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What does the term “professional” mean in this case? The most direct and correct interpretation- intended for work on a commercial basis, that is, generating income for the master. The popular point of view that the differences between a professional instrument and a “household” (amateur) one are only in the level of manufacturing, to put it mildly, is incorrect. This means that you can only tell the difference technological features no way.

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There is an opinion that professional tool differs from “household” only in the level of manufacturing. This is, to put it mildly, incorrect.

All aspects are equally important here: the ability to withstand intensive use, ensure low fatigue, high accuracy and productivity, as well as payback. The last factor combines the ratio of initial cost and resource, availability and cost of maintenance, and reliability.

Nutrition

The second most popular tool after a hammer is a drill. A machine whose operating principle is extremely simple. All that is required is an easy-to-grip body and a motor to rotate the drill clamped in the chuck. Is it possible to complicate things here? It turns out that it is possible and even necessary. Let's begin with different materials require different speeds of rotation of the equipment, and the “drill” itself determines the speed of rotation. So, with an increase in the diameter of the hole being made, it is necessary to reduce the “revolutions”. Here's the reason for the first complication: the rotation speed needs to be adjusted. An electronic unit built into the start button or separate from it is responsible for this. An extremely simple case is simple modulation of the input signal over time, that is, regular on/off. The effective voltage value changes, and with it the maximum engine speed.

This is exactly how the typical for amateur drill scheme. Its main disadvantage is that by reducing the frequency, we inevitably lose the torque reserve that is so necessary when working with viscous materials and/or large equipment. Now, if the “block” monitored the load and added watts at the moment when they were needed... This is exactly how circuits at the next level of complexity, worthy of a professional tool, function. Of course, the speed will still “float” depending on the load, but not within such a wide range. Work will become more comfortable, more accurate and more productive.

The next level in the hierarchy belongs to “constant” electronics. Few tool brands have it, including Bosch, DeWALT, AEG and other leading companies. The electronic board in such tools is equipped with an inductive or other magnetic sensor and monitors the rotation of the armature. In this case, the stability of the move will be greatest, and the entire power reserve is always available.

It’s worth saying a few words about the design. Relatively simple circuits often performed directly in the trigger body; more complex ones require a separate board. A manufacturer of household models can afford to protect it from oxidation with varnish and from destruction by attaching the heaviest parts with hot glue. All this is not very reliable; the best option, long ago accepted as a basis by serious enterprises, is complete filling with a polymer composition.

In the age of computers and microprocessors, it would be extremely short-sighted to assign such narrow functions to electronics. What else might be needed? Without going into details, we will simply list other options that are used in drills: temperature control of the windings and forced shutdown to avoid overheating, limiting the torque developed by the motor, pulse mode rotation, indication of overload and maintenance requirements - this is a list of just a few popular modifications.

Motor

The power supply for a “professional” motor is understandable. Now about the “heart” itself. They all have the same design - a commutator electric motor, but the execution is different. The efficiency, and therefore the heating, depends on the size and uniformity of the magnetic gap (between the armature and the stator). A low-quality motor overheats quickly. If it does not “burn out” immediately, the increased thermal load quickly destroys the wire insulation in the coils, interturn short circuits appear, the destruction process progresses... But what prevents you from maintaining accuracy? This includes equipment, assembly culture and, of course, hull rigidity. By the way, the type (in fact, the cost) of the insulating varnish and hardening impregnation used also determines a lot - this is resistance to overheating and abrasive wear from sucked dust.

The next problem that requires high technological costs is mechanics. At idle, the rotor develops colossal speeds - 20-30 thousand per minute. Not every bearing can withstand this. Required condition ensuring reliability - using high-quality components, but this is not enough, it is important good protection from dust and tight fit. It is best if the front bearing is seated in the metal of the gearbox housing or, if it is not separate, in its metal shield. Household models often have neither a body nor a shield...

The rear support for all models is usually plastic. On high-quality machines there is a rubber bushing between the clip and the “bed”. If it is not there, there is a high risk of the entire bearing turning, which means immediate melting of the seating area and failure of the tool. Note that simply the absence or presence of a rubber ring does not mean much - on a household tool it may not be durable enough, but on a professional one it can be replaced with another modification, for example a clamp.

Another challenge associated with turnover is balancing. Manufacturers of only household tools often do not have the equipment to accurately correct imbalances. A typical feature of products from such a plant is holes drilled in the armature cage. But if instead of them there are neat slots, it means the technology is up to par.

Gearbox

Rotation has been obtained, the next stage is its transfer to the cartridge. The drive gear teeth are always cut on the front shank of the armature shaft. If its metal is of the wrong grade or poorly heat-treated, rapid wear is inevitable. For the same reason, sudden “death” can occur - when a thick drill jams, the soft shaft can lead. Such a defect is atypical for a high-quality household tool, and even more so for a professional one.

If the drill is highly specialized, it has one pair of wheels in the gearbox; if it is universal, it has several. “Synchronizers” are responsible for the smoothness and accuracy of gear shifting; their task is to align the teeth of the pair being switched on, even if they do not match. For professional drills, their presence is the rule; for household ones, it is rather the exception.

In the gearbox, the torque increases many times, and the loads also increase. This is one of the reasons why a professional drill needs a strong and rigid gear housing. Best option- metal: it also provides good heat dissipation. But such a box is heavy, so professional models often use a plastic case. The external resemblance to a household machine is so great that one is tempted to wonder: is there a difference? Yes, and a very significant one!

In addition to internal reinforcing elements (cast metal shields), professional models have other secrets. The worst case is considered to be a case made of thin and smooth (shiny) plastic. The mirror-like cleanliness of the surface indicates that no filler was used - fiberglass. It makes molding difficult and worsens appearance. Some manufacturers solve this problem by increasing the binder content. This increases strength, but manufacturing accuracy suffers. Of course, the clumsy appearance is not so bad, but loose joints are already a serious flaw... Some of the famous companies also use original compositions, achieving unique qualities. For example, DeWALT makes models with glass-filled nylon bodies - they are strong, rigid and non-fragile.

Many household models have a gearbox with a metal housing. Maybe this equates them to professionals? Unfortunately no. It is important not only to make the casting, but also to process it well - uneven planes require thick gaskets that reduce rigidity, but this does not make the body airtight. And in professional models there are gearboxes assembled without gaskets or sealants at all, and the joints “don’t sweat” (I’ve seen this on Bosch models).

Gears and lubrication

Gears are mainly made using powder metallurgy methods; in rare cases, teeth are cut on machines. But mechanical processing is mandatory, although in household analogues it is often neglected. At the same time, the abrasion resistance decreases and large gaps are initially created.

Speaking about mechanics, we cannot fail to mention the most important component of durability - lubrication. Her selection is subtle and difficult task, the solution of which depends on the features temperature regime, loads in friction pairs and materials. A high-quality instrument can use compositions with very different external properties. It is clear that competent service is impossible without high-quality service support, but where can you get it if you purchase a product from a fly-by-night company?

“Everything in a person should be beautiful...” The same can be said about the instrument: both the filling and the appearance. Ergonomics depend on the shape, layout and weight distribution. Household models are made according to standard patterns, and companies engaged in the manufacture of products for professionals conduct their own research. This is only to the advantage of the master - you can always choose a car for yourself. At the same time, designers, if necessary, go off the beaten path, creating planetary gearboxes, adding angular gears (AEG ErgoMax), rotary brush holders and other unusual innovations.

Hammers

Close “relatives” of drills are hammer drills. Their fundamental difference is in the device impact mechanism— it is compression-vacuum. A tool of this type is complex both from a design point of view and from a technological point of view. As for the drive and power supply, the device and the differences between “amateurs” and “pros” are completely similar to drills.

The most important internal parts of a rotary hammer are the cylinder, its drive and the firing pin. Design complexity - compact placement. Why do most household models have a vertical layout and bulky dimensions? You shouldn’t think that it’s because of the generosity of the manufacturer, who spared no metal to create a “killer” car... Contrary to this approach, modern professional hammer drills usually so tightly “packed” that disassembling them is impossible without the use of special tools. The result is a convenient and lightweight, yet powerful tool for efficient work. By the way, companies specializing specifically in household tools often neglect the torque limiting clutch, and it is very important for safety!

Engineering work at the design stage is also of utmost importance. Calculation of the dynamics of the impact mechanism gives swipe with low returns. On powerful machines this is not enough, so they install shock-absorbing handles (Milwaukee Kango) or come up with other moves. Pneumatics must be efficient and not suck in outside air (there is a lot of dust!). Lubrication is a completely separate issue: its properties should facilitate rapid access to operating mode and ensure low wear (if there is an excessive amount of lubricant, too much power will be expended).

Rubber seals must retain elasticity for a long time, resisting abrasion and high temperature. The firing pin is susceptible to riveting. Of course, when developing such complex products Innovations from leading companies could not fail to appear, for example, the authorship of the world-wide SDS-Plus and SDS-Max clamp types belongs to Bosch.

The lightweight and powerful hammer drill is convenient to use as a low-speed drill. In a domestic class, to implement this opportunity, it will be necessary to install an adapter cartridge, which increases the longitudinal dimension and introduces “laxness” into the design. Professionals are able to surprise here too, for example, in the DeWALT D25104K-QS, the clamp for the drill is removable, and a cartridge is installed instead (replacement is done with a slight movement of the hand). A similar system is found in both Bosch (models with the DFR index) and Milwaukee (PLH 32 XE). And here is an example of a different kind - Elmos BM-60: this tool has a two-speed gearbox, the metal body of which is covered with plastic for safety reasons (to protect against burns when touched); The reverse function also allows for screwdriver work.

Cordless tool

However, such giant companies as Bosch, DeWALT and Milwaukee are able to offer absolutely incredible developments in this area: cordless rotary hammers. It is clear that there are no traces of any household analogues here: there are self-powered drills and screwdrivers, but rotary hammers are much more “gluttonous”. Therefore, modern models of cordless hammer drills have a voltage of 24 or 36 V.

By the way, the differences are easy to judge by traditional models. The first thing you notice when comparing a good professional screwdriver with an amateur one is the difference in torque. Increasing it without reducing output speed (it entails a loss of performance) is impossible with engine modernization alone (relatively simple). Motorists will easily understand the analogy with starting a car - even a working starter can barely turn the engine when the battery is useless.

Naturally, the operating time on one charge is also a subject for comparison. However, it is not the only one that is important - being equipped with spare batteries and a fast charger, the “pro” is able to work continuously. To reduce charging time use different technologies— battery cases are made metal or perforated (facilitates heat dissipation), and “smart” electronics are installed that control the voltage and charge cycle. It was the development of these technologies that allowed the birth of many tools, the autonomy of which was previously unthinkable: construction vacuum cleaner(DeWALT), miter saws, circular saws and other saws (Bosch, DeWALT, Elmos, Milwaukee). There are also simply original ones, even if they don’t require high technology, but clearly not typical: for example, Elmos even makes a cordless stapler and jigsaw.

If the question arises as to which tools are now the most in demand, then the answer may be clear. Corded electric drills have become the most commonly used. In order to be convinced of this, it is enough to visit several stores that provide dozens of options for models for sale. But how to choose a drill yourself?

Variations of another type of technical device are more modest. There should be no surprise, since drills are universal tools used in every home. With the help of such devices you can drill brick, wood, concrete, tighten fasteners and stir mortars. That is why we can conclude that the drill can be used anywhere and at any time.

It is important to know that with the help of such wonderful modern devices you can carry out grinding work of any complexity. In this matter, it is advisable to contact professionals or consultants in stores.

The difference between rotary hammers and drills

Before choosing a drill and settling on a specific type, some begin to doubt whether they need more: a drill or a hammer drill. That is why it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the differences and similarities of these devices for work.

Many of today's construction equipment manufacturers provide impact drill types. With the help of such devices it is possible to perform such work as:

• production of holes of various diameters in materials of different production;
• turning screws;
• turning out self-tapping screws.

Hammer drills have the ability to drill holes in harder material and chisel if necessary.

Based on such similar performance characteristics, we can conclude that a rotary hammer is much more profitable than a drill, but there are also many advantages negative qualities. The main disadvantage is the price. The cost of rotary hammers is many times higher than that of drills. Rotary hammers do not have the ability to attach conventional drills, which are often needed for work and repair. In such cases, you have to resort to using adapters, which can be found in the standard package when purchasing this device. The use of an adapter significantly increases the length of the hammer drill, which can also create additional vibration, which affects the durability of the equipment and ease of use. The exception is those hammer drills that come complete with replaceable cartridges. But in cases where the maximum amount of work using the drilling function is not needed, you can choose an impact drill.

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Separation of tools into household and professional types

Each technical device divided into household and professional use. Professional devices are needed in order to perform many hours of voluminous work every day. To create such equipment, high-quality material is used, and at a much higher level than for household appliances, which, accordingly, affects its reliability.

Household tools have their advantages in that they cost much less and weigh less. Among manufacturers there are many who focus specifically on ergonomics and convenience, which is very important for work. Household tools should not be used for more than 4 hours a day, and it is advisable to take a break every 15-20 minutes (to cool the engine).

Difference professional power tools is that it is manufactured in more developed countries, where employees are allowed to work only with high categories and professionalism at top level. Regarding professional equipment, it is worth saying that household power tools and their production lie in less developed areas.

It is important to note that the best professional electric drills and hammer drills are created in Germany.

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What is the difference between professional tools and household ones?

To make it easier for customers to navigate the choice of tools, manufacturers began to mark equipment cases different colors and shades.

The main requirements by which a household appliance can be distinguished from a professional one are the choice of rated power, number of revolutions and rotation speed, and the possibility of a maximum diameter for drilling. An equally important point is the adjustment of rotation speeds. Almost every modern device there is a similar function. It is worth noting that the rotation speeds can be controlled by force when pressing the start button.

Two-speed electric drills have significant characteristics. In order to use them more rationally, manufacturers have equipped the devices with a wheel (or another regulator), with which you can fix the power in the desired mode.

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How to choose the right electric drill?

To begin with, you should do definite choice what power tools are needed for and what tools are needed functional responsibilities. The difference between the functions that may be built-in or not needed at all may depend on what the purchased drill is intended for. External data and the price of equipment can play a big role.

If there is no specific need, you do not need to buy an electric drill, which comes with unnecessary attachments, such as a plane, Sander, circular saw and so on. The presence of an excessive number of built-in functions can affect the quality of the device.

The best option is to use a drill strictly for its intended purpose. For example, a screwdriver should only be used to tighten fasteners on parts. Stop purchasing equipment with many built-in functions if they are all needed for the job and make up approximately 30% of the total volume of actions performed.

It is advisable to buy drills for home use in stores that specialize in selling power tools and can provide a certain number of guarantees. According to statistics, those devices that are purchased on the markets fail almost immediately.

It is advisable to use those devices that do not include absolutely everything that may be required. It is much safer to select everything separately.

Among drills, there are varieties with certain features that should be taken into account when purchasing:

1. Impact drills. Such tools are used not only for rotational motion, but can also provide certain forward pressure actions that are needed in order to increase productivity and expand the range of work. When working with such fragile materials, like wood, plastic and drywall, impact functions are disabled.
2. Angle drills. Such tools are needed to work with hard to reach places And limited space. For example, when drilling surfaces with angles of 90°. As a rule, such devices are used to work on car repairs, furniture, and so on.
3. Drill-driver. With the help of such a device it is possible to tighten and unscrew screws, screws and self-tapping screws. Basically, such devices have low power and a very compact size. Screwdrivers are used for everyday life, namely for furniture assembly, arranging scenery and so on.
4. Drill mixer. In addition to the fact that such an electric drill has a drilling function, it has a function designed to stir fluid and liquid materials: mortars, paints, plaster and cement. As a rule, this type of drill does not have an impact function; there is an additional handle for attaching attachments.
5. Cordless drill. You need to pay most of your attention to power sources. There are two types of drill. Some run on mains power, while others run on a battery (or battery in other words). Autonomous power supply is considered very useful where it is not possible to connect to the network. The disadvantages of such devices are that the duration of use is very short. That is why you have to change the batteries that come with it very often.

It’s worth choosing a drill with the right chuck, of which there are different types.

The use of a traditional chuck (or cam chuck) is done quite often. Fastening in it is done strictly using the keys that come with the kit.

There is a type of quick-release chuck. In order to secure the drill in this case, you need to apply a little effort. The quality of such a cartridge is not inferior to a toothed one. But in this version there are two more subtypes: two-sleeve and single-sleeve. The first has a rotating ring and another one above it so that the clamp can be adjusted and loosened as required. Single-sleeve chucks are considered the easiest to use and are used when replacing drills.

IN Electric instruments have a unique classification. It is not kept silent, but sellers do not particularly advertise it, so not everyone knows about it. This means that tools produced by the same company and having the same performance characteristics may differ significantly.

The distinction implies the division of tools into professional, semi-professional and household. How significant the difference is can be judged by the cost. So you can buy Bosch rotary hammers at the best prices, choosing not a professional, but a household modification.

In this case, the difference in price can be 100 percent or more. This is easy to verify by comparing professional and household models of tools http://abo.ua/elektroinstrument/bosch/.

But is it worth paying more if there is a cheaper option? On the other hand, isn't it low price an indicator of equally low quality?

To answer these questions, you need to understand how, besides price, professional and household varieties tools. And also where to use the first and where the second and, finally, how to distinguish one from the other.

The main differences between professional and household tools

Despite certain external differences (we'll talk about them later), the main difference between home and professional tools is their filling.

For ease of comparison, we summarize the main differences in the table:

The purpose of all these design solutions can be briefly defined as a focus on long-term continuous operation of the mechanism. This is where the main difference between a professional instrument lies.

If used for a long time without a break, a household tool will fail. And not because it is bad, but because it is not designed for long-term operation.

Lubricant will leak from an overheated bearing, the housing will “behave” from prolonged dynamic influences, the contacts will oxidize and the motor brushes will burn.

But let the instrument “rest” in accordance with its passport and it will work for a long time and successfully.

Today we’ll talk about the difficulties that may arise when purchasing electric tool. We will learn to accurately identify a fake, find “our” supplier, and determine an effective procedure, both at the preparatory stage and directly in the store. In general, we will focus on those points that, for various reasons, were not included in other articles.

Specifications. Learning to read a passport

The last point of our theoretical preparation will be to determine the necessary technical parameters. The main question: where to get information? There are two options: either on the manufacturer’s official website or from the user manual. Option three (product description in a web store) is erroneous, since few merchants bother to search for absolutely reliable information and check the printed text. Finding a competent and honest consultant is even more difficult.

So what do we need to know to shortlist potential buyers? Usually we look at the power of a product, its speed (the number of revolutions or strokes per unit of time), torque - all this is good, but performance indicators (processing depth) for various materials or the size of the maximum permissible equipment look much more eloquent.

The next point is the duration continuous operation. As we have already said, the application coefficient is the main indicator of the “professionalism” and endurance of the unit. Indeed, is there any sense in having a super-powerful motor if, after five minutes of heavy work, the tool must take a 10-minute “smoke break” (even this happens). There are extremely vague formulations such as “for long-term operation” or “the tool can be used for an 8-hour shift, but not more than 240 minutes per day.” Some manufacturers discreetly keep silent about operating modes at all. Obviously, their tool is a pig in a poke.

Maintenance frequency. This point is not always indicated in the documentation, since the specific timing directly depends on the load on the tool. However, if you are told that after three dozen hours of work in the car it is necessary to replace the internal lubricant, then it turns out that with four hours of work a day, once a week you will have to go to the service center for maintenance. Be sure to pay attention to the frequency of brush replacement, or more precisely, to their average (because it depends on the load) service life. According to Feng Shui, the right tool it is designed so that when the brushes are worn out, then the time comes to do full-scale maintenance.

Be aware of any operating restrictions ( permissible loads, dust, humidity, temperatures, vibrations, noise...), prescribed for the unit in the passport - the more of them, the less reliable and safe the device in front of you. This applies only to a branded instrument; manuals for “noname” models usually talk about unconditional versatility. It happens on the contrary, young brands offer the consumer to carefully monitor their instrument: periodically disassemble the body to replace wear parts and brushes, to clean the commutator from copper oxides, etc., etc. It is clear that we will have to look for their service, since during warranty period The fillings must not be touched. Imagine a cordless screwdriver that cannot be used in temperatures below zero, or an angle grinder that is intended for indoor use only.

What does the price say?

If you leave counterfeit and uncertified tools behind, it will become obvious that units of the same class (with similar performance characteristics) cost approximately the same. That is, the cheaper the model, the simpler it is, perhaps intended for non-commercial use. True, there are pleasant exceptions, for example, if an authorized retail outlet decided to quickly get rid of a certain amount of goods, for example, to free up funds for the purchase of a new batch. Do not be afraid of promotions and special offers, provided that the seller is not in doubt. We also note that large stores with a high turnover and direct deliveries can afford to slightly reduce the retail price. Moreover, in the periphery, the cost of tools and especially equipment and consumables is much higher. Seriously affect money issue some auxiliary elements - cases and useful devices, additional attachments and rechargeable batteries, fast chargers, replacement cartridges, factory lubricant. Sometimes it makes more sense to buy a “bare” device and equip it with the things you really need.

We carry out field tests

So, we have prepared well theoretically, and even selected several models from catalogs that, in our opinion, will cope with the tasks. Now they should be tested in reality. Ask the seller to remove the product from the packaging and allow you to power the instrument.

Listen to his work, the noise should be moderate and monotonous, without jerks or dips. It is especially useful to listen to the mechanics after a shutdown, when everything moves by inertia. The louder the instrument, the worse it is assembled. Loud noises may indicate poor lubrication, poor-quality bearings, lack of balancing.

Run the unit at low speeds and evaluate the spindle runout and rod deflection. Ask for the equipment to be installed and do the same with it. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment stops after turning off the power (unless the model is equipped with an electrodynamic brake). A sudden stop indicates a problematic assembly.

Load the tool in different modes, this is how you can understand the true power of the unit and the quality of the work performed. Official retail outlets usually allow you to test the tool in action; you will be provided with a workpiece, equipment and a specially designated place without any problems.

Check how auxiliary systems and options, buttons and switches work. Feel the force of the air flow cooling the engine; sometimes there is no “wind” at all.

One thing: Whatever you choose, only compare classmates with similar characteristics.

If the sea trials were successful, you can begin a superficial inspection:

1. Evaluate the ergonomics of the tool - the comfort of the handles, dimensions, layout, accessibility of controls.
2. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment changes and how securely it is fixed.
3. “Shake” the car, focus on its balance.
4. Weigh the tool by hand. Be careful. A small mass is, on the one hand, a plus, but, on the other hand, it can indicate a small number of metal parts. Therefore, we compare only direct competitors by class.
5. Consider the power cord. It must be securely fixed in the tool, have a long protective sleeve at the inlet and an unquestionable cross-section (thickness). A power cable length of less than 3 meters is not unreasonably considered bad manners. The exception is corded chain saws.
6. Carefully inspect the body for mechanical damage(chips, cracks, grease leaks, abrasions, traces of tampering). Many of them can cause refusal warranty repairs. Others may mean the fact that the unit was in use (for example, for the needs of a store) or was returned to the retail outlet and repaired. If in doubt, ask for another copy.
7. See if there is metal parts traces of corrosion are a sign of improper storage.
8. Collect all the auxiliary elements: stops, soles, guides. Everything must be securely and accurately fixed, without bending, knocking, or modernization.
9. Check all elements of the unit for play. The fewer there are, the more quality product you hold in your hands.

We make the purchase correctly

Before you head home, being the proud owner of a new device, you need to take a few more small steps. First, we check the completeness of the package (simply check the contents of the case with the corresponding list from the manual). Secondly, we check that the warranty card is filled out correctly:

• full name of the instrument;
• catalog number and serial number (check the nameplate);
• number cash receipt(it’s better to immediately attach the check to your passport);
• living stamp of a trade organization;
• Date of sale;
• seller's name and signature.

Now you can relax, at this stage you have done everything you could. If you are a novice user, do not rush to immediately destroy and assemble, first familiarize yourself with the rules for safe operation of power tools, as well as the main nuances for correct operation - we discussed these issues in detail in previous articles. We wish you good luck with your work.

Every man has at least a minimal set of power tools at home or in his garage. Most often it includes a hammer drill and grinder, an electric drill and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, etc.

If you need to update an existing one, or make an initial purchase of a tool, then a non-professional may have a problem with the choice, because... There are dozens of models on the market in a wide range various manufacturers. Help such buyers make right choice is what this article is intended to do.

Industrial power tools

As a rule, masters are individuals, industrial tool are not used due to its narrow specialization and very high cost. It is advisable to purchase it exclusively for industrial enterprises, or use in construction. Only here it is possible to recoup its value with high dividends.

The following power tool manufacturers are the undisputed leaders in this segment:

Professional power tools

In the mentioned market segment of this product, a tool is presented that was initially designed to perform a limited number of available operations, which, as a rule, does not exceed three. But with the highest quality.

This tool is characterized by a significant resource and power, exceeding the value of a similar parameter for semi-professional and household tools. Professional models are more reliable, have increased wear resistance and are characterized by increased strength indicators (the body material more resistant to mechanical loads, including shock).

They allow you to work in continuous mode for much longer than is permissible for household tools. In this case, damage to the armature, windings, brushes and other internal elements the structure does not occur.

Tools belonging to the group under consideration, in mandatory have mechanical or electronic adjustment, allowing:

• smoothly change power;
• exclude sudden jerks during the work process at the start-up stage and during fixation;
• smoothly adjust the specified rotation speed;
• stabilize it as loads increase;
• protect the product from overload, automatically turning off when the specified values ​​are reached;
• set max torque.

This group includes the following brands:

Characteristic distinctive feature instruments belonging to the group under consideration is their Blue colour. All German instruments from this brand are reliable and affordable. That is why they are preferred quite often;

Household power tools

The tools presented in this market segment are produced exclusively for home use. Many models are made using a special ergonomic design, which gives them additional visual appeal, and are focused on greater versatility and ease of use.

The main disadvantage of this category of tool is the prohibition on their continuous use for more than 3 – 4 hours a day. Moreover, during this time it is recommended to take at least three breaks lasting up to 15 minutes (within an hour).

The main advantage is cost. Therefore, in cases where occasional use of the tool is planned, this is the best option.

Let's consider several major manufacturers of power tools of the mentioned class that are worthy of mention:

Mains or battery, what to choose

All offered power tools are divided into two groups. The first includes products that require an external power source. They are called network.

The second includes a tool that allows you to work regardless of the presence or absence of a network, which is powered by own battery. This tool is called a battery tool. This tool is characterized by ease of use, lightness and versatility.

The division mentioned applies to an instrument from any segment discussed earlier.

The advantages of network models are their power and increased reliability. But there are many situations. When performing work without using battery tool almost impossible.

This tool is better suited for work that requires frequent movement. Battery products are indispensable in explosive and fire hazardous areas.

The disadvantages inherent in such a tool are the periodic need for recharging, the significant cost of batteries and lower power ratings.

Russian manufacturers

On the shelves of specialized stores, a significant part of the power tools offered have Russian names. But, unfortunately, this does not always indicate that these goods were made in Russia.

Most of these products can be classified into two groups, which can roughly be called:

• Pseudo-Russian (a Chinese-made instrument from an unknown manufacturer, but under a Russian name);
• Assembled using the “screwdriver assembly” method on the territory of our country, but from the same Chinese (optionally from other) components of unknown origin.

And only a third of such power tools are actually developed and completely manufactured here.

Leading Russian manufacturers that offer their own products on the market are:

• IMZ (Izhevsk) is a huge diversified production facility producing weapons and microelectronics, devices for various purposes and power tools in a wide range. The products on the market are represented by the Baikal trademark (passed international registration);
• "Interskol", mentioned above. produces a wide range of power tools, but partly from imported components. The company owns a number of factories located in different parts of the world:
  • BEZ – Russia;
  • IPT – Italy;
  • Two factories in China (in the cities of Jinghau and Shanghai).

Some of the products of this manufacturer are manufactured at partner enterprises, such as:

• IMZ - Russia;
• GGP - Slovakia;
• Starmix - Germany;
• Sparky - Bulgaria;
• Rexon - Taiwan;
• Keyang - South Korea and so on.

• OJSC PNPK (Perm) – power tools are a by-product of this company;
• KZMI (Konakovo) - Production is carried out using imported equipment. The lineup includes about twenty types of power tools and pneumatic tools. The drills of this plant are considered one of the best among those produced in Russia. And the screwdrivers of this plant have no analogues among Russian-made products;
• EMZS "LEPSE" (JSC) Kirov produces electric shears, electric hammers and angle grinders;
• SEZ (Saratov);
• "Inkar-Parma" (LLC) - electric saw plant.

Power tools manufactured in Southeast Asian countries today account for up to half of the assortment that fills Russian shelves. This tool is offered in a lower price category and can be presented to buyers as products manufactured in the USA, Europe and even in Russia. Many people know examples of the latter symbiosis. These are the brands of power tools:

• "Bison";
• "Caliber";
• "Energomash";
• “Progress – Tool”;
• "Resource";
• "Diopd";
• "Stavr";
• "Enkor";
• "Grad - M", etc.