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At home ancient Rus' already in the 10th century they used those made using cooperage technique mugs, jugs, glasses and bowls. Such jugs and jugs are still made almost unchanged in our time. Jugs for kvass, honey and beer are essentially large mugs that could hold about a liter of drink. They usually had spouts and hinged lids. From large jugs that did not have spouts, drinks were scooped out with special wooden scoops. The word jug is much ancient words mug. If the jug is necessarily a wooden cooper's vessel, then the mug can be metal, clay, etc. The exception is measuring mugs that have a sufficiently large capacity. Modern measuring cups have a capacity of 1 liter. There are 10 - 12 mugs per bucket.

Nowadays, glued mugs are also made, which at first glance are no different from cooper's mugs. They are made of individual rivets and secured with hoops. However, this is just an imitation. The frame of the mug is turned into lathe.

For making wooden mugs A massive block is glued together from triangular wooden prisms. After the glue has dried, a hollow mug frame is turned out of it on a lathe along with a groove for the bottom, which is inserted onto the glue. After grinding, each of the prisms takes on the shape of a cooper's stave. Metal or wooden hoops and with the help of round insert tenons (dowels) a shaped handle with or without a shaped cover is attached.

This mug is similar to a cooper's mug, but it cannot be used for water and drinks, as the glue may melt from moisture. Cooperage utensils are not only completely harmless, but also help drinks acquire special properties that improve their quality.

For making mugs, jugs and other cooperage vessels use wood ash, oak, linden, birch, alder, aspen, maple and juniper. Dishes made from juniper are not only beautiful, but also useful. Its aroma is reminiscent of allspice. The aroma is so persistent that it lasts for many years. It is also absorbed by drinks poured into juniper dishes. By moistening the wood, the aroma intensifies. It seems that it comes not from the mugs, but from the drinks themselves - kvass, beer, etc.

For staves of juniper vessels, dried juniper trunks are prepared. Juniper is a very light-loving plant. It does not like darkness, so finding its dead wood in the forest is not so difficult. Juniper trunks are thin and may not split as needed, but the wood can be processed well with a knife, chisels, planers, chisels and other tools. To save wood, juniper staves in the frame of the mug can be alternated with linden, alder or aspen.

The best milk mugs are made from wood cedar and spruce, as it poorly absorbs liquid. Special substances contained in cedar wood contribute to the good preservation of dairy products.

For jugs, mugs, cones and other cooperage vessels, the frames are made in the same way as for any cooperage utensils shaped like a truncated cone. The proportions, sizes, shape of handles and lids will be individual.

For decorative vessels, the handle can have the most unusual shape. For example, a handle decorated with saw-cut carvings gives an elegant look to a jug, mug or bowl beautiful view. Such dishes can decorate the interior of any kitchen.

For manufacturing krzhek with a hinged lid, in the upper part of the handle, as well as in the ears of the lid, a through coaxial hole is drilled. The diameter of the hole in the handle should be 1 - 1.5 mm smaller than in the ears of the lid. Then a round rod, carved from hard wood, when connecting the handle to the lid, will hold firmly in the ears of the lid, but rotate freely in the hole of the handle.

The handle is attached to the frame using sockets cut into the riveting and secured on top with hoops. If the rivets are thin, then instead of this method of fastening, another is used, in which the handle is cut out of a whole piece of wood along with the rivet. After assembly, the frame seems to organically connect with it. The drain spout for the jug and cone is also cut out together with the riveting from one piece of wood.

For making lagoon– original cooperage utensils, in addition to the usual rivets, two special rivets are needed. The body of the product tapers upward and has the shape of a truncated cone.

One of the rivets is cut out together with the side handle, and the other is cut out with an eye protruding above the frame. A tubular spout is attached to the second rive at an angle of 45 degrees. This stave can also be cut from a single blank, which is a section of the trunk with a knot of suitable sizes.

If the spout is made separately from the rivet, it can be turned on a lathe or cut with a knife from round timber. To do this, a through longitudinal hole is drilled in a round piece clamped in a vice. First they drill from one end, and then from the other. The finished wooden tube is trimmed and trimmed with a knife to give it a cone shape. Then a hole is cut in the rivet into which the spout is inserted.

It is best to cut the lid for the lagoon from a whole wide board. But it can also be made from 2 - 3 planks connected to each other with dowels. On one side, the lid is connected on a hinge or swivel to a side handle, and on the other, with a small lid covering the spout. A hole is drilled in the lid into which the eye of the protruding rivet should fit. To pour a drink into a vessel, remove the large lid; to pour it, remove the small lid.

The original cooperage vessel, which is called a lagoon, uses parts from dissimilar cooperage vessels. The long tubular spout was borrowed from an ancient 13th-century milk milk, the handle-bracket is the same as that of a birch bark tub, the side handle is like that of a jug, and the rivet with an eye is like that of a bucket or tub. By closing the lid with a latch, the lagoons can be lifted using the handle-bracket and also, if necessary, carried.

Thanks to the long spout that is narrowed towards the end, the contents of the lagoon can be poured into dishes with a narrow neck and into small dishes. The presence of two handles (side and top) makes pouring drinks easier. The vessel is lifted by the top handle and tilted forward by the side handle. Four rectangular holes are cut into the handle. The lower holes are used to secure the handle to the lid. One of them should be slightly smaller than the other. To ensure that the handle rests against the lid and does not fall through, small shoulders are cut out from both ends. The ends of the handle are inserted into the sockets of the lid and secured from below with a birch wedge, which is driven into the holes located below.

The edges of the other two rectangular holes in the handle, located above, should be level with the surface of the lid. A latch cut from a birch block is inserted into these holes. One end of the latch should fit into the eye of the rivet protruding above the frame. If the latch is pulled out of the eye, it will immediately open. To make it convenient to move the latch with your fingers, a semicircular cutout is made in its block.

Lagoons are usually made from spruce or fir. The wood of these trees light and is easy to process. The finished dishes were painted oil paints. Sometimes the hoops were not painted, but covered with drying oil. The slightly golden wood of the hoops stood out beautifully against the multi-colored background.

The vessel will be very elegant if you decorate it with carvings or burn drawings on it. Wood can also be processed with a blowtorch or burner, etc.

Project: August 2004

This is one of the very first attempts to openly show the manufacturing technology of one of their products online. This had never happened in practice before. Memories of the events of that time today bring a smile. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera - it’s hard to imagine then, but with a computer and Internet access - it’s completely nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is able to share their “secrets” and best practices, both then and today.

Since then, I have acquired a lot of different modern equipment and developed many new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look a little different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the descriptions of many sites...

Well, the story itself began with one order. The then still young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays in which customers would be presented with four different varieties beer. The variety you liked should be served in wooden beer mug. That's when I developed the mug together with wooden tray. Wooden mugs were made in small quantities, and the tray remained in sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).

Below, as promised - original description from the old site:

“It all started with a conversation about wine oak barrels and so on. This gave me the idea to do oak beer mug. I had never encountered making mugs before, so I decided to make them using my own technology. After looking through a dozen websites about beer, I made a discovery for myself: for 50 ml of vodka, a glass with a capacity of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. That's why beer mug should also be the case for foam. The beer fills about 3/4 of the mug. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.

So, let's get down to business!

I don’t know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150x60x15mm and one 135x70x25mm for the handle. It is necessary to trim the bars at an angle of 6°, since the mug will have cone shape. Yes, I almost forgot to keep the beer from spilling out, you need to bottom it. The mug also has a two-layer oak bottom. Two blanks 130x130x3mm. The direction of the first texture is located across the texture of the second workpiece. For the mug you will also need a copper strip approximately 900×13×0.7mm.

If you have prepared everything and still have the desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!

The body blank must be shaped into a trapezoid with base dimensions of 59mm and top dimensions of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5° degrees. A special feature is that the ends are processed for a tongue-and-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.

Having previously cut the bottom to the shape of an octagon (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can begin assembling the mug.Once assembled, give the top edge of the mug a thinner shape and round it off. It is also necessary to round the corners at the bottom end of the mug.

Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any form. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. It is necessary to make holes at the ends of the handle for further attachment to the body of the mug.

The next stage of making the mug is attaching the handle to the body. Here we had to use unusual technology. We encircle the mug with copper strips with a printed pattern. We secure the ends of the strips to one of the planes of the mug using screws threaded through oak dowels. This fastening allows you to securely fasten the copper and dowels to the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection of the handle to the body of the mug reliable and invisible.

Want to do original gift for a wedding or birthday? Or a thing that would be pleasant to use and pick up, then we suggest making a wooden mug with your own hands, which will really look unusual; it will definitely be pleasant to drink any drink from such a mug.

What you will need to make a wooden mug:

• Thick tree branch;
• Saw (electric or manual);
• Hammer and chisel;
• Drill;
• Wood glue (PVA);
• Sandpaper;
• Polyurethane varnish.

How to make a wooden mug, step by step instructions:

The first thing you need to do is find a branch suitable for the mug, I often see similar ones when trees are pruned on the street, that’s where I chose required thickness piece of branch. You will also need even thinner branches for the handle.

Trim the branch to the desired mug height. Remove the bark from this section of branch, I used a flat head screwdriver to remove most of the bark.

Now we need to divide the log into four sections, for this I used a chisel and a hammer, using them I carefully split the log.

For each of the 4 parts of the mug, measure 19 mm from the bottom, make a cut in this part but so that the wall thickness remains about 9 mm on the sides. The saw makes a straight cut on a rounded object, so you need to be careful not to cut too far on the sides. Using a chisel, knock out the inner piece of wood from the top, it should break off before the cut, then continue to cut and knock out the excess from the inside of the parts of the mug until you reach the desired thickness of the walls of the mug and so that they are rounded.

By using sandpaper Clean the inside of the mug without touching the side splits where they should stick together.

Now, using wood glue, glue the two parts together using masking tape and leave to dry for a day. Then lubricate the side and bottom walls with glue and now glue everything together, securing it with masking tape, electrical tape or an elastic band.

When gluing, gaps may remain in some places; they can be covered with tyrsa (small wood shavings) mixed in glue. Leave the glue to dry for a day.

After the glue has dried, thoroughly sand everything on all sides; the bottom and top of the wooden mug should be rounded with sandpaper so that there are no sharp edges.

I polished the bottom inside the mug using homemade disk made of wood mounted on a metal rod and on this disk I glued sandpaper.

Let's now get down to creating a handle for our wooden mug. To do this, take sticks, one thicker, the other thinner, remove the bark from them, cut them to required length, you should get two thin sticks and one thick, longer one.

Drill through holes with a drill with a diameter similar to the thinnest sticks in the wall of the mug (in the upper and lower parts of it, one above the other) and in the thick handle, also through and at the same distance, and insert thin sticks into the holes, applying plenty of wood glue to the tips so that there are no gaps in mug.

Remained finishing our wooden mug, I used polyurethane for this (this is a type of synthetic varnish that is used to coat and finish wooden products). Several layers were required to make it completely waterproof.

Because wooden mug was a wedding gift, I printed out a heart template with initials and the wedding date and using a Dremel with an engraving attachment I cut out an engraving along the contours of the template, similar to those what lovers do on tree trunks with a knife. Then I painted black paint These contours were engraved and varnished.

This is what a finished wooden mug made by yourself looks like, I hope you like it as much as I do.

Every true lover of the Russian bathhouse has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the dressing room, and on its lid there is a wooden mug. But even in a city apartment it’s nice to sit and drink cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you understand, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.

Wooden mug

From boards hardwood 30 mm thick, saw 12 boards 220x31 mm ( conifers wood will not work: a drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0 we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that in sections we get a trapezoid as in the figure.

We polish the boards. We stretch two strips of adhesive tape parallel to the table on the table with the adhesive side up and lay the boards crosswise with their narrow edges facing up, placing them next to each other. A canvas is formed.

We coat the touching edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the touching edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (for this you need a cylinder of a suitable diameter).

We tighten it tightly around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.

When the glue is completely dry, sand the outside and inside. Then we tighten them with metal rings.

Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.

We cut out the handle and glue it.

We sand all sharp corners and round them with sandpaper. The wooden mug is ready.

I've been thinking about making some of the lovely hardwood floorboards left over from my uncle's house, it was a shame to see such a great material go to waste. After watching a lot of videos on the Internet about how to make a mug out of wood, I decided to make big mug, but improved the idea a little. And I also had a piece deer antler, and I decided that it would make a good handle for a mug.

This mug is suitable for anything - you can cosplay as a Viking and have it hanging on your belt, you can use it for butterbeer in a Harry Potter role-playing game, or just to impress your friends.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools:

• Circular machine
• Fraser
• Grinding machine
• Hammer

Materials:

• Hardwood Flooring Board
• Wood glue
• Small nails without heads
• Polyurethane
• Lots of rubber bands

Step 2: Cutting the floorboard

Show 3 more images

The floorboard is covered with grooves, so first you need to make a regular rectangular floorboard. The easiest way is to cut off the tenon and groove on circular saw, and then sand it so that there are no burrs left.

After this you have to decide how many edges you want to make. Let's say there are eight edges, we calculate the angle at which we will cut the board.

If you also decide to make an octagonal wooden beer mug, skip this paragraph. If you want to make more or fewer edges, check out the calculation I made. Since there are eight sides, we need to divide 360° (the number of degrees in a circle) by 8, which gives us 45°, then subtract 45° from 180° (the total number of degrees of all angles of the triangle) and divide the difference by 2 and get 67.5 ° (or 22.5° - depending on which side of the board you measure from).

After this we place the board on circular table at an angle of 22.5° (because at an angle of 67.5° the board will be very inconvenient to saw on a machine).

Now you need to decide how tall the cup will be. I think 19 cm - optimal height. We cut eight pieces of board at the desired angle.

Step 3: Making the Bottom

My mug has a recessed bottom, I really like how you can see this recess if you lift the mug. I raised the bottom 19mm from the base, you need to choose which height you like best. Then use a table saw to make a slot on each of the eight pieces that is the same width as the thickness of the bottom you will be making. Slot depth – 6.4 mm.

Place all eight pieces together, right side up, and apply two strips of tape and join the sides together into a ring, making sure the sides fit snugly together. Place the ring on paper and trace the inside with a pencil. Then draw another octagon around the octagon so that there is a distance of 6.4 mm between the sides of the two figures (the depth of the slot in the walls). Trace the outer perimeter on a piece of wood and saw out the bottom of the mug. Make sure that the edges of the bottom fit snugly into the slots on the sides of the mug; the elastic bands will help you assemble all the parts of the mug together.

Step 4: Glue the mug together

You might get a little dirty at this stage. The best way To glue a wooden mug with your own hands is to lay the sides on tape, apply glue between them and on the edge of the bottom. Then slowly twist the sides into a ring, gently tapping the bottom with a hammer so that it fits into the slots. When all sides are closed in a ring, you need to wind the elastic bands on the outside, the more, the better. Carefully remove excess glue that has come out inside and outside with a clean rag.

Step 5: Making the Edge

After the glue has dried, use a sanding machine to lightly sand the edges, walls and bottom edge, and at the same time get rid of possible glue residues. After this, use a milling cone to make a bevel from the outer edge of the walls to the inner ones. Some part of the surface of the walls should remain flat so that the edge of the mug is not sharp. Sand the edges of the bevel so that the transition from the edges of the beer mug to the inside walls is smooth.

The photo shows the mug before sanding the bevel. Also sand the outer edge of the mug to make it easier to drink from.

Step 6: Making a Handle

First, cut off a piece of the deer antler of the required height for the handle of the mug, align the cuts grinding machine. Choose a place where you will attach the handle. To mount the handle, use the remaining trapezoidal pieces of the board from which the mug's edges were sawn off.

Drill a hole on the underside of the trapezoidal blocks to screw the handle to them, countersink these holes. Screw the horn to the blocks, adding a little wood glue between them. Drill small nail holes on the beveled sides of the blocks to fit into the wood of the mug.

Glue the handle on the blocks to the mug and hammer nails into the holes. Using clamps, press the handle to the walls of the mug and wait until the glue dries.

Step 7: Finish Coat

To complete the mug, I suggest covering it good layer epoxy to seal the wood. I didn't have epoxy, so I used polyurethane. First I covered inner surface layer of polyurethane, then soaked a rag in it and applied an additional layer to each internal corner. The layer of polyurethane on the bottom is thicker than on the walls, so the bottom is better sealed.

Then I added a few more thin layers. I coated the outside of the mug with two layers of polyurethane. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. If you have any questions, write in the comments or by email. Good night everybody.

PS. You can burn something on the sides or bottom, I'm waiting for your suggestions.