Help on Tele2, tariffs, questions

Automation for sliding gates is not only the gate drive itself, which directly opens and closes the gate leaf. A gate drive is just part of a gate automation kit. In addition to the drive, this kit additionally includes at least a toothed rack (which is attached to the gate leaf and, clinging to which with its gear, the gate drive will move the gate leaf, opening and closing them) and two limit switches (which are installed on the gear rack and limit the movement of the gate , turning off the drive at the moment when the sliding gate is completely open or completely closed.

Of course, a gate automation kit consisting of a gate drive, a gear rack and two limit switches is a minimal and sufficient set. However, if you supplement this automation kit for sliding gates with just a few inexpensive elements, you will receive a kit that provides all possible conveniences from using the gate. These additional elements are:

• photocells (a set of 2 pieces, designed to stop the gate closing when any obstacle appears in the gate opening),
• warning light (flashes while the gate drive is operating),
• remote antenna (increases the range of the gate opening/closing remote control).

The block diagram of connecting the drive and automation for the gate is shown in the figure below. Previously, we already talked about how to install in the article of the same name: . But after the gate is installed and before you begin installing and connecting the gate drive and automation elements, it is necessary to lay an electrical cable to the gate to connect the power supply to the gate drive and automation components for sliding gates.

Cabling

The requirements and rules for laying electrical cables underground are determined by a document called Laying cables underground must be carried out in accordance with paragraph 2.3 of this document - “Laying cable lines in the ground” (pages 156-159). You can directly from our website by simply clicking on the link.

In order not to bother you by reading this document, in which most of the information is devoted to the requirements for laying cable lines with a voltage of more than 1 kV, we will make a small summary from this document. Underground installation of a cable with a voltage of 220-380 V in the courtyard of a private house can be carried out without providing additional protection for the cable from damage. However, in places where the soil is loaded (for example, under a car driveway), it is recommended to use additional protection for the electric cable by laying it under this place in a case, the role of which can be played, for example, by steel or polymer pipe. Depth underground laying cable is usually 0.7 - 1.2 meters. Below are a few general advice for laying cables underground on your site:

• The cable must be laid in a trench 0.7 - 0.8 meters deep. To make it easier to measure its depth while digging a trench, make a mark of the required depth directly on the handle of the shovel in the form of several turns of electrical tape (as shown in the photo);

  

• At the bottom of the trench, it is advisable to arrange a “cushion” in the form of a bedding of sifted sand without stones, in a layer of about 10 cm;
• Having dug a trench, remove from the dump large stones, glass fragments, any large objects or objects with sharp edges that can crush or interrupt the cable after it is buried;
• Try to dig a trench at a distance of at least 0.5-1 meter from the fence, foundations, walls of buildings and structures, tree roots, etc. It is better for your cable line to be longer than for it to run through areas that will ever have to be opened and there is a possibility of damaging the cable;
• In areas where there is a possibility of future excavation, lay the cable inside a steel pipe and/or protect it from mechanical damage by covering it with ordinary clay brick in one layer across the cable route (if you dig, the shovel will hit the brick and not break the cable insulation);
• Although most modern electrical cables and wires have strong enough insulation with high resistance, allowing the cable to remain even in water, we would recommend laying other cable wires inside a polyethylene pipe made of HDPE (low-density polyethylene).

Laying the cable inside a HDPE polyethylene pipe has many advantages. Several cables and wires for various purposes can be laid simultaneously in one pipe. Such a pipe will group your wires into one whole, protect them from mechanical damage (this is especially important in the case of thin, fragile wires, such as twisted pair), and protect them from groundwater. Typically used for such purposes technical pipe HDPE with a diameter of 50mm. Please note that we have highlighted the phrase “in bold” for a reason. technical pipe"! HDPE pipes are usually divided into conventional pipes, those used as pressure water pipes and technical pipes. A technical pipe differs from a regular pipe in that more recycled materials are used in its production. In other words, part of the waste and polyethylene waste from the production of conventional HDPE pipes is crushed, melted and added to the raw materials for the production of " technical pipe" Such a pipe has the same overall dimensions, the same wall thickness, but it will not withstand the same pressure that a regular one can withstand. water pipe. But the price of such a pipe is TWO TIMES LOWER than the price of a regular HDPE pipe. Such pipes are ideal for laying cables underground.



We used polyethylene pipes produced in Leningrad region at the factory Wasser-Logik . Prices for 1 linear meter of HDPE pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a wall thickness of 3 mm were:

• Regular drinking pipe 50 x 3.0 (10 atm) GOST 18599 = 80.82 rub./m.p.
• Technical pipe 50 x 3.0 = 48.49 rub./m.p.

Remember that pipes can have different wall thicknesses, which greatly affects their cost. Typically, there is no need to use pipes with a wall thickness of more than 3 mm to lay the cable.

Despite the fact that polyethylene pipes have a certain elasticity, they cannot be bent at right angles with a small bend radius. In cases where it is necessary to bend such a pipe at a right angle (with a small bending radius), special couplings and fittings should be used. Factory Wasser-Logik can produce fittings, flanges, transitions, welding them to order or complete with standard threaded plugs and couplings that allow connecting pipes:

• in a straight line in one line;
• at right angles;
• in the form of a T-shaped tee.

The design of these threaded couplings allows you to connect polyethylene pipes, ensuring complete tightness of the connection and withstand pressure up to 15 atm.













Such couplings are very convenient, with their help you can create bends at right angles, for example, in order to bring such a pipe with a cable close to an electrical support underground, and then turn it up at a right angle and insert it straight along the support column from below into electrical shield. Such an input will protect the pipe from precipitation getting inside it (provided that the protection class of the electrical panel used corresponds to protection from precipitation). For the purpose of such entry into the electrical panel, it is enough to drill a hole in its bottom using a crown with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the technical polyethylene pipe used. See photo below.















We draw your attention to the fact that all wires must be pulled through the polyethylene pipe even before you connect it using threaded couplings that form bends at right angles and before you bury this pipe! This is extremely important! Cables such as VVG and many others do not have enough elasticity for you to be able to pull them through a pipe with bends! Not a single conductor will help you with this!

The procedure is as follows:

1. The topology for laying cables across the territory of your site is being thought out (for example, it is more logical to first transfer all the power from the street panel to the panel located in the house, and from there distribute it through a system of automatic devices to consumers, including gates and their automation);
2. A corresponding trench is excavated;
3. The technical polyethylene pipe is unwound and laid in a trench and cut in places where it is necessary to make bends, implemented on tees;

   

4. All cables are assembled into appropriate bundles and, with the help of a conductor, are pushed through all the required sections of pipe and coupling (the sections of pipe and coupling must be strung onto a bundle of cables in the same order in which they will subsequently be connected). Cable bundles must be pulled by tying them together—at one time. Later, you are unlikely to be able to pull any additional wire through the pipe with cables;

   

   

5. All threaded couplings are installed in their places (screwed onto the ends of the corresponding pipe sections);

   

   

6. Where necessary, plugs are placed on the ends of the pipes protruding above the ground to protect them from precipitation getting inside;

   

7. The pipe is laid in the trench and the trench is backfilled (without stones or other objects that could subsequently damage the pipe).

   

   Automation for sliding gates - power supply

   Let's return to our gate drive and automation kit. How many and what kind of wires do we need to lay to our gates in advance when laying cables along the site? We will answer this question below, but first things first. In order not to waste time on empty discussions on the topic “which gate drive is better to choose”, we will simply say there is a brand CAME, there is nothing more! The drive for sliding gates (like everything else) is also selected based on the weight of the gate leaf. The heavier the sash, the more powerful the drive is needed.

   Automation kits for CAME sliding gates are described below:

   Set CAME ВХ-243	Set CAME ВХ-68	Set CAME ВХ-78	Set CAME BK-1200	Set CAME BK-1800
   Sliding gate weight up to 300 kg, high work intensity (70%).	Sliding gate weight up to 800 kg, work intensity 30%.	The weight of sliding gates is up to 800 kg, the operating intensity is 30%, the function of incomplete opening of the gate (“wicket”).	Sliding gate weight up to 1200 kg, average work intensity (50%).	Sliding gate weight up to 1800 kg, average work intensity (50%).
   Current consumption=7.0 A; Power=170 W	Current consumption=2.6 A; Power=200 W	Current consumption=2.4 A; Power=300 W	Current consumption=3.3 A; Power=380 W	Current consumption=4.2 A; Power=480 W
   EACH SET CONTAINS : gearbox-drive (1 pc.), radio receiver AF43RU (1 pc.), TWIN2 remote control (2 pcs.)
   ADDITIONALLY, any set can be completed : antenna TOP-A433N (1 pc.), photocells DIR 10 (set of 2 pieces), signal lamp KLED 24B (1 pc.).

   Connection	Length of cable 1 < 10 м	Length of cable 10 < 20 м	Length of cable 20 < 30 м
   Supply voltage 230 V	3x1.5mm 2	3x2.5mm 2	3x4.0mm 2
   Signal lamp	2x0.5mm 2	2x1.0mm 2	2x1.5mm 2
   Photocells-transmitters	2x0.5mm 2	2x0.5mm 2	2x0.5mm 2
   Photocells-receivers	4x0.5mm 2	4x0.5mm 2	4x0.5mm 2
   Power supply for additional devices	2x0.5mm 2	2x0.5mm 2	2x1.0mm 2
   Control and safety devices	2x0.5mm 2	2x0.5mm 2	2x0.5mm 2
   Antenna connection	Coaxial cable RG58 or equivalent with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms

   In fact, all that needs to be done in advance is to connect the supply voltage to the gate drive (first line in the table above). Use a wire with a cross section of 3 x 1.5mm 2 or 3 x 2.5mm 2 .

   All other wires are short in length and can be installed directly during installation of the automation. The longest wire (of these others) that you will have to lay is a two-core wire, which should connect the photocells installed in two poles located opposite each other (see the very first picture at the beginning of this article).

   In addition to this, the only wire (going to the sliding gate from the panel), in principle, nothing else is needed, but if you want to be able to open and close the gate not only using remote controls, but also, for example, using buttons from the house, lay additionally twisted pair. If you plan to install an additional intercom (for communication from home with visitors at the gate and opening/closing gates, gates, etc.) - lay a twisted pair cable, a two-core power cable 2x0.5mm 2 or 2x0.75mm 2 from the house to the gate. If you plan to install an analog video camera (as part of the intercom or separately), lay an additional coaxial television cable with a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms.

   We remind you that in basic equipment The drive does not include photocells, a signal lamp, or an additional antenna; therefore, if you did not purchase them separately, you will not need any additional connections other than connecting the drive power cable. On the other hand, if you decide to purchase and connect them later, you can easily do so at any time. In this case, the maximum difficulty that you may encounter is the need to dig a small trench to lay the wire connecting the photocells on two poles on opposite sides of the gate opening.

   Automation installation sequence

   If you purchased not only a gate drive (the motor itself with a gearbox and gear assembly), but also a set of additional automation (photo sensors, signal lamp, additional antenna), then the automation is installed first and only then the drive - since all the wires are from auxiliary devices are brought out from the bottom up - from underground through the drive under the drive and then to the drive terminal blocks.

   1. First of all, we fix the rack at the bottom of the door leaf. At this stage, the height of its attachment is not very important. Do not worry that the drive gear may not engage the rack, since you can subsequently adjust the height of the drive itself (along with the gear) above its base using four adjusting screws.

      

      

   2. To attach the photocells, we need to lay a two-core wire between the internal posts of the sliding gate. If there are none, then I recommend digging in low additional posts on the side of the yard and attaching photocells to them. Can it be mounted on external poles? It is possible, but it is better to do it from the side of the courtyard for anti-vandal reasons. In our case, we already had internal pillars and we needed to install photo sensors on them and connect them with hidden wiring, for this it is necessary: ​​at a height of 50 cm from the ground, drill holes in both pillars directed inside the gate opening; dig a trench connecting both poles and lay a two-core wire in it in a case made of technical polyethylene pipe; gain access to the inside of the pipe from its lower end - for hidden wiring entry.

      

      

      

      

      

      

   3. We ran the wire underground, brought its ends up, first inside the pillars, then brought them out through drilled holes. Now we begin the installation of photo sensors. In this case, the photocells must first be fixed to the pole and only then can they be switched. Do not cut off the excess wire at the root! It is better to subsequently tuck the excess inside the pillar.

      

      

      

      

      

      
      
   4. We install a signal lamp and a remote additional antenna (if available). To do this, take the wires according to the table “ Typology of cables and their minimum cross-sections", published above. As a rule, this is a coaxial cable with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms for the antenna and a two-core wire with a cross-section of 2x1.0 mm for the signal lamp. The length of the wires is chosen so that it is enough to pass them from top to bottom inside the pole located closest to the others to the installation site of the drive itself. Remembering about vandals, we again recommend installing the signal lamp and antenna on an internal pole (if there is one), and not on an external one. If there is only one pole, mount it on it or weld a platform to it. To mount a signal lamp on the top end of a post, the post must be welded on top with a steel plate (rather than plugged with a plastic plug). The base of the lamp is installed on a flat surface and secured to it using self-tapping screws. Accordingly, it cannot be secured to the unwelded end of a hollow pipe. Many people simply weld a platform to the pipe (post).

      

      

      

      

      

      
      

      

      

      

      

      

      
      
   5. The heart of the entire system is the gate drive, so switching of all auxiliary devices is carried out on terminal groups installed on the drive. In this regard, we now need to connect all the wiring to the drive. All wiring going to the drive is connected to it in a hidden way - from below. To do this, there are holes in the base of the drive, and in the drive itself there is a small cable channel in order to pass all the wires through the drive, from bottom to top, to the terminal groups. Taking into account the above, we need to make a corresponding hole in the steel embed (cut using an angle grinder). Then, using a hammer drill, punch a channel passing through the hole in the embed down and to the side - into the trench for the drive.

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

   6. We weld the base of the gate drive to the mortgage using electric welding, and then adjust the height of the drive motor above its base using four adjusting screws. It is necessary to ensure that the drive gear engages with the rack (but there must be a small gap between the gear and rack!).

      

A beautiful gate is good, but a beautiful automatic gate is even better. There are a considerable number of companies that will make gates and install automation, but as usual, you want to save money: their services are not cheap. Many companies sell automation kits, but you can install and connect it yourself. You'll save several thousand. But in this case, you need to clarify whether the warranty is still valid (it happens, but rarely), and if so, what is a warranty case and what is not, and what to do in the event of a breakdown (it is often necessary to remove the drives for testing and take them to the company). So, do-it-yourself automatic gates may not be so profitable. Decide for yourself. To be fair, it must be said that if you built the fence yourself, and the gate automation is installed by the company, many faults will be attributed to an incorrect foundation, installation of beams, etc. So in this case too warranty repair- rare.

Automation for swing gates: types of drives

Automatic swing gates are operated by two types of mechanisms: linear and lever. Any of them can open the canvas both inward and outward: the direction of opening depends on the installation. But in some cases there are certain restrictions that force the use of a certain type of mechanism when opening the gate inward.

Linear actuator

The mechanism is very simple and reliable. Outwardly it looks like an oblong case. Inside is worm-gear- a long screw - which is driven by a gearbox installed in the rear of the housing. When the gearbox is turned on, the worm gear pushes or pulls the sash.

Linear automatic drive for swing gates

The housing of the linear drive for automatic swing gates is made and covered with metal powder paint. They can be installed on gates of any type and weight. How larger sizes, weight and windage, the more powerful motors and massive transmission are required.

Place it on a pole opposite one of the horizontal beams - optional. But the best option is approximately in the middle of the canvas height.

Lever drive

The second type of automation for swing gates is lever. It consists of a gearbox hidden in the body and two movably connected levers that resemble a protruding elbow.

The block with the gearbox is mounted on a pole, the lever is attached to the sash. This device allows you to open the gate inward, even if the pillars are very wide.

One type of lever mechanism is underground drives. Often they are separated into a separate group. In this case, the gearbox is hidden in a metal box, which is concreted near the pole. Only the lever remains outside.

Which type to choose

Externally, many people prefer a linear drive - it is more compact. But on wide pillars, when the doors open inwards, it cannot be installed, in any case, without modifying the pillar. If you really don’t want to install a lever one, make a niche in the column at the required height, removing part of the masonry or concrete.

When the sash is opened inward, the rear part of the drive is attached to the surface of the post facing the yard using a special bracket. If the distance from this surface to the place where the sash is attached is more than 8 cm (in the figure the distance is indicated by the letter “C”), then it will not be possible to install a linear drive - it simply will not reach the sash. There are, however, some models that can be installed at C = 12 cm, but there are not many of them.

If the gate opens outward - to the street, then the drive is mounted on the surface of the post, which faces towards the opening. At the same time, it protrudes by about 20 cm. Since there are two drives for double-leaf gates, they will narrow the opening by 40 cm. This also needs to be kept in mind, especially if it is a garage door. In this case, it is worth installing the drive so that it is higher than the machine and does not interfere with maneuvers.

Additional equipment

The standard set for any type of automation includes two drives - right and left, and a control unit for them. Some companies include two control panels and a code receiver in the basic kit, but in some these devices are available as an option and are purchased separately. When comparing models and prices, carefully study the completeness of the basic package.

In addition to remote controls, it is possible to use programmable key fobs - if more than two people can operate the gate. A useful option is the installation of photocells. When opening/closing doors, they react to objects in the field of action (cats, dogs, elderly people or children who did not have time to pass within a given period of time) and stops the movement of the door until the object disappears.

A useful addition would be a warning light. It is relevant if the gate opens onto a busy part of the street, warning passers-by.

What you will need when purchasing

When selecting a model, you should definitely ask what size the gate is, what it is made of, or what the weight of the door is. You will need the parameters of the pillars, the distance from the edge to the hinges. To make it easier to explain, draw a plan of the gate indicating all dimensions. Photos may be needed to make the selection correct. We need a general plan and close-up loops and method of fastening them.

Automation for sliding gates

All drives for installation on sliding gates have the same design: there is a drive with a drive gear and a rack attached to the gate leaf. The rotating motor moves the rack, together with the gate. All this is controlled from the control panel located on the side. Almost all models allow you to open/close gates using remote controls. To receive their signals, you need to install an antenna and configure the remote controls (program them).

When choosing this type of automation, you need to pay attention to technical specifications and additional functions.

Some subtleties internal structure drives for sliding automatic gates, see the video.

Now comments to the video. The power comparison in this video is not entirely correct. Eat different models for gates different sizes and masses. The minimum threshold is 400 kg, the maximum in households is up to 1200 kg, in industrial applications more than 2000 kg. When comparing capacities, the first copy is taken from the “lightest” category - up to 400 kg, the rest are for gates of greater weight. Therefore, such a comparison is biased. Although no one says that among the little-known brands there are, and therefore cost less, there are good quality ones. Perhaps those shown in the video are like that...

About the same picture regarding gears. All drives are divided into three classes: household, semi-industrial and industrial. In household ones, the resource is the lowest and the intensity of use is the lowest - the motor will work continuously for approximately 30-40% of the total time, otherwise it will overheat and be turned off automatically (if any). This class is the cheapest, which is why the cheapest components are installed there - plastic and silumin. Not all manufacturers and not in all lines, but this is rather the rule, and in low-power household-class drives it is difficult to find gears made of steel, and especially brass. However, under normal operating conditions for this type, they work normally - they exhaust their resource, but that’s all. For this reason, you need to be thoughtful when choosing a class and monitor the service life declared by the manufacturers (available in the technical specifications).

What to indicate when purchasing

Having decided on the functions and parameters that you consider necessary, you need to look for a suitable model. When choosing in a store, sellers will ask for the following information:

1. Type of supporting system (cantilever, on rail, on top beam).
2. Dimensions and weight (at least approximate) of the canvas.
3. Intensity of use: how many people and how often can use the device.

The seller must require all this data from you: otherwise he cannot determine the required power. equipment. If , You may need such parameters as the distance between the roller supports, the parameters of the foundation and the distance from it to the door leaf. All this is necessary to correctly select the physical parameters of the drive.

About control panels (key fobs) and encoding types

All remote controls can be divided into two main groups:

How key fobs with a fixed code work

These devices record their own signal (frequency or combination of frequencies) for a specific action. When they receive a certain signal, they begin to perform the corresponding action. Is it good or bad? More likely - bad. That's why. There are a large number of electronics around us, controlled from remote controls. They can easily give such a signal. For example, a neighbor, by changing the parameters of his lamp, can open or close your gate. This is because the signal is similar and your gate control unit is within range. The same situation can happen with any other radio-controlled device. Therefore, owners of remote controls with fixed frequencies often do not understand why the gate opens by itself. Worse, there were situations when, upon arriving at the dacha or home, they saw open gate. It’s just that one of the closest neighbors used some kind of remote control for their equipment, or a thief did it. You can solve the problem by reprogramming the remote control, setting other buttons/frequencies, but this is not a guarantee that the motor will work only from your remote control: the frequency range is limited.

The second negative point is that the fixed code is easy to read (recorded on a special device, and then reproduced if necessary). This is a boon for attackers. Since automatic drives act as a lock, you can’t open them without a remote control from the outside; having the right frequencies, it’s easy to get inside.

Which coding system to choose for the control panel...

Operating principle of floating code remotes

Key fobs of the second type have a certain number of codes written in memory. The figure is large—several hundred thousand or millions. After each use, the code changes to the next one in the chain. When accepted by the control device, it is analyzed. If the received signal is the next one in the chain, the action is performed; if it is different, there is no reaction.

This algorithm solves two problems at once: the ability to control your gate through your neighbor’s remote control, and the ability to write down codes. No, you can write them down, but in order for the gate to work, you need to have all the codes written down in the correct sequence.

It is clear that the control equipment when using floating code is more complex and, therefore, more expensive, but security is more expensive... No?

Most companies offer both encoding systems for any drive, so the choice is yours.

Homemade drives: video

For those for whom “do-it-yourself automatic gates” means not only installing ready set automation, and also to assemble it completely, video reports on how and from what they have already been made will be useful. For example, from a drill...

The drive is made from the washing machine engine.

\

Homemade automation for swing gates

It was made on this drive.

Connection diagram car alarm.

Automatic entry gate control makes it easier and safer for a vehicle to enter a property or garage. The advantages of the electric drive are obvious - you can open and close the doors directly from the car’s interior, and in order to let guests’ cars into the snow-covered yard you don’t have to say goodbye (even if only for a short time) to the warm, cozy room. The high price of high-quality, factory-made automation forces craftsmen to look for more available options. And they are there. Today, you can build reliable automatic gates with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be found in the garage or bought for next to nothing at market stalls.

Automatic gates: features, advantages and disadvantages

If you do not take into account overly original designs, then all existing gates can be divided into three groups:

• recoil;
• swing;
• garage.

Swing structures have the richest history and are familiar to everyone because of their two doors, which are attached to the side support posts using hinges. Such gates are simple and reliable, but require space to open before entering the site or yard. Swinging doors are an indispensable option for narrow passages and, in comparison with other designs, have maximum reliability. The biggest disadvantage of this type of gate is the increased requirements for the stability of the side posts. Insufficient rigidity of the pillars over time leads to their tilting, and this, in turn, causes the sashes to jam. The disadvantage is that their automation requires a pair of synchronously operating drives, while other systems require only one actuator.

To automatically open swing gates you will need a pair of synchronously operating drives

Sliding gates have a leaf that can be moved to the side literally right next to the fence. Depending on the supporting surface, sliding systems are divided into three types:

The sliding system is the most practical because it does not depend on the availability of space in front of the entrance.

Sliding gates today are used both in private households and for equipping parking lots, open areas and various industrial facilities

As for the disadvantages, these include the need for arranging a foundation and a more complex design than that of swing gates. In addition, it is impossible to install a roadway that moves to the side in a narrow area - at least 5 additional meters will be required to the side from the passage. Despite this, sliding gates are the easiest to automate and are distinguished by the highest convenience and reliability in operation.

Although all the structures described above are suitable for arranging a garage, lift-and-turn, sectional and roller shutter mechanisms are considered “true garage” ones. Such systems are the most difficult to manufacture in handicraft conditions, so they are practically not used by home craftsmen.

Drives for automation

There are several ways to convert the rotational motion of the electric motor shaft into the translational motion of the actuator:

• using a crank mechanism;
• screw or worm gear;
• by means of a rack and a gear;
• chain transmission.

Using these kinematic schemes, a reliable, efficient drive can be built even in a garage or small home workshop.

For swing doors

To make swing gates automatic, linear or lever type drives are installed on their leaves. The first include mechanisms with a worm or screw drive, operating on the principle of changing the length of the rod. Lever designs are those whose operating principle resembles the movement of a hand. They consist of two levers that are connected by a movable hinge.

Factory drive linear type

Linear actuators are most often used - they can be installed on swing gates with leaves that open in any direction. If the canvases are hung on stone or brick pillars, then it is easier to use one of the lever mechanisms - they are not so demanding on the location of the fulcrum.

In homemade conditions, linear systems for automatic gate opening are most often represented by factory actuators for satellite antennas or homemade drives with a screw drive. For lever structures, ready-made mechanisms are also used - they are drives for automatic window lifters or windshield wipers. As for homemade products, you can find them online original solutions from a gear motor and a composite lever.

At home, a drive for swing gates can be made from car window regulators

Automation for sliding curtain

To mechanize sliding gates, you can use a factory automation kit, which includes a drive, a rack and a control unit with sensors. If you want to save money, then no less reliable system can be assembled from a suitable electric motor with a gearbox, a pair of sprockets and a long chain from automotive or agricultural machinery.

Scheme of a homemade drive for sliding gates

Manufacturing of automatic swing gates

For swing gates, the industry produces a variety of lever and linear type drives, designed for different supply voltages and opening forces. These mechanisms are highly durable, reliable and can ensure the operation of the structure in any weather conditions. They could be called perfect choice, there’s just one thing - for a couple of simple actuators and a control unit you’ll have to pay more than 300 euros. That is why it is best to make automatic swing gates yourself.

Swing gate design

Preparatory activities

To make the gate convenient and practical, several factors must be taken into account:

• installation location;
• opening method - inward or outward;
• sashes dimensions;
• type and method of installation of support posts;
• type, as well as method and mounting points of drives;
• method of laying cables to actuators;
• type of power (only from the mains or with a backup battery);
• design features of the clamp;

In addition, you will need to take into account the characteristics of the materials from which the gates will be made. Only after answering this question can you begin to design the structure and select the drive.

Sash size

When determining the size of the gate, they are guided by the width of the cars that will enter the site. For the passage of passenger vehicles, an opening of 2.5 m will be sufficient, while trucks and tractors will require a roadway with a width of 3.5 m. It is also necessary to take into account whether cars can drive at right angles to the opening. In the case when the narrow road near the site does not allow the necessary maneuver, the passage is widened by 1.2 - 1.5 times. In addition, pay attention to whether the open doors will protrude onto the roadway. In cases where the design of the gate does not exclude this possibility, it is necessary to add twice the thickness of one leaf to the size of the opening.

If the configuration of the site allows you to make a wide gate, you should not neglect this opportunity. Who knows, maybe in a couple of years a construction crane or dump truck will need to be driven onto the site? As practice shows, an opening 4–4.5 m wide will be sufficient for the passage of any vehicle.

Material selection

Steel profile pipes are best suited for the manufacture of gate frames - they have high strength and, very importantly, make the structure as rigid as possible. Suitable for filling the door leaf:

• metal sheets;
• polycarbonate;
• corrugated sheeting;
• boards or picket fence;
• forging.

Gates with a combination look elegant and original various materials. For example, forged elements with a base made of polycarbonate or wood.

Swing gates can be made openwork, filled with metal rods or forged elements

As a rule, the thickness of the owner’s wallet has the greatest influence on the choice of material for gates. However, if you make the sashes yourself, you can save on paying a specialist and thereby choose more expensive forging or stamping.

For the manufacture of support posts, you can choose:

• steel pipes or channels;
• hardwood timber;
• reinforced concrete;
• stone or brickwork.

The choice of material from which the pillars will be made should take into account the weight of the canvases. Otherwise, under the weight of the gates, the racks will converge and closing the gate will require significant effort - normal operation of automatic devices in such conditions is out of the question.

The manufacture of swing gates is not very complicated, and their design involves the use of original sketches. There is no need to follow any drawing exactly - it all depends on the imagination and financial viability of the owner of the site. Nevertheless, we present to your attention drawings and diagrams of automatic swing gates. We hope they will help you create your own project without difficult errors and annoying oversights.

Photo gallery: diagrams and drawings of automatic gates

Swing gates with a wicket embedded in one of the leaves Swing gates with double corrugated sheeting Swing gates with a wicket and reinforced frame Swing gates without wicket Automation scheme for swinging doors Scheme electrical connections swing gate drive Swing gate automation scheme

What you will need during the work process

To build swing gates you will need a lot of different materials:

• for mounting support posts - metal pipes, stone or brick. If the pillars are made in the form of masonry, then the metal for the mortgages should be prepared;
• for the manufacture of the frame - profile pipes with a cross section from 60x60 mm to 40x20 mm;
• to fill the frame - steel sheets, corrugated sheets, wood, polycarbonate or forged elements;
• loops;
• parts of the locking mechanism.

Hinges with a mating plane and a support bearing are best suited for equipping automatic swing gates.

Embedded parts are metal elements that are installed in masonry joints for subsequent fastening of sashes and other structural parts. Made from thick sheet steel, metal corners, channels, etc.

To ensure the stability of the structure, the metal posts will need to be concreted, and a foundation will need to be built under the pillars from stone and brick. To do this, you will need to bring sand, crushed stone and cement to the site.

You can make a swing gate drive from new or used parts and components from vehicles and household appliances. So, the following are suitable parts for an automatic opening mechanism:

It is very easy to make a remote control system from a simple car alarm by connecting the electric motors of the drives through a regular 12-volt relay. In addition to these parts, you will need limit switches, a signal lamp and mounting wires.

To make gates, you do not need any special tools or any professional equipment. As for the automatic drive, it all depends on its design - some parts may have to be turned on a machine or ordered from a familiar turner. For the rest, you should prepare or purchase:

• welding machine (preferably a small inverter that is easy to move around the site);
• angle grinder (popularly “grinder”);
• riveter;
• electric drill with a set of metal drills;
• set of wrenches;
• roulette;
• building level;
• scriber made of tool steel.

In addition, for excavation and concrete work you will need shovels, containers for bulk materials and mortar, formwork materials and compactors. Don't forget that metal surfaces you will need to protect it from atmospheric influences, so buy a rust converter, metal primer and alkyd paint for outdoor work.

Construction stages

Step-by-step instructions for making automatic swing gates will allow you to systematize the process and avoid errors in operation.

Installation of support posts

Installation of support posts with and without reinforcement

Metal or wooden poles must go into the ground to a depth of at least 1 m, otherwise they will shift from the vertical position under the weight of the doors. In order to install supports, you must:

With a significant mass of each canvas, as well as in the case of making pillars from stone or brick, lower ligation of metal posts and arrangement of the foundation will be required.

Gain support pillars and foundation for installing automatic swing gates

The work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

After pouring, the concrete must sit for at least 10 days, which can be spent on making the sashes. Throughout this period, the base of the supports is periodically watered - this will increase its strength and avoid cracking.

Welding of sashes

To frame during welding work not twisted by the “propeller”, it is recommended to arrange a simple slipway in a clean and level place. For this they use wooden blocks and slats from which a flat horizontal structure is assembled.

Jig for welding sashes

The main reason that leads to disruption of the geometry of the sashes during operation is wind load. Therefore, the gate frame must be as rigid as possible - this is especially true for doors filled with materials such as polycarbonate and corrugated sheets. The best material for the manufacture of a frame, it is considered profiled steel pipe. The installation procedure of the supporting frame is carried out in several steps:

After this, the counter parts of the hinges are welded to the posts and the sashes are hung in place. Proceed to painting work It’s still early - this is done after the brackets for attaching the drive mechanism are installed.

When installing the sashes in place, you can use any suitable supports.

How to build a drive

After installing the gate, begin installing the automatic drive. To determine which of the mechanisms - linear or lever - is suitable, measure the distance between the plane of the canvas and the outer edge of the post (marked with the letter M in the lower figure).

Installation diagram of a linear drive on swing gates

If the specified size exceeds 150 mm, then a lever mechanism is used. Otherwise, you can install a linear type drive. It is more modern and aesthetic. If linear automation needs to be installed on massive pillars made of stone or brick, then niches with mortgages are made in the masonry to mount the drive.

Mounting the actuator in a niche is one way to combine a linear drive with massive poles

A linear gate opener with leaves weighing up to 100 kg can be made from two actuators for satellite dishes. All that is needed for this is to attach brackets to the gate leaves and posts to secure them. When choosing actuators, preference is given to devices with a rod stroke of at least 350 mm.

For heavier gates, you can make a linear drive yourself. Here's what you'll need for this:

In the process of work, you will need the same grinder, welding inverter and electric drill, as well as another locksmith tool, which every owner has.

The drive is manufactured according to the following scheme:

1. Remove the protective cover from the jack, dismantle the handle and gears. Using locking rings and washers, a retainer is constructed to prevent longitudinal play of the screw.

   A used jack must be completely disassembled and cleaned.

2. Using a grinder, dismantle the supporting platform of the lifting device.
3. The windshield wiper mechanism is disassembled - in the future you will only need an electric motor with a gearbox.

   Windshield wiper motor assembly with gearbox

4. From a segment profile pipe A 20x20 cm 6–8 cm long connecting coupling is made, which is attached to the jack screw.

   Installation of the connecting coupling is carried out by welding

5. A square rod 18x18 mm is drilled and a thread is cut for the gearbox shaft.
6. Mount the mating part of the connecting coupling onto the windshield wiper motor.

   Mounting the connecting plate

7. A series of drillings are made in the corners of the plate, corresponding to the connecting dimensions of the gearbox housing.
8. The electric motor and screw part are assembled using long studs and nuts.

   Homemade gate drive assembly

Another option for making a drive from a “Zhiguli” jack is shown in the figure below. The mechanism looks more cumbersome, but there is no need to dismantle the planetary gear and think about fixing the working screw.

Another drive option from a wiper motor and a jack from a VAZ “classic”

In the case when only a lever mechanism is suitable for gate automation, you can use the window lift drive of a GAZ car or modify any suitable gearbox with a pair of levers.

Window lift drive for GAZ car

To connect the drive to a 220 V network, a step-down transformer with a 12 V rectifier is used. To turn off the electric motor in extreme positions, limit switches are used. In this case, it is necessary to think about how the engine will be reversed. Perhaps several electrical circuits that are used on real structures can help you with this.

Photo gallery: electrical connection diagrams for automatic gate drive parts

Electrical circuit diagram with relay for swing gate drive Connection diagram for swing gate drive elements Scheme for implementing reverse

Drive installation and configuration

To install the drive, it is necessary to weld conventional U-shaped brackets to the posts and sashes, which will provide a movable connection.

Interface between the drive and the gate leaf

It is best to use hardened bolts with a diameter of 8–10 mm as the axis of rotation. It is better not to use galvanized Chinese hardware from the nearest construction store - too soft steel will wear out quickly, and this does not contribute to reliability and safety.

And now - some useful tips on installing and configuring the drive from specialists who install automatic gates:

• the device is installed with an electric motor and a lever downwards, preferably along the upper edge of the canvas;
• First of all, the mechanism is attached to the pillars, and then to the gate leaves;
• after installing the drive, the gate must be opened manually and the operation of the limit switches must be adjusted;
• The power supply should be connected when the drive is locked;
• in order to avoid damage to the electric motor when the doors are blocked, a device is introduced into the electrical circuit that turns off the network when the current increases sharply;
• A signal lamp is installed in a visible place, which will turn on when voltage is applied to the electric motors.

After installation, check the smooth opening and clear operation of the limit switches. The electric motor and gearbox are protected from precipitation using covers that can be made from improvised materials.

Video: swing gates with a homemade electric drive

For a person who knows how to handle welding machine and “grinder”, making entrance or garage doors is commonplace. Automating the process of opening them is a completely different matter. Many give in to more complex design Due to the lack of a drive, others are intimidated by the electrical part. Nevertheless, it is not difficult to make a reliable, efficient opening system. The main thing is that its mechanism matches the type of sashes and their weight.

You will learn about assembling an electrical control circuit with your own hands. We will tell you how to connect different types of motors and assemble starting equipment, and also reveal the secrets of smooth starting and stopping of automatic sliding gates.

Depending on the type of motor you choose, you can use different connection methods. Not only the electrical connection diagram will differ, but also the permissible current parameters.

Attention! When working with the electrical part, do not forget about safety precautions: weld a bolt to the stationary frame, which will be used to connect to the ground loop.

Motor connection

A three-phase motor with a rated voltage of 380/220 V must have a star connection when connected to a three-phase power supply. You can change the direction of rotation by swapping the connection of any two of the three phases.

If you are trying to connect a three-phase motor to a single-phase network, give preference to the capacitive method. In this case, use a starting capacitor with a obviously higher capacity (2-3 times) and add a pair of compensating capacitors for the two remaining windings in working assembly, or provide for disconnecting the starting capacitor using a time relay. The capacity of the working capacitor is selected at the rate of 70-80 uF per 1 kW of power, and the nominal value is 450 V.

A single-phase capacitor motor has four wires in the assembly, that is, two ends of the starting and operating windings. The standard terminal block pin markings are as follows:

1. Terminals U1 and U2 (or B1 and B2) are the main winding.
2. Terminals W2 and V2 (or C1 and C2) - starting winding.
3. Terminals V2 and V1 are the starting capacitor.

The connection to the start winding remains constant, while the polarity of the run winding supply can be changed to change the direction of rotation.

Note: The polarity is determined by the position of the jumpers on the motor terminal strip, the closure of which will be performed remotely through the contactor.

Launch equipment

To assemble the electrical circuit, you will need two IEK KMI 1121 magnetic starters with a coil supply voltage of 230 V, or one PML 2561 reversing starter (the latter has the advantage of having a mechanical interlock). There should be three main contacts.

It is also necessary to have a block of an auxiliary contact group, including one normally open and one normally closed contact. Additionally, you will need an IEK KP103 push-button housing with three buttons “Start”, “Reverse” and “Stop”. To install the post on the street side, it is recommended to equip it with key-locked buttons. All switching electrical equipment must be installed in metal box with degree of protection IP54 and gland entries for wires.

Connect the input contacts of the two starters in parallel, supplying them with phase and neutral from the 220 V network through a circuit breaker. On the back side of the starters, connect two power wires to the starting winding.

Using the AIR 80 engine as an example, power must be supplied to terminals V1 and W2. Please note that the polarity remains the same regardless of which starter is turned on. Terminals U1 and U2 belong to the ends of the working winding and must be connected to the two starters in different sequences.

Power to the coils of each starter must be supplied through its own normally open and normally closed contacts of the second starter. This will ensure self-catching and keep the coil in the on state, and also provide electrical blocking of the oncoming start.

Push-button stations and limit switches

The drive is controlled by one or more push-button stations. Phase wire is passed through the series-connected normally closed contacts of the “Stop” buttons, which is necessary to be able to break the coil holding circuit from any button.

Next, power is supplied to the normally closed contacts of the “Start” and “Reverse” buttons, then from the terminals of each button power is supplied to the normally open pair of the opposite one. These contacts control the activation of the coils of the corresponding starters. Cross-connection via normally open contacts is necessary to avoid unintentional switching of starters.

In order for the drive to turn itself off in a timely manner when the gate reaches the extreme points of opening and closing, the electrical circuit must be supplemented with limit switches. Switches VPK-2112 or ME 8104 with one normally closed contact are suitable. It is recommended to use products equipped with a roller.

Limit switches must be firmly fixed to the stationary gate frame so that the roller is 1-2 mm from any longitudinal element gate This can be a supporting frame or a rail guide, the main thing is that the side surface is absolutely flat. The gate must be placed first in the open, then in the closed position and mark the points of contact with the rollers.

Note! Since massive gates continue to move by inertia, it is recommended to move the marks a few centimeters in the opposite direction so that the limit switch is triggered with a slight advance.

According to the applied marks, you need to weld small protrusions, the height of which will be sufficient for reliable operation of the switch. It is also important that the tag is of sufficient length and holds the roller, and does not slip through it, briefly turning on the limit switch. The switch must be in the trip position until it begins to move in the opposite direction, when it leaves the mark and closes the circuit again.

The electrical connection of limit switches can be done in two ways.

Connection diagram for push-button posts and limit switches

Method number 1. The normally closed contacts are connected in series and are included in the holding circuit of the contactor coils. The switching point is located between the series-connected “Stop” buttons and the normally open contacts of the starters. The disadvantage of this method is that when turning on the gate, you need to hold the button pressed for a certain time until the switch leaves the operation position.

Method number 2. It implies independent activation of limit switches in the coil holding circuits of each starter. The normally closed switch contact is located between the normally open auxiliary contact of the starter and the coil terminal. It is also allowed to place the switch in the electrical interlocking circuit: between the coil of one and the normally closed contact of the second starter. Thus, the switches operate independently of each other, which means that there is no time delay required when turning on the drive.

Gate control via frequency converter

Since frequency converters have recently become more and more accessible and popular, it is appropriate to use them to control the gate drive, especially since there is more than one reason for this:

1. Because the frequency converter supplies the drive with three-phase power, you save money by purchasing a more common, lower-power motor.
2. Engine speed does not matter.
3. Difficulties with connecting a three-phase motor are eliminated.
4. You avoid problems with starting the drive under load.
5. The converter smoothly but quickly accelerates and stops the gate, opening occurs in a matter of seconds.
6. No need to buy and install a gearbox.
7. No need for starters, simple electrical circuit.
8. The service life of the engine is significantly increased.

The average cost of a device with an output power of 2-2.5 kW is $250-300, so its purchase is quite justified taking into account the refusal to purchase a gearbox and starters.

The CFM-240 frequency converter is a budget option device, it also has the most common connection and control scheme. Following his example, you can easily understand similar devices.

Frequency converter connection

Terminals L and N are used to supply, respectively, phase and zero from the 220 V network; it is important to observe polarity here. Terminals U, V and W provide the output voltage for three-phase power supply asynchronous motor for a voltage of 380/220 V, the windings of which are connected in a triangle. Control occurs by closing one of the control contacts DI1-DI3 to the common GND terminal. Accordingly, when DI1 and GND are closed, the motor starts, DI2 and GND will start the drive in the opposite direction, and DI3 and GND will stop it.

Principle of setting the frequency converter

Configuring the converter is done by changing the values ​​of each of the 70 parameters. Full description functions and set values ​​are indicated in the device passport. To adjust the values, you need to enter the parameter selection menu by pressing the “Mode” button until P--- is displayed on the display. Then you need to press “enter” and use the “up” and “down” arrows to select the number of the desired parameter, press “enter” again, set the desired value and press “enter” again to save.

Using a frequency converter gives some additional features. For example, you can use the positioning function by transferring data from the gate position sensor to the inverter. This will allow you to use the device in stepper motor. It will smoothly accelerate the gate and gently stop it in extreme point, remembering both extreme positions of the canvas. This is a more convenient and advanced replacement for the limit switch system. You only need to install a “quadrature encoder” type counter on the drive mechanism shaft.

The meter has two power wires that connect to the +12V and GND terminals, as well as two signal wires that connect to terminals DI5 and DI6. The positioning function is enabled by assigning the value “2” to parameter 60. Next, you need to set the value “1” to parameter 61 to set the desired sensor type. Then, changing the values ​​of parameters 62 and 63, determine the relationship between the number of pulses and the distance traveled.

For example, the motor shaft can move the gate 25 cm per revolution, and the encoder mounted on the shaft produces 200 pulses per revolution. This means that for every 1000 mm set in parameter 62, there will be 800 sensor pulses set in parameter 63.

Parameter 66 determines the type of braking; it must be assigned the value “1”. Parameter 67 determines the engine speed to which the maximum operating speed will be reduced, and the value of parameter 68 determines the required braking distance. Having configured the specified parameters, you can go to the main menu and specify the distance that the gate must travel, in millimeters. After completing the task, the counter will be reset to zero and will be ready for a new cycle, counting in both directions.

The rated motor rotation speed is set by the output frequency (Hz) in the main menu of the program. You can change it in real time and increase it as long as the transmission mechanism remains stable. Also remember that too much acceleration will not allow the converter to effectively reduce speed at the end of the path. Drive acceleration time to maximum speed is specified by the value in seconds of parameter 10.

Setting gate braking using a frequency converter

Gates that are too massive require braking by the drive. For this purpose, the frequency converter has a function enabled by parameter 21. The braking force and the time required to complete a stop are set by parameters 27 and 28, respectively. When braking by the drive, load compensation must be used. To do this, you need to connect power resistors with a resistance of at least 70 Ohms and a power of over 350 W to the power terminals Br (they can also be replaced with a bunch of 4-5 incandescent lamps connected in series).

Now you have several options for connecting the motor and can choose the method that suits your needs. Each connection method can have a remote control circuit, which we will discuss in the next article.

If you have already appreciated the advantage of sliding gates, which you have mechanical, then nothing will prevent you from adding comfort, for which you will need automation for sliding gates, the presence of electricity in the area where the automation will operate and the desire to do it yourself.

Despite the variety of types of sliding gates, automation as a whole is designed according to a general principle, so the DIY installation process is almost the same. Automation for sliding gates includes a remote control device, a switching controller, a security system, a signaling system, a drive, as well as a mechanism that transmits torque in the horizontal direction to ensure movement.

The order of work is as follows: we provide an electrical connection, install the transmission mechanism, ensure its interface with the drive, and make sure that the automation operates from remote control. Now, in order.

First stage.

The first stage of work will be the selection of correctly selected automation for sliding gates It will last a long time, and it will be easier to install. In this case, we pay special attention not only to the technical specifications (which should be taken with reserve), but also to the installation instructions. In practice, there have been situations when automatic sliding gates, which have good feedback, was installed incorrectly due to inaccuracies in the instructions, or due to deviations from the instructions.

Please note that automatic sliding gates require careful and step-by-step adherence to the instructions, especially if you install them yourself!

After selecting and reading the instructions, you need to check the functionality of the system by assembling and connecting all components, right down to the warning lamp and photocells of the security system. The main goal is to ensure that the automation will perform as expected.

We do not provide wire cross-sections; this information must be taken from technical passport set! After testing is completed, we proceed to the next stage.

Second phase. Preparatory work.

• we mark the installation locations of all elements (automation for sliding gates is a distributed system);
• We evaluate how we can connect cables to all elements of the system, what of these works can be done with our own hands and what cannot;
• we check how well the gate runs on the rollers, understanding that the automation of sliding gates will fail the faster the greater the resistance to movement;
• We evaluate the gates very carefully, in terms of gaps, and find places to install photocells. This, important element, automatic sliding gates that do not have a stop signal are dangerous! Particular attention must be paid to the passage of the light beam while the gate is moving, otherwise false alarms can lead to the fact that you get so tired of the automatic sliding gate that you turn it off;
• after marking and measuring the dimensions, we close the gate, carefully inspect whether we have provided for everything;
• Do not forget that automation also requires “weak” cables, which must be reliably protected from damage;

Having completed this work, we begin to draw a diagram of the connections that the sliding gate automation requires, after which, once again, checking the instructions, we make sure that all the automation will be connected correctly.

Advice. Having completed these works, do not rush to begin execution. Two or three days will not help the weather, and the rush may not allow you to remember something important!

After we have thought through all the details, we begin laying cables to the equipment installation sites. All cables in the opening must be reliably protected, for example, hidden in metal pipes and corrugation. We make cable connections to the sensors with a larger margin; you may have to change something locally. At the point where the power supply is connected to the electricity, we install a separate circuit breaker. The instructions indicate the currents; we select the machine so that it turns off first.

If you don’t know how to choose, consult with someone who understands electrics. The task is to ensure automatic power off before something in the automation burns out. Let there be more outages than there could be, but at the same time you will be insured against burnt boards, electronic components and other elements of the system.

If possible, power the automation through a voltage stabilizer. When laying cables, use a simple rule - the cable must be protected as much as possible from external damage, providing quick access for repairs, if necessary.

A good solution was the idea of ​​laying the cable laid in the opening not in a pipe, but covering it on top with a channel, supported so as not to damage the cable. When it became necessary to replace the cable after a short circuit, we simply raised the channel.

Third stage. Installation of drive and rack.

The most difficult, main stage in the works. It is necessary to ensure the mating of the drive gear on the drive and the gear rack in the part of the gate where the supporting rollers are located (usually the lower part, less often the upper). First, you need to mark the required length of the rail, taking into account the tolerances along the edges for installing the limit switches.

Obviously, the length of the rail ensures that the gate moves across the entire width of the opening. Before starting work, we lay out all the parts of the slats, check that the end parts are joined together in such a way as to form a full-fledged “tooth”!

You need to install the drive and rack with your own hands in three operations:

• at the drive installation site we mark a platform for the base, after which we set the height of this platform;
• we determine the installation location of the gear rack (ATTENTION - the rack cannot be attached to the guide beam!);
• We temporarily fix the rail (there are many ways, choose the most convenient one), setting the correct gap (the instructions contain instructions on what it should be).

In idle mode, check the correct engagement of the drive gear and the teeth on the rack. As a rule, slats are sold in meter lengths, so we start from the central part to determine the height and correctness of the horizontal level. The first rack must be positioned so that the gear is in the middle of the first element of the rack.

This is a very painstaking work, so everything must be done without haste, checking literally down to the millimeter the correctness of the pairing. Only after checking can the drive be secured.

Advice! Depending on the design of the part of the gate frame where we place the slats, we can move the slats higher or lower, or we cannot. Determine which makes it easier to change the mating mounting height, the drive, or the rack. Finally, the element that is most difficult to move in height should be fixed first!

• we temporarily fix all the elements, joining them together;
• check horizontality and absence of distortions;
• Having secured it so that the mechanism becomes operational, we carefully check the movement of the gate leaf, minimizing the load on the interface between the gear and rack;
• Using adjusting screws, we adjust individual parts of the rack if necessary.

Having completed this stage, we check the correct operation of the mechanism again. It is known that sliding gates have virtually no shrinkage or sagging over time. However, the rack adjustment should be left in a position that allows it to be raised or lowered if necessary. The extreme position of the adjusting screws indicates that an error was made in installing the rack.

Only after completing all this work can you finally secure the rail in order to test the assembled sliding gate drive and begin installing the remaining systems.

Fourth stage. Safety system.

As a rule, automatic sliding gates have built-in protection and blocking elements, but photocells that monitor the presence of obstacles to the movement of the gate must be mounted separately. Do not rely on the operator stopping due to increased load when the sliding gate hits an obstacle. The mechanism cannot be stopped instantly, and the sliding gate can turn into a guillotine! Technically, a security system can be assembled with your own hands from individual elements, but it is more correct to choose the kit that includes this system.

We have already outlined the areas for placing photocells. We check the operation of the system by attaching the sensors in place and connecting them to the drive control unit. When the sliding gate moves, we pass through the opening, crossing the beam of light between the photocells.

The drive should stop and begin moving back to the “gate open” position. There are varieties of such systems, when triggered, the sliding gates will stop and not move back completely - by a given distance, which, as a rule, can be adjusted. In this case, adjust the settings as necessary before fixing the photocells!

We check the operation of the system, the correctness of the settings, and then finally fix the photocells at the installation sites.

The signal lamp is installed in such a way that it is clearly visible from both sides of the gate, in a place that is not blocked by obstacles. We check the functionality of the signal (sometimes the automation is equipped with an additional sound signal, if it is not there, but it is needed - making an additional circuit with your own hands is not difficult; connect a sound device parallel to the lamp, placing it next to the lamp). When choosing a location, do not forget that light bulbs burn out, so access to the signal lamp should not be too difficult.

The final stage.

Install remote control so that your sliding gate can be opened from the outside and from the inside. We check the functionality, and then fix the sensor.

We carry out a full check of the operation of all systems in all modes.

We redraw the system diagram “after the fact”, noting, among other things, the color of the connection cores, as well as transferring the terminal designations from the instructions. Elements equipped with fuses are marked separately, indicating the characteristics of the fuse. Copy the list from the instructions “List of faults” - in fact, this is a guide to periodic maintenance of the system. We put everything in a separate folder along with the system documentation - we store it forever. In case of problems, or the need for repairs, this information will be invaluable.

The work is finished, now you can enjoy comfort for a long time without interfering with the operation of the system.