The standard maximum temperature for radiators is usually set at 35 degrees, but in some cases the maximum comfort temperature is 17-19. The device, as a rule, can simply be reconfigured.

Get the fans. It is easy to raise the temperature in the room by 3-5 degrees by installing a fan that will direct air flow along the battery. The design will help distribute heat evenly throughout the room. The same approach can be applied to electric heaters.

Upgrade battery. If you stick a piece of reflective foil or a special heat-reflecting material with a shiny penofol surface on the wall, behind the surface of the radiator, the batteries will work more efficiently. After installing the reflector, the gap between the wall and the structure should not be less than two centimeters, otherwise impaired air circulation will provide the opposite effect.