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One of the most important elements interior decoration the premises is its floor covering. There are special requirements for it: beauty, ease of maintenance, wear resistance. It is highly desirable that it is not slippery, so that it is comfortable to walk on even when wet. Modern cork material meets all of the above requirements.

Not so long ago, a floor made from it was an almost unattainable pleasure. Now, of course, it also does not belong to economy class materials, but many compatriots can afford it. Cork is the bark of a special cork oak tree, which is widespread in countries with humid and warm climates.

The largest plantations of this tree grow in Spain and Portugal, providing the countries with primacy in the processing of cork material and the production of various building materials from it. It is also cultivated in some Asian countries useful plant, but the quality of the resulting cork is lower there.

Cork floors - varieties

Conventionally, all types of coatings of this type can be divided into three types: technical, adhesive and interlocking. Floors that require an adhesive base are completely natural.

These are pressed solid slabs (or panels) - they can have different sizes: 45x15, 60x30, 30x30, 45x15. Their thickness can vary from four to six millimeters.

The material has a two-layer construction. The top layer is usually represented by high-quality high-quality veneer, the bottom layer consists of cork chips pressed under pressure.

MDF is in the middle. The upper part of the structure consists of a special cork veneer. The plate has standard dimensions of 90 by 18.5 cm, with a thickness of 1.2 cm.

Just like the usual traditional laminate, cork has special grooves and locks. Thanks to this, the installation process is significantly simplified. It does not require sealants and an adhesive base, but a 2-3 mm substrate is required under it.

When the coating is laid and installed, several layers of varnish must be applied to it. Which grades to use for this are usually recommended by the manufacturers of cork laminates themselves.

The technical covering made from cork is a remnant of production, therefore this material in fact, they are never used for final finishing. It is usually produced in granules, plates or convenient rolls.

Its main purpose is to use it as a substrate for laminate flooring. In addition, it can be used to mask and remove significant defects in the base.

Obvious advantages of cork flooring

The cost of cork flooring is higher than linoleum and traditional laminate. And yet, it can be considered quite profitable.

Let's look at the advantages of cork coating:

Cons of cork flooring

Cork covering, like any construction material, has not only advantages - it also has some disadvantages. What can be attributed to them?

Laying cork on the floor - preparation

To install cork floors, use various ways. The choice of a specific method in each case depends on the material chosen for the floor covering.

The floor can be adhesive (attached to the base) or floating (its individual elements are connected only to each other).

It is advisable to carry out work in warm weather. This is necessary to ensure that the temperature difference in the rooms where the material is stored and where it will be installed does not exceed seven degrees.

Humidity limits should be no more than 65 percent.

Before laying cork flooring, it is necessary to prepare the base well, which must be dry and level. All cracks and crevices must be carefully sealed.

It is recommended to use vapor-tight and waterproofing materials that can create reliable protective barriers. You can use gypsum fiber sheets, moisture-resistant plywood or self-leveling screeds.

Minimal differences in height are acceptable. All existing joints are sealed with silicone sealant, after which the seams are leveled. The surface must be primed.

Cork flooring - laying with glue

It is not recommended to unpack the tiles immediately after purchasing them - they must remain in the conditions in which they will be installed for at least three days.

Humidity and temperature regime– the indicators should be 65% and 18 degrees, respectively. It is recommended to start installation in the center of the room, and not from the corner, as is desirable for many other materials.

First, markings are made using a beating cord, which facilitates the installation process.

The adhesive composition can be dispersive latex-acrylic or polychloroprene based - it can be applied both to the slabs and to the prepared base. For the floor, it is better to use a special notched trowel; for cork, a soft roller is more suitable.

The applied adhesive is kept for a specified time (determined by the manufacturer), only then installation begins. Individual elements pressed against each other and against the base, tapped with a rubber mallet or ironed with a roller.

After this, the coating is left to dry for about a day, but the time period may vary for each specific brand of material.

Then the finished surface is freed from debris and dust - it is convenient to do this with a household vacuum cleaner. After a thoroughly cleaned floor, you can begin to varnish it with special two-component water-based polyurethane compounds.

The varnish is treated in several layers, at least three - this ensures better preservation and wear resistance of the cork coating.

Application can be carried out with or without sanding, glossy or matte varnishes are used. Within a few hours the treated surface will dry, but it is better to wait longer.

It is advisable not to touch the surface at all for about 24 hours.

As for a thorough load, you will have to wait longer. Only after 5-7 days will the floor become stable enough for the maximum possible load.

Each manufacturer of cork coverings strives to simplify installation using modern technologies and developments. In addition, detailed instructions are included with the products, however, during installation, non-standard situations inevitably arise that only a professional can handle.

Cork flooring, especially the adhesive type, requires ideal substrate preparation. The subfloor must be level, dry, durable, stable and clean. Any imperfections will immediately be reflected in the final floor covering. That is why Preparation for installation is a key stage in installing cork flooring.

Cork laying services

We offer a full range of services for the installation of decorative and technical cork coverings:

• Cork laminate.
• Adhesive floor plug.
• Cork wall panels.
• Cork wallpaper.
• Floor cork plinth.
• Cork backing for laminate or parquet boards.
• Preparing the base, dismantling old coatings.

The cost of laying cork floors and walls

Prices for plug installation services are determined after the surveyor arrives. The final cost is influenced by the quality of the base floor, the area of ​​the room, and the type of cork being installed. The table shows current prices for Moscow and the Moscow region without taking into account the cost of traffic jams.

Work order

• Application. You can place an order for plug installation by phone, online on the website or in one of our showrooms.
• Visit of a specialist for measurements. After agreeing on the details, our specialist leaves at the approved time to take measurements and take notes on the object.
• Financial miscalculation. Based on the information received, a financial estimate is drawn up and deadlines for completing the work are set.
• Preparatory work. Work begins with preparing the base and dismantling the old coating, if necessary.
• Cork laying. A cork floor is laid on the prepared base. Depending on the volume and location of the object, the work takes 1-2 days.
• Delivery of the object. After installation is completed, construction waste is cleaned and removed, if necessary.
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It doesn't matter what style your interior is. Cork is one of the most successful materials for decoration. In order for products to please you with beauty, aesthetics and excellent performance characteristics for a long time, it is very important correct installation cork flooring.

Cork oak bark is a valuable natural raw material used to produce various necessary things, from shoes to finishing coatings. In particular, the following products are produced for floor decoration:

1. Agglomerated cork boards are glued.
2. Tiles or strips of crushed cork are self-adhesive.

Let's look at each variety in more detail.

Adhesive agglomerated plug

To obtain this type of product, the bark is crushed into crumbs of the required size, mixed with thermosetting synthetic resins and pressed into blocks with a density of 450 to 800 kg/m³. The resulting semi-finished product is cut into sheets with a thickness of 3 to 6 mm, from which tiles or planks of standard dimensions up to 30 cm wide and up to 120 cm long are formed on the machine. finished products They are even, so they need to be glued end-to-end. The cost of production is from 700 rubles/m² and above.

Cork agglomerate board.

The adhesive plug goes well with a water-based “warm floor,” but you need to choose an elastic adhesive marked “for heated bases.” We remind you that manufacturers (Corkstyle, Wicanders, etc.) strongly do not recommend gluing the product to a screed under which a classic electric (cable) heating system is installed.

Finished with varnish or finishing wax, this finishing material Perfect for rooms such as the kitchen, hallway, balcony, living room and other objects with a high degree of foot traffic and abrasive loads. At the same time, it goes equally well with ceramic tiles, classic parquet and any other floor covering.

Self-adhesive floor plug

The finishing material consists of thin tiles of standard or veneered agglomerate, on the reverse side of which an industrial adhesive layer is applied under protective paper. The latter prevents the adhesive coating from drying out and greatly facilitates the installation process on any base, including walls and even ceilings. The price of the product starts from 800 rubles/m².

Cork flooring in this series is produced in the form of tiles with a side of no more than 30 cm, thickness from 3.6 mm to 5 mm. It is very rare to find adhesive-based planks of shortened dimensions - width up to 18 cm, length up to 90 cm. The front surface is usually clean, requiring protection from water, coloring liquids, household chemicals and abrasives. Additionally, adhesive compounds are almost never used, but it is important to carefully prepare the base, under which only water heating is allowed.

Cork in an interior decorated in eco style.

According to the manufacturers, floor cork can be glued to the floor and walls in any room with a normal level of humidity: bedrooms, kitchens, living rooms, children's rooms. The combinatorial nature of the products allows us to create interiors in the retro and eco-style that are so popular today.

Quite an interesting and practical solution - glued to a board made of HDF or composite rigid PVC decorative layer from solid veneer or a thin sheet of agglomerated cork. The perimeter strips are equipped with locking Click connection for glue-free assembly of products into a single piece.

Cork laminate with integrated backing.

Some manufacturers add, in addition to standard layers, a backing layer. As a rule, a high-density cork layer with a cross-section of up to 2 mm is used. The total thickness of the product does not exceed 12 mm. Product cost – from 1100 rubles/m².

The main advantages of this type of product:

1. No glue or composition required finishing surfaces (varnishes, enamels, etc.);
2. Compatibility with water and electric “soft” (infrared roll products, rod mats, etc.) floor heating systems.
3. The technique for installing cork laminate is completely identical to the technique for assembling a conventional laminated flooring; accordingly, it can be easily implemented either with your own hands or by specialized teams.
4. A wide range of applications, because cork parquet is produced in almost all load classes - from 21 to 41.

HDF-based products are used in rooms with normal or partially increased level humidity, including living rooms, loggias, kitchens, as well as shops, beauty salons, cafes, etc. For bathrooms, laundries and other similar facilities, it is better to lay the product on a PVC plate.

Laying adhesive cork flooring - step-by-step instructions

To install cork flooring, you must first prepare the following tools and aids:

1. Compositions for leveling and repairing concrete or wooden base(self-leveling floors, cement or epoxy restoration compositions, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB, etc.);
2. Adhesive primer for mineral floors or fungicidal for wood floors;
3. Polymer contact adhesive (Decol Vern, Homakoll 277, Forbo 650 Eurostar fastcol, etc.);
4. Polyurethane or acrylic varnish marked “for the floor”, finishing oil or wax to protect the surface (Lobadur Supra, Osmo Hartwachs-Öl, Biofa 9032, etc.);
5. Brushes and other means of applying protective surface compounds;
6. Construction vacuum cleaner;
7. Tape measure, square, dye cord and marking pencil;
8. Hygrometer and level;
9. Notched trowel or short-haired velor roller for applying glue;
10. Mallet or weight rollers for rolling cork slabs ok to the floor;
11. Cutter and drill with bit attachments for forming technological holes or cutouts;
12. Sponge or soft cloth to remove excess glue.

It is recommended to glue cork products without a surface protective layer with water-dispersion adhesive compounds. And tiles with a vinyl or varnish tread layer can be laid using solvent-based compounds.

Manufacturers print on each package of goods basic recommendations on installation. In particular, it is indicated that the packages must be brought into the room 24–48 hours before installation. And all work should be carried out with:

• Absence of drafts, operating heating devices;
• Room temperature – from +18 to +25 °C;
• Relative air humidity should be between 55–65%.

Laying cork flooring is not such a difficult undertaking and can be easily done on your own. It is carried out in 4 stages:

Step 1. Thorough preparation of the base

The beauty and durability of the decorative finishing coating depends on the quality of the preparatory work. Cork tiles are thin and have little rigidity, so any defects in the base will immediately appear on the surface.

The subfloor should be:

• Durable, withstand compression of at least 150 MPa;
• Flat, with a maximum height difference of no more than 2 mm for every 2 meters of surface;
• Solid, without cracks, loose, rotten areas and other similar defects;
• Clean, without traces of glue, grease, soot, soot, bitumen and old coatings;
• Dry. Residual moisture indicators for mineral bases are 0.5–2%, for wood (including plywood and chipboard) – 8–12%.

The best base for cork is considered to be a mineral screed. Leveling the floor is also allowed. But you need to choose moisture-resistant products, preferably with grooved edges. This will prevent the base from swelling under the influence of glue and the formation of seams between the elements of the subfloor. The joints between sheets are usually filled with acrylic (not silicone) sealants. But the best time-tested method is a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue.

To improve the characteristics of the base base, appropriate soil is used. In particular, for strengthening, you can use a strengthening composition or deep penetration. And to level out the absorbency of the floor and enhance adhesion to the coating - adhesive.

After checking the subfloor for evenness and the absence of the slightest defects, you can begin marking. Using a laser plotter or tape measure, mark the center of the room. Parallel and/or perpendicular to the length of the wall, a starting line is drawn on the base, relative to which the tiles will be laid out. If the customer requires the slats to be glued diagonally, then the axes are marked at an angle of 45° to the walls of the room.

Cork products are first laid out in a checkerboard pattern or offset onto a dry surface end-to-end along the reference axis as shown in the figure below. The outer tiles are cut taking into account the temperature gap around the perimeter of 8–10 mm. If necessary, technological holes for communications are cut out in the elements. If you need to form a chamfer, then simply sand the edges with fine-grained sandpaper and remove dust with a damp cloth.

Step 2. Gluing the cork covering

The installation process begins from the center of the room to the walls. The adhesive should be thoroughly mixed and applied to the subfloor and the underside of the tiles. notched trowel or a velor roller. In accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, you need to wait 5–20 minutes for the composition to partially polymerize. Then apply the floor element to the base with slight tension, that is, forming a barely noticeable “wave”, smooth it and roll it with rollers. Excess adhesive mixture that appears must be immediately removed with a damp cloth.

When choosing glue, pay attention to two important parameters. Firstly, solvent-based products are classified as professional and emit a strong chemical odor, so the technician needs a respirator and gloves. And secondly, during the cold season you need to buy only products labeled “frost-resistant”, which can easily withstand repeated freezing and thawing and do not delaminate.

Some adhesive compositions are distinguished by ultra-strong instant fixation, that is, they allow two dissimilar materials to be glued together almost immediately. But this is not very convenient to use, since it will not be possible to make minor adjustments to the floor elements during the installation process. Therefore, we recommend that inexperienced craftsmen use universal non-shrink adhesives.

The technology for working with self-adhesive cork products is much simpler. Remove the protective paper, place the tile on the base and tap it with a mallet. Try to work as accurately and carefully as possible, as fitting can lead to the formation of cracks and even tears.

Step 3. Applying a protective coating

It is recommended to cover the laid cork floor with glossy or matte finishing compounds 12–24 hours after gluing is completed. To do this, clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner or damp soft cloth. Mix the varnish, wax or oil thoroughly and apply with a roller, flexible pad or brush in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 2-3 hours. You can walk on the floor within a day, and you can use it after 3–5 days.

If the varnish or wax is chosen correctly, then your floor will not be afraid of women's heels, animal claws, or falling objects. Therefore, the higher the load, the more resistant the coating should be to abrasion. For example, standard products for home use are not suitable for salons, gyms or hotels. It is necessary to purchase special series of particularly resistant compounds containing polyurethane resins.

Step 4. Final decoration

The easiest stage is fixing various moldings, such as plinths, fillets, corner elements, etc. Their purpose is to ensure a smooth and uniform framing of cork coverings and give a finished look to the room.

Plinth made of cork agglomerate.

The following are used as molded products:

• Flexible plinth glued from agglomerated technical cork up to 1 meter long and 40–60 mm high. The products fit well on both smooth walls, and curved structures - bay windows, columns, etc. There are natural colors, as well as tinted or bleached. To protect against water and impacts, the surface is varnished.
• Semi-rigid planks made of solid agglomerated cork, veneered natural wood. The length of the product does not exceed 1 meter, height – up to 60 mm, thickness – no more than 20 mm. The color range includes from 5 to 12 shades.
• Rigid MDF plinth covered with cork-look imitation film. A good solution for rooms with high ceilings, since the length of the products is 2.5 m, the height can reach 100 mm, and the thickness is 30 mm. As a rule, the choice of colors is not too wide - up to 8 tones.
• Standard PVC plinth with a natural cork surface. Available in the assortment of almost every manufacturer of hard plastic products, including moldings with cable duct.

PVC plinth with imitation cork surface.

The first two types of moldings are fixed using contact adhesives for cork. MDF products can be installed both on “liquid nails” and using traditional self-tapping screws. For PVC skirting boards, it is recommended to use original fasteners or dowel nails.

For clarity, we suggest you look professional video on the correct gluing of cork flooring.

Installation of cork laminate

Laminated parquet, veneered with cork, is laid according to the standard pattern for this type of coating - the “floating” method. You will need the following set of tools and materials:

1. Leveling mixtures or sheets of plywood, OSB, chipboard, gypsum fiber board, etc.;
2. Construction vacuum cleaner;
3. Deep penetration soil;
4. Waterproofing film 0.2 mm thick (for mineral substrates),
5. Cork or any other substrate with a cross section of 2–3 mm;
6. Tape measure, square and marker for marking;
7. Hydraulic level;
8. A jigsaw for cutting planks, as well as a drill with bits for forming holes for pipes;
9. Spacer wedges for forming a temperature gap along the walls;
10. Mallet and tamping block;
11. Metal bracket for fitting planks.

The work is carried out in 4 stages:

Stage 1 – preparation of the base

The base must be level, dry, durable and clean. To do this, you need to carefully inspect the subfloor, check for:

• The presence of surface differences, potholes, and bumps. Acceptable level– no more than 2 mm for every 2 linear meters. All irregularities must be leveled locally using available tools and repair compounds;
• The presence of cracks, loose, exfoliated, damaged areas, which in mandatory eliminated with ready-made or dry mixtures.
• Residual humidity level. A moisture meter will easily cope with this task. Acceptable indicators for mineral screed are 0.5–4%, for organic screed – no more than 12%;
• No dirt or stains of grease, bitumen, old glue or mastic.

Often craftsmen assure customers that to eliminate all shortcomings it is enough to buy a roll substrate or in thicker mats. This is an erroneous statement. Not a single lock will withstand the play created by the soft underlying layer and will simply break under load. Therefore, if there is large quantity floor defects, it is better to form a new one, finishing layer with help liquid mixtures or dry prefabricated screed.

So, the base is leveled, primed and cleaned with a vacuum cleaner from the slightest signs of dust and sand. Now it is recommended to cover it waterproofing film with strips overlapping by 10–15 cm. When working on a prefabricated screed made of plywood or chipboard, a moisture barrier layer is not required.

Next you need to lay down the backing. Although manufacturers claim that it is best to choose a cork underlying layer for a laminate, in fact, absolutely any one will do - from foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, pressed coniferous substrate, etc. It is enough to lay the strips or mats evenly end-to-end and secure them.

Stage 2 – laying the finishing coating

First, calculate the required number of planks and rows. This is necessary in order to correctly position the outer strips, because their width must be at least 5 cm. If necessary, you can trim the strips of the first row a little.

The first lamella should be placed with the ridge against the wall farthest from the door, and spacer wedges should be inserted into the gap. Attach the following strips to the end and secure. After filling one row, a new one is formed, not from a solid floorboard, but from trimming the previous strip at least 30 cm long. It is recommended to lay the slats at an angle of 20–30° and snap them together until a smooth sheet is formed.

The planks of the last row must be cut taking into account the temperature gap, inserted into the opening and tightened with a metal bracket until the locking connections snap into place.

Stage 3 – installation of decorative moldings

At the end of the work, the floor must be vacuumed and skirting boards and thresholds installed. Products made from agglomerate, PVC, MDF or metal are equally suitable for cork laminate. The main thing is that the shades of the selected moldings do not discord with the main coating.

Features of caring for cork floors

The agglomerated array and cork veneer have a dense structure, but the surface is not very resistant to mechanical loads. The first level of protection is various finishing coatings, including varnishes, waxes, oils, vinyl films increased strength. As practice shows, even with them, you can ruin the floor.

• Maintaining stable indoor climate parameters: humidity from 45% to 65% and temperature from +15 to +35 °C;
• Gluing felt and silicone protectors onto furniture legs;
• The presence of rugs at the entrance and under movable elements of furniture (tea tables, chairs, office chairs);
• Protection against contact with rubber products. For example, rugs with a needle-punched base, bicycle or stroller wheels, and the soles of sports shoes are strictly contraindicated;
• Use of mild household chemicals for care, without containing abrasive particles;
• Application for frequent cleaning vacuum cleaner.

The good thing about cork floors is that they can actually be restored. Thus, small dents, holes and similar defects are eliminated by gluing pieces of matching color and texture or by filling them with cork sealant or repair wax.

To eliminate heavy dirt, stains, minor scratches and minor abrasions, cork manufacturers offer a wide range of special household chemicals in the form of concentrates or ready-to-use formulations.

For glued cork materials with a hopelessly damaged varnish layer, an effective renovation method has been developed - re-varnishing. First of all grinder the remnants of the old protective coating are removed. Then the floor is cleaned of dust, primed and varnish is reapplied in 1–3 layers.

Cork floors coated with oil or wax can also be restored. But for this it is better to turn to professionals, since you will need special equipment and special industrial tools.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Today, cork is considered one of the the best materials with a wide range of applications. Laying is a responsible task. If only because the material is by no means cheap, and every damaged part (panel, canvas, etc.) becomes a tangible loss. But with diligence and great care, installation can easily be carried out independently, if you carefully study the process technology and follow the recommendations.

On sale you can find three main forms of manufacturing cork coverings, for which different installation methods are provided:

• Slab covering (without locks). It is produced in the form of squares or rectangular plates in the shape of a board. This type of coating is fixed directly to the base using a special adhesive composition. Installation of slabs - similar to the picture brickwork, that is, tied, with a shift of the next element by half or ⅓ of the length of the part of the previous row.

Self-adhesive cork boards are also available for sale. They are convenient because they can be attached without additional application of glue. However, the surface under them must be perfectly flat, smooth and clean.

• Coverings, the details of which are made by analogy with laminite, that is, having a rigid base and equipped with tongue-and-groove connecting locks. Therefore, this form can be called "". Its installation is carried out in a way called “floating coating”, that is, without fastening to the base or walls. The convenience is that, if necessary, the coating can be disassembled into boards and then used again.

Under cork laminate flooring is required, which can be made from different materials. This flooring is produced in one or two layers, depending on the selected substrate option. The ideal substrate is, of course, a rolled cork.

• The above-mentioned rolled cork “canvas” can be used both as a substrate and as the main floor covering, depending on the quality and thickness of the product. Canvases used as an independent covering are usually attached to the base with glue.

The Portuguese company Corkart began its history in 1997. The manufacturer pays attention to product quality great attention using innovative technologies.

• high quality;
• environmental friendliness;
• wide range of products;
• wear-resistant material;
• good price/quality ratio.

• if left untreated, it will quickly lose its attractive appearance;
• the coating requires careful handling.

Corkart cork floor

Wicanders was founded in 1868 and is the world's leading brand in cork flooring. Wicanders is the undoubted leader among cork flooring manufacturers in Russia.

• high environmental friendliness;
• a wide range of;
• excellent sound insulation;
• retains heat well;
• ergonomics;
• easy installation.

• poor resistance to moisture and mechanical stress;
• high price.

Wicanders cork floor

Сorkstyle

The Swiss manufacturer offers a wide range of cork flooring. Quality product time-tested.

• excellent quality;
• a wide range of;
• increased moisture resistance;
• reinforced locks;
• dense top layer.

• high price.

cork floor Corkstyle

Preparing for installation of cork flooring

Auxiliary materials

To lay cork flooring you will need some auxiliary materials:

• Composition for ideal leveling of the base surface. For any cork flooring, the floors must be completely level.

• If slabs or roll covering, which will be fixed on the base, then a special adhesive composition is purchased.

Construction stores offer many options for cork glue. However, when choosing the best one, you need to carefully study the characteristics on the packaging, since there are options designed for gluing cork coverings only to walls or only to a wooden base.

Glue can be made on different bases. For example, acrylic compositions don't give harsh unpleasant odors and are safe to use, but they are more suitable for covering walls with cork.

Contact adhesive that is stronger in fixation is based on polychloroprene rubber, with active additives and synthetic resins. The composition has a pungent odor, so you should work with it only in a ventilated area, and protect your respiratory tract with a respirator.

• To varnish cork, you must purchase a varnish specifically designed for this material. Cork has an unusual structure, significantly different from other materials, so any varnish will not work for it.

• If you choose cork laminate for installation, then you will definitely have to purchase a backing for it, which will significantly extend its durability. The best option will choose roll version so-called technical cork 2 mm thick. Such a substrate will enhance the heat and sound insulation capabilities of the main coating.

• The primer composition will provide conditions for adhesion between materials. Primer treatment is carried out both before leveling the floor and on a surface already ready for cladding.

Tools for coating installation

To work, naturally, you will need some tools. Many of them are likely to be found in the home workshop.

So, before starting work you should prepare:

• Rollers with different attachments - to level the surface with a self-leveling compound you will need a needle roller, for priming and applying glue - a fur attachment, for varnishing the surface - velor attachments.
• Serrated and smooth spatulas of different widths.
• Rubber hammer - mallet (for some types of coating).
• Measuring and marking tools - tape measure, construction square, metal ruler, pencil, painting cord, etc.
• A sharp knife, construction or stationery.
• Chisel.
• Construction level and rule.
• Hand saw for wood.

Punching hook - it can be difficult to do without it when installing some types of laminate

• Punching hook for tightening interlocking laminate.
• Scissors for cutting the substrate.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Drill with a crown attachment.
• Tray for primer, varnish.
• Container for mixing self-leveling floor solution.

Preparing the base

A properly prepared base for any type of cork flooring is the key to the longevity of the floor.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	After dismantling the old coating and thoroughly cleaning the surface from construction debris and dust, the base should be primed. The soil will bind the smallest particles of cement and sand, and will also provide the necessary adhesion between the base and the self-leveling composition of the self-leveling floor. The primer is applied to the concrete floor twice, the second layer - after the first has completely dried.
	The surface is checked for evenness - for this, a rule and a building level are used. If, according to the rule, a gap is formed that is wider than 2 mm per linear meter, then the floors will have to be leveled. Otherwise, the laminate will sag and begin to creak, or a gap will form between its boards, into which moisture can enter, damaging the coating. If you are going to install cork slabs with glue, then in the place of a strong depression in the base, the material will have to increased load, leading to rapid wear, or the panel (canvas) here will simply peel off from the surface. However, smooth unevenness is acceptable for a rolled cork.
	If a surface flaw is discovered, it can be corrected using a self-leveling compound that will fill the indentations and make the base smooth and perfectly horizontal. The solution is prepared according to the recommendations located on the packaging - it should have a fairly liquid consistency. Then the composition is poured onto the floor in puddles and evenly distributed over the entire surface using needle roller. The drying time for all solutions is different; the manufacturer also indicates it on the packaging. The leveled and well-dried floor, which has gained strength, should be primed again before further laying of the cork.
	Another option for leveling the floor could be plywood flooring. This method is suitable if the cork coating will be used to finish a wooden floor or concrete base needs to be made warmer. If this alignment method is chosen, you will have to purchase cork covering, made in the form of laminate. This is due to the fact that it has a rigid base. Tiles can quickly become damaged at the joints. plywood sheets, between which, like it or not, you have to leave deformation gaps.
	If the tiles will be fixed with glue, and the walls of the room have protrusions, then laying the material should begin from the protruding part of the walls, as if dividing the room into two zones. To ensure that the first row of tiles lays evenly, it is recommended to take measurements and mark an even line on the floor using a painter's cord, then “fixing” it with a pencil or marker.

Features of laying cork flooring

Before moving on to the installation steps, there are a few things you need to know: important nuances, which will help you avoid mistakes and install correctly. One of these moments is the preparation of the floor covering.

Preparing cork slabs for installation

Any of the selected cork coverings must be adapted to the room in which it will be installed. Therefore, after delivery, it must be brought into the room, all film packaging must be opened and left in the room for at least a day. The deadline should be clarified - it should be indicated on the packaging and may differ for certain slabs. In some cases, adaptation even requires a minimum of 55 hours. The room temperature should vary in the range of +19 ÷30 degrees, humidity should not exceed 40%.

During the acclimatization period, in order not to waste time, it makes sense to start sorting the tiles. Due to the fact that the coating is made from natural material, some of its parts may have defects, and they are especially common in slabs that are not equipped with locks. To mark flaws, you can use masking tape, which is glued to the damaged areas. As a result of sorting, you should get at least three groups of slabs:

• High-quality slabs, that is, without defects - this category should be the most numerous.
• Slabs with minor flaws - these may be dents on the surface, small crumbles at the corners.
• Elements with significant defects - through potholes, fractures, foreign inclusions, and in the case of laminate - peeling of the top layer.

Slabs from the second group are suitable for laying in areas where they will be less noticeable, for example, under furniture or along the edges, which will be hidden under the baseboard.

Slabs included in the third category can be used for cutting into narrower and smaller elements for inserts along the edges of the coating.

In addition to the already mentioned defects on tiles without locks, one of the edges is sometimes cut off so that when laid into a solid coating, the base can “shine through.” Such parts should also be mounted along the walls, so that the hewn edge goes under the baseboard.

The tiles may even vary slightly in thickness - each one must also be checked according to this criterion. If several slabs are thinner than most of the parts, then they should be left for installation along the walls, where differences will be less noticeable. To achieve an ideal seam between thin and thicker tiles, excess thickness must be removed from the underside of the latter from the joining edge with sandpaper.

Work on laying cork in different ways - step by step

As mentioned above, there are two ways to install cork coverings - a locking version in a “floating” floor, and an adhesive version, when slabs or sheets are glued to the base. In this section, both installation options will be discussed step by step, which will allow you to choose the one that seems more accessible to implement.

Installation of cork laminate

Laying this material is carried out in the same way regular laminate. The calculation of its quantity depends on the chosen installation method; if it is carried out traditionally, that is, along one of the walls, then an additional 7–10% should be added to the area of ​​the room. If diagonal masonry is chosen, then the supply of material should be 10–15% of the total area.

Fastening the laminate with glue, nails or screws is completely out of the question. The coating must be “floating”, otherwise it may become deformed when the temperature or humidity in the room changes.

Instructions with explanations are given in the table:

Illustration
	First of all, a plastic film is laid on the leveled and cleaned base. high density(≥150 µm). If you have to lay several strips, they overlap at the edges by 150÷200 mm and are fastened together with plumbing tape, which will ensure the tightness of the layer. The backing sheets are rolled out on top of the polyethylene, and it is better if it is a technical plug specifically designed for such a purpose. The cork sheet is laid end-to-end. Thin substrate sheets are overlapped by the same 150÷200 mm. Most manufacturers apply overlap markings to the material to simplify installation.
	Laying laminate boards starts from the corner of the room. The first board is laid against the wall with the side on which the ridge is located (if it did not have to be cut), with the sides with the grooves facing outward.
	The board must be positioned with a deformation gap from the wall, temporarily installing wedges. The thickness of the wedges should be 8÷10 mm. This gap will compensate for temperature and humidity expansion of the coating.
	After this, the next board is laid, the ridge on its end side is temporarily joined to the groove in the end of the previous element as shown in the illustration.
	An important point is the final connection of the ends of the two boards. To do this, the second board is raised at approximately an angle of 30 degrees, while the ridge is pushed into the groove. The board is then lowered onto the base. Thus, the lock snaps into place. The first row of coating is installed according to this principle.
	At the end you usually need to install part of the board. To mark, the whole part is turned over with the wrong side up, applied to the place of future installation, where it is marked on it required length taking into account the installation between it and the wedge wall. Then a cut is made along the line, the board is turned over and joined to the previous part of the coating.
	The second part of the sawn board is very often simply laid at the beginning of the second row (if the length allows, ensuring a minimum spacing of transverse seams - 300÷400 mm). The initial board of the row does not engage with the first row yet. – only touching with locking parts.
	Stacked, with complete assembly at the ends, the entire second row. When the second row is laid out, it should be lifted completely, slide the ridge into the groove of the first row and lower it onto the base, thereby clicking the lock.
	All subsequent rows are installed using the same principle.
	In almost every room you can find vertical heating risers In order for the coating to look neat in this place, you should measure from the wall to the most protruding point of the pipe.
	Next, mark the location of the holes for the pipes and the cutting line for this fragment of the board. The lines may be arbitrary, but it seems quite convenient option, shown in the illustration.
	Holes for passing pipes are drilled using a core drill of the required diameter, which should be 10–15 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes.
	After drilling the holes, cuts are made that will separate the designated fragment from the board. Next, the sawn fragment is laid against the wall behind the pipes, and the main board is laid in front of the pipes.
	The two parts of the board must be carefully glued together with transparent glue. Their joints should be practically invisible - the structure of the cork becomes an involuntary assistant in this matter.
	To prevent dust from collecting in the gap around the pipes, decorative plugs are installed on the holes.
	Another problematic area for installation is the framing. door frame. There are two ways to do this. The first of them is to mark the boards adjacent to the vertical drains of the box and cut out the excess areas. That is, the holes in the board will frame the protruding parts of the door frame, and the gaps between these parts are filled with silicone sealant.
	Another option is to saw down the wooden posts protruding from the wall that frame the doorway. The width of the selected gap should exceed the thickness of the laminate by approximately 3 mm.
	To install a board in this gap, from the locks of the already laid mounted boards with which this part of the covering will be joined, you need to cut off the protrusion of the groove with a chisel so that the ridge can freely fit into the groove.
	And so that the board does not move due to the lack of a normal lock, its ends are coated with glue.
	Next, the board is pushed into the slots of the protruding pillars of the door frame, and then attracted to the general covering using a hammer.

After the glue in the joints has dried, you can install the baseboard, which will press the laminate to the base. It is important that the plinth is attached exclusively to the wall, and never to the floor.

Installation of cork slabs with glue

The adhesive laying method is fundamentally different from installing a “floating” floor. However, surface preparation is carried out in a similar way.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	With this installation, the room should be divided into two or four parts with even lines. So that the laying of tiles begins from the line that divides the room along its length. The tiles are laid with the seams shifted or, as this method is otherwise called, in a running start. If, as shown in the diagram, the room has different widths and is divided by a protrusion, then the line for starting the masonry is best drawn from it.
	Preliminary fitting of the slabs is carried out, selecting those that will be glued first. Next, on the surface a certain area Apply an adhesive composition to the floor near the marking lines with a roller.
	The next step is to apply a layer of glue to the back side of the tile using a roller with a velor attachment. The tile with the applied glue is left for 20-30 minutes - you can clarify this period in the instructions, since each type of glue has its own “viability” period.
	Next, the tile is glued to the base along the line marked on it. You can start gluing the material either from the wall or from the middle of the room. The main thing is to adhere to the intended scheme and markings. The glued tiles should be rolled with a rubber roller or tapped with a rubber hammer. The material can be slightly adjusted, but it will no longer be possible to dismantle it, since the cork may simply tear.
	It is very important not to stain the front side of the glued tiles with the adhesive composition, since during subsequent varnishing of the floor it may appear as white spots. If glue does get onto the coating, it should be removed immediately using a solvent suitable for the selected adhesive. The installation of tiles continues according to the “brickwork” principle, with offset. The displacement step is chosen to be the same for the entire room. This is usually ⅓ or ½ the length of the tile.
	If, when laying a row, the last tile has to be cut, then the remainder of it can be used at the beginning of the next row. At the same time, we must not forget about the gap that must be left between the wall and the covering; in this case it should be at least 5 mm.
	To cut narrow strips when completing installation on a site, the tile is applied to the future location and its width is determined on site, taking into account the gap. The cutting of the slabs is carried out on a rigid base with a sharp knife.
	Having finished installing the covering of one part of the room, cover the next part in the same way.
	Upon completion of the work, while the glue has not yet completely dried, the entire coating must be rolled with a heavy rubber roller. It will firmly press the tile and squeeze out the remaining air.
	When the glue has dried, the coating can be prepared for application of varnish. This process involves thoroughly cleaning the floor from debris and fine dust.
	The varnish is applied using a velor roller in several stages, usually three or four layers. Each layer must dry thoroughly before applying the next one.
	When the coating is finished, you can proceed to installing the skirting boards. In this example, they are attached to the wall using special brackets. The brackets are mounted in increments of 250÷500 mm.
	The best option for cork covering is a special, almost flat plinth. The cork is glued to it after its installation using double-sided tape (or self-adhesive material is purchased for this purpose).
	If you have the opportunity and desire, you can purchase a ready-made, already varnished cork plinth. It is glued to the wall, and the joints between the individual baseboard strips are also glued and sealed with transparent silicone.

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Having understood the nuances of laying different types of cork, following the installation instructions, as well as the recommendations of the manufacturers of the materials used, you can try to do the work yourself. If you are not sure about own strength, then it is better to invite for laying material experienced craftsman, which has earned good reviews.

For those who are fired up with an idea self-installation cork floor - a video about the work of a craftsman laying flooring produced by the famous Portuguese company “Wicanders”.

Prices for popular types of cork floors

cork floors

Video: Example of laying a cork floor with glue