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One of the popular wall materials used for the construction of private houses is aerated concrete. But despite its fame, very often at the stage of finishing an already built house, fatal mistakes are made, due to which the natural microclimate is disrupted aerated concrete house. And before you start detailed description process of facade treatment, you need to understand why such misconceptions arise, how to avoid them, and what kind of plaster for aerated concrete façade should be.

A little about aerated concrete

To understand finishing issues, let's move a little away from this topic to understand how important it is to do everything correctly and what affects the cladding technology. To do this, you need to plunge into block production technology. And to briefly summarize its description, special additives are introduced into the finished cement-sand mortar, the reaction of which results in the formation of a porous structure. If we look at the body of gas silicate concrete in more detail, we will notice not only microvoids, but also many channels dotting them, forming an “open” cellular structure, which has a lot of positive properties, such as:

• high heat capacity. It is provided not only by the porous body of the blocks, but also by their precise geometry, which allows the use of a minimal joining seam from a special adhesive composition that prevents the formation of cold “bridges”;
• noise insulation;
• not susceptible to various fungal formations;
• the “open” structure of concrete creates a unique atmosphere indoors - it will remain cool in summer, and in cold period warm. But if you break this natural system vapor permeability, for example, by improper plastering of aerated concrete walls, then the house will be stuffy, and condensation will begin to accumulate on the walls, which will lead to the appearance of mold.

But the cellular structure of aerated concrete blocks also has certain disadvantages:

• a high degree of water absorption leads to rapid destruction of walls without the possibility of restoration. Therefore, special attention is paid to waterproofing;
• the structure, consisting of open pores, is very well ventilated, which makes the house quite cold, even despite good system heating;
• heterogeneity of the body of the blocks, even the most high density makes them susceptible to mechanical stress, which is imprinted in the form of large chips and potholes.

But is it necessary to plaster? aerated concrete blocks or is a more thorough lining necessary? Of course, the ventilated facade system is perfect option For decorative protection walls, but if you choose the best way to plaster aerated concrete on the outside and follow the technology, then this finishing method will be no less effective.

When is the best time to plaster gas silicate walls?

Aerated concrete belongs to the family cellular concrete, therefore it has some of its general properties, namely shrinkage. This phenomenon is inevitable, and if finishing is done earlier than six months later, then cracking is inevitable.

But as we remember, aerated concrete does not like water, so immediately after erecting the walls, they need to be treated with a deep penetration primer, which reduces water absorption. To be on the safe side, you can cover the walls with polyethylene.

The rest of the plastering is best done in the summer, but if the planned finishing occurs during a colder period of the year, then it can be carried out when the temperature at night does not drop below 0 0 C.

The quality of an erected aerated concrete structure directly depends on the sequence of finishing the interior and exterior of the building. Let's consider possible ways, analyzing their advantages and disadvantages.

Method 1 - parallel plastering inside and outside the house

The production of such finishing is very convenient from a technical point of view and significantly saves time. But if we consider this method from the other side, it is less preferable, since the quality is lost and the characteristics of the newly built house suffer.

Any technology for plastering aerated concrete walls involves significant evaporation of moisture. Of course, most of it will weather away with the help of natural and artificial ventilation, but the bulk of the moisture will be on the walls. Plastering the outside at the same time will clog it for a certain time, which is undesirable.

Method 2 - when exterior finishing is carried out first

It is more logical to initially finish the walls made of aerated concrete from the outside in order to prevent their destruction under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. But this is not entirely true; if you do this, the vapors will be directed inward, which is extremely undesirable.

But even primed walls that have overwintered will easily give up moisture and all the vapors in the spring, without destroying the structure. But if a house is built near a body of water, then priorities change, and under such circumstances, you first need to protect the walls from the street from exposure to abundant moisture.

Method 3 - when interior finishing is done first

Of the proposed options, this is the best, because the volume of moisture formed during finishing will freely come out through the unclogged pores of aerated concrete. After the plaster has completely dried, you can safely begin cladding the facade.

Treating the walls with a deep primer using this finishing method will not interfere with the removal of excess moisture.

Which mixture is preferable as facade plaster?

The building materials market is abundant huge assortment plaster mixtures intended directly for processing aerated concrete. If you believe the manufacturers, then they are all the best in their field. But this is far from true. The characteristics of the main groups of plaster compositions summarized in the table will help you decide.

All vapor-permeable plaster, except mineral, are available in the form ready mixture. In this regard, when studying the characteristics of various types, pay attention to the setting time. The longer it is, the easier it will be for beginners to apply the mixture.

But still, preparing a regular cement plaster composition is much more profitable with economic point vision. Therefore, all inexperienced builders are tormented by the question: “is it possible to plaster aerated concrete with cement mortar?” The answer is clear - no, for the following reasons:

• low adhesion to gas silicate surface;
• high humidity, which is detrimental to such cellular walls;
• low coefficient of vapor permeability, which will not allow moisture to escape.

Some craftsmen even manage to mix concrete mortar with the plaster mixture in pursuit of profit. But instead they get a bunch of problems and the need for big ones Money to correct the consequences.

Independent finishing of the facade with plaster

There is nothing tricky about how to plaster aerated concrete as competently as possible. Then it's a matter of technology. Plastering can be carried out using several technologies:

• thin layer;
• thick layer.

There is no particular difference between them; the choice is yours, depending on which method will be more convenient for applying the plaster.

Preparation

In both cases, before finishing, you need to prepare the base.

Stage 1. The walls are cleaned from dirt with a stiff brush.

Stage 2. Defects in masonry joints are eliminated with an adhesive composition.

Stage 3. If there are potholes in the blocks, they also need to be “patched” with the same masonry adhesive or polyurethane foam.

Stage 4. Beacons are mounted on the nails - profiles along which the alignment will take place.

Stage 5. The base of the walls is primed with a hydrophobic composition with a surface 2–3 mm thick.

Stage 6. After it has dried, a composition for 5 mm reinforced fabric is applied.

Stage 7. A reinforcing mesh (fiberglass or metal) is attached to the walls with an overlap of 5 cm. It is better to do this with mortar rather than with self-tapping screws. Since in the first case, the mesh will become one with the wall and, accordingly, will “sit” together with the aerated concrete, preventing the appearance of small cracks in the plaster layer. Using the same principle, they are installed and secured plastic corners. Only after the reinforcing plaster has dried can you continue.

Thick-layer surface plaster

When plastering using this technology, it means applying one layer sufficient to perfectly level the wall - at least 10 mm.

Stage 1. Dilute the plaster mixture in large quantities.

Stage 2. The composition is thrown onto the walls.

Stage 3. The rule is to level the plaster along the beacons.

Stage 4. After plastering the entire surface of the walls, wait until it is completely dry and only then can you paint if desired.

Thin layer surface plaster

Plastering walls using multilayer technology is also not difficult and is more suitable for beginners.

Stage 1. The first layer is applied 3-4 mm over aerated concrete. Only after it has completely dried can you continue.

Stage 2. The applied plaster is considered leveling, so special attention must be paid to evenness. Again we wait for complete drying - about 3-4 days.

Stage 3. The final step is to cover the finishing surface, which can later be rubbed down if necessary.

Stage 4. After the previous application has dried, the walls can be painted.

To increase the service life of the plaster, you need to treat it with a water-repellent solution. It will extend the life of the plastered surface almost twice. The use of such compositions is especially important in areas with high humidity.

As you can see, plastering walls yourself is not that difficult. In the first 10 m2 you will develop your own style of application, after which the process will go much faster.

But it differs from them in the composition of the air bubbles inside.

Aerated concrete blocks are made from cement with a mass fraction of at least 50%.

Aerated concrete walls require external and internal finishing due to porosity and high level absorption of moisture.

Features of aerated concrete

This building material has a cellular structure, which gives it special properties:

• good thermal insulation - the characteristics of aerated concrete are comparable to wood;
• low mechanical stability, which leads to the appearance of cracks and chips over time;
• porous material is blown air currents, which is why houses made from it without finishing are considered quite cold;
• unaesthetic appearance;
• high absorbency leads to corrosion of the material in winter, during frosts.

The special structure of aerated concrete blocks requires careful processing finishing materials to improve its quality characteristics. External plastering produced using special solutions that are selected for specific exposure conditions environment. Proper plaster walls made of aerated concrete provides reliable protection of the base and its durability, and also allows you to give a more aesthetic appearance to the room.

How and with what to plaster aerated concrete indoors?

Regardless of the type of plaster you choose, you need to start finishing work indoors. Changing the order and plastering the facade of the building will lead to excess humidity in the room. The fact is that when steam leaves the room, especially in winter, condensation accumulates between the blocks and finishing, creating places with excess moisture. This is the main cause of cracks on the surface and crumbling of the plaster. To avoid such troubles, you should first start plastering the walls made of aerated blocks indoors. Experienced craftsmen There are two types of plastering technology aerated concrete walls in the house:

• ensuring complete vapor barrier;
• maintaining and increasing the vapor permeability of the material.

The main element of plastering aerated concrete using the first technology is polyethylene film. It is fixed between layers of mortar, and the vapor permeability of the walls is reduced several times. Also used for vapor barrier oil paints, which are applied as finishing, and priming the base with special compounds.

Dependence of internal plastering technology on external finishing

For precise definition When approaching interior work, you need to decide on exterior plastering. Plastering aerated concrete walls outside the room affects the method and sequence of actions for finishing the room:

1. When outer wall already has some kind of coating or is insulated with dense and vapor-proof materials, then moisture will accumulate in the walls. In this situation, interior finishing is carried out using materials with low vapor permeability. You also need to take care of reliable system ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate in the corners of the room and on the windows.
2. When a facade made of aerated concrete is not covered with anything, or is treated with porous insulation, such as mineral wool, then its vapor permeability is not impaired. In this case, it is necessary to first carry out work on the interior decoration of the room, and then move on to the exterior.

Preparing the base

The technology for plastering walls made of aerated concrete is practically no different from working with any other surface. First of all, you need to make sure that the walls are smooth, and if they are not, sand them with a plane or aerated concrete float. Many craftsmen skip this stage, but as a result, the costs of plaster, which is also used to smooth out defects, increase. Before applying the primer, aerated concrete walls are wetted with water. For drier rooms it is recommended to choose a universal composition, and for the kitchen and bathroom - primer deep penetration. \

Construction beacons are mounted on the dried surface, which will serve as a guide for successful plastering of the room. After installing the beacons interior plaster walls made of aerated concrete will lie flat, and work will move faster.

The technology for finishing the façade of a building differs slightly from standards. First, the walls are cleaned of dust and leveled. The cracks and cracks are filled special glue for aerated concrete. After drying, it is necessary to apply a layer of primer for cellular materials. An important stage in the preparatory work for plastering the facades of aerated concrete buildings is reinforcing the surface with a mesh. When choosing the type of reinforcing mesh, you must pay attention to the fact that under the influence of an alkaline environment, the material from which it is made can dissolve. Experts recommend choosing fiberglass types.

Plastering aerated concrete (video)

How to plaster aerated concrete surfaces

In order for the repair of an aerated concrete house to last for many years, it is necessary to competently approach the choice of material for finishing the walls inside and outside. Masters distinguish four options for processing walls made of cellular material:

1. Gypsum plaster.
2. Cement-sand mortar.
3. Facade mixtures.
4. Drywall.

The last option is the so-called dry plaster. What better than drywall or plaster on walls made of aerated concrete is a controversial issue. Plastering the surface is a costly and labor-intensive process. Working with plasterboard takes less time and, as a result, you get smooth walls. Procedure:

• vapor barrier of surfaces using polyethylene film, membrane or glassine;
• installation of lathing for fastening gypsum boards;
• fastening drywall to the frame;
• filling joints between sheets using serpyanka tape.

Any type of paint can be applied to a gas-benton wall leveled in this way. decorative finishing. What plaster is best for plastering aerated concrete walls? To answer this question, it is necessary to know the specifics of solutions and their interaction with the base material.

Disadvantages of different types of plasters

Gypsum plaster

The main advantages of gypsum mortar for treating aerated concrete walls include:

• quick drying;
• high level of adhesion;
• there is no need to apply an additional smooth layer;
• Possibility of leveling the plaster for finishing.

Knauf Rotband, Bonolit and Pobedit Velvet are popular among craftsmen.

Cement-sand plaster

If this option was nevertheless chosen for finishing aerated concrete walls, then there are several ways to improve the composition for better interaction with the base. You can increase adhesion by adding more to the standard mixture recipe. cement mortar(for 100 kg of concrete you will need 8-10 kg of lime). The second option, which is acceptable, but still not recommended by craftsmen, is to add a mixture for treating aerated concrete (1:1 proportion) to the cement-sand plaster. Among the leaders in sales of mixtures of this type are solutions of the Baumit brand and domestic Craps Extra-light.

Facade solutions

This type of mixture, in the case of aerated concrete, is suitable for both interior and exterior use. Basic positive points when working with special plasters for aerated concrete:

• high adhesion rate;
• resistance to deformation and cracking;
• vapor permeability is equal to that of aerated concrete;
• nice view;
• does not require additional finishing work.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls on aerated concrete is demonstrated in the video below. With a competent approach to work and studying materials, even a novice master can cope with plastering a house made of aerated concrete blocks.

Internal and external plaster gas silicate blocks - one of the most common methods of finishing walls from of this material. When carrying out this work, many people forget that they follow a slightly different approach than conventional brick or monolithic concrete surfaces.

Since houses made of aerated concrete easily absorb moisture, they must be plastered.

Plaster errors

For example, a case that needs to be considered to make it clear what the consequences may be if there are errors in finishing walls made of aerated concrete.

For exterior finishing use of ordinary cement-sand mortar simply unacceptable. This is all connected with the same vapor permeability and leads to a violation of the main rule, which states that any multi-layer breathable wall must have a vapor permeability that increases from the inside out from layer to layer or be at least comparable.

The plaster mixture for walls containing is sold in the form of a dry powder with special additives that help meet the following performance characteristics:

If you leave a house made of aerated concrete over the winter without plastering, then next year it will “delight” with a network of cracks.

• vapor permeability (the most important factor);
• water resistance (no less important and protects the blocks from getting wet);
• good frost resistance;
• high adhesion (ability to adhere tightly to blocks);
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• elasticity (prevents the appearance of cracks during precipitation and during the process of expansion and contraction during temperature changes outside);
• heat resistance (increases the ability to withstand the effects of fire, i.e. increases the fire safety of the entire structure).

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. Clean the wall surface from dust, dirt, bitumen stains or old layers of plaster or paint.

The plaster solution for gas silicate blocks must be prepared strictly following the instructions on the packaging. To begin with, the mixture can be poured into a container of sufficient size, observing the proportions in terms of quantity and weight. For 1 kg of mixture, 0.20 liters of water is usually required. It is very important to correctly add the required amount of water, since it is undesirable to dilute plaster mixtures that are too thick, and it is simply inconvenient to use plaster that is too liquid. The ideal consistency mixture should be somewhat like a cream.

You can mix plaster mixtures manually, but it will be more convenient, better and faster if you use a drill with a special attachment.

Step-by-step instruction

Walls made of gas silicate blocks should be plastered in the following sequence:

The finishing of the facade occurs in three stages - priming, plastering and painting.

1. The wall is coated with a special primer, which is made from acrylate siloxane, which has strengthening and hydrophobic properties.
2. A fiberglass mesh is attached to the wall, which is resistant to alkali solutions and has surface density 200 g/m³. It should have a high resistance to tensile loads and should not stretch.
3. Having previously installed the guide beacons, the solution is evenly applied to the wall. This is done using a plastering unit, trowel or ladle. The thickness of the plaster layer should not be more than 1.5 cm. If the plaster mixture is applied in 2 layers, then each layer should be within 7 - 9 mm.
4. The still fresh plaster is leveled using a plaster lath, the excess is removed with a wooden float.
5. After letting the surface dry a little, it is rubbed down.
6. Not earlier than after 48 hours, the walls are covered with specially designed vapor-permeable paints, for example, ATLAS ARKOL S or FASTEL.

All tools must be thoroughly rinsed with water immediately after finishing work, otherwise the remaining plaster will harden and removing it will take a lot of time and effort.

The quality of the plaster layer is checked using a long strip (from floor to ceiling), which is applied in several places both horizontally and vertically. The presence of irregularities and protrusions relative to the plane of the rack is immediately noticeable. The permissible error is 5-7 mm, since it is invisible to the ordinary eye.

In order to increase the service life of the facade, the finishing coating can be additionally treated with a layer of water repellent. But before applying, you need to wait until the house is as dry as possible. That is, this can be done 1 - 1.5 years after the completion of all finishing work (external and internal). The applied layer of water repellent should be as thin as possible.

To summarize, it is clear that plastering aerated concrete is not cheap, as many people think. Saving on materials can lead to disastrous consequences, as was shown in the example at the beginning of the article. Here we can say with confidence: it’s not about bad building materials, but in their incorrect and inappropriate use. And if a decision is made to plaster gas silicate concrete, then it is necessary to do this using only materials suitable for this particular work.

External and internal plastering of walls made of gas silicate blocks has become a widespread type finishing works thanks to wide application this material in the construction of individual and multi-apartment residential buildings. Gas silicate products provide good thermal protection of premises and significantly reduce the load on the foundation, but the technology of plastering requires knowledge of the purpose and behavior of each component involved in this process. Otherwise, the strength of the coating on the plastered wall will be less than expected.

Subtleties and tasks of gas silicate plaster

The task of properly plastering walls is important specifically for gas silicate blocks, because due to their specific structure they have a very high degree of vapor permeability. Saturation of the entire mass of material with water vapor during the season severe frosts will lead to the destruction of its structure by the expansion of ice crystals.

Reduce the intensity of the process to optimal value, which does not pose such a risk, and the brand of plaster used should establish a comfortable balance of humidity and temperature in the house.

As an example, we can give the characteristics of a typical plaster mixture, summarized in the following table:

On the packaging of its products, the manufacturer indicates recommendations for the possibility of application to certain surfaces. Usually on the front side it is indicated in large print whether the composition is intended for plastering.

Fundamental points

In order to perform its function fully, certain requirements must be met. They are associated with the characteristics of the material, which appear even after it is laid in the wall structure.

Depending on the planned completion dates of all construction work The following points are taken into account:

1. Permissible humidity, which is inherent in gas silicate products at the outlet production line, is up to 30%. The drying procedure for the entire block takes at least 1 cycle of operation, so after the first winter the blocks tend to develop large or small cracks. Before finishing work begins, the laid out frame of the building is kept, if possible, for about 1.5 years. If such a period is unacceptable, then it is better to first plaster these walls inside the house so that the moisture has the opportunity to evaporate through the outer area accessible to air movement.
2. The appearance of cracks can also be caused by shrinkage of the foundation. Before plastering the walls, you need to let the house sit for 1 - 2 cycles of freezing and thawing of the soil. Otherwise, the cracks in the plaster will go deep into the base material of the walls and cosmetic rubbing will no longer be enough.
3. Air circulation from the outside is ensured by using the operational capabilities of the ventilated façade of the house. Facing various types panels (stone, wood, siding) or the use of well brickwork, creates conditions for the constant removal of moisture vapor through a specially left air gap.
4. You should not use moisture-proof extruded polystyrene foam as external insulation. It will retain condensation at the border of contact with the masonry.
5. Problems high humidity separate rooms in a residential building, you should not decide only by plastering blocks and selecting a composition with exceptional characteristics. IN further walls this room can be additionally protected with moisture resistant tile adhesive or finishing coatings (tiles, waterproof paint or vinyl wallpaper).

One of the options for the appearance of defects on gas silicate blocks 1-2 years after installation is visible in this photo:

The reason for the destruction is that a material such as aerated concrete needs reliable protection from aggressive influence environment and destructive forces:

• mechanical damage;
• precipitation;
• ultraviolet;
• direct contact with water;
• weathering.

The porous material intensively absorbs water, which, expanding when heated or freezing into ice, breaks the cellular structure.

The means of protection will be waterproofing the base, covering with a layer of plaster (outside and inside the building), and installing external thermal insulation.

The effective operation of gas blocks is largely determined by the consistent and high-quality creation of an internal vapor-tight barrier made of plaster.

Stages of plastering aerated concrete

Plastering walls made of gas silicate blocks should begin by thoroughly impregnating the entire area of ​​the wall with a special primer. Unlike, which has a closed porous structure, during production the material develops open pores, since fine aluminum chips are added to the base solution as an additive. It is the main gas generator when reacting with lime present in the liquid mixture.

The purpose of the primer in this case is to close surface pores, prevent active absorption of moisture from plaster mortar(give it sufficient time to harden evenly), ensure high adhesion for strong adhesion to the surface.

Primer impregnation can be applied generously without gaps over the entire wall using a sprayer or roller, as in this photo:

Attempts to replace special compounds simply sprinkling with water usually gives bad result in terms of the strength of the resulting plaster - the material absorbs moisture very quickly, and if it is soaked in a large amount of water, it will not give it back.

Reinforcement

To prevent subsequent cracking of the plastered surface, to maintain the integrity of the monolithic seamless solid mass - this is the task facing. IN construction mixtures on cement or gypsum base a pronounced alkaline environment, so fiberglass must be resistant to this category of substances.

When laid, gas silicate blocks form a fairly flat plane, which, if necessary, can be easily further leveled with a float with an abrasive attachment, so the sufficient thickness of the plaster mortar layer is from 2 to 7 mm. A flat mesh is placed in it.

On walls of a large area (height), it may be necessary to level the surface with plaster vertically or horizontally. Then it is advisable to choose a more durable coarse mesh, as in this photo:

A flat mesh is pressed onto a thin (1 mm) layer of plaster or glue, which is covered with another layer of plaster mixture. The total thickness of the resulting coating should not exceed 1 cm.

Advice on how to determine the need to reinforce internal plaster walls made of gas silicate blocks is discussed in this video:

Requirements for plaster application technology

External ones begin plastering work on blocks only after complete completion of finishing work on the wall from the inside of the house, completion of wet mortar processes for installing floor screeds, plastering, and puttying work.

All moisture evaporating during these operations comes out not so much through ventilation and other openings (drafts are harmful here), but is actively absorbed by the surrounding materials and then tends out through the pores of the gas silicate walls.

If the walls on the facade of the building are plastered prematurely, then the done external protection in the cold season it will collect at the border of plaster and aerated concrete, freeze and tear off the plaster layer (shooting, peeling).

The decision on how to plaster gas silicate is made taking into account the following factors:

1. Cement-sand mortar is poorly suited for this purpose for the following reasons: poor adhesion due to rapid loss of water (a primer will not always help); a significant reduction in the vapor permeability of aerated concrete (disturbance of the microclimate inside the house). Application for exterior finishing cement-sand mixture, prepared according to the usual recipe, is simply unacceptable. This leads to a violation of the basic rule - vapor permeability multilayer wall should increase from the inner layer to the outer one or be a comparable value.
2. A solution of dry plaster mixture (for gas silicate blocks) must be prepared strictly according to the manufacturer’s instructions indicated on the product packaging. The mixing container is of sufficient size, maintaining the recommended proportions and water temperature with precision. The amount of added water is strictly dosed, since subsequently the aged water will be diluted. allotted time a swollen plaster mixture with an overly thick consistency is undesirable, and a solution that is too thin will drain. It is better to stir evenly until a homogeneous mass is done with an electric drill with a special attachment.
3. In addition to strength, for external plasters you should pay attention to frost resistance and elasticity. Changes in external temperatures create the preconditions for the appearance of cracks in monoliths that are too rigid. We should not forget about the flammability class of the material - fire resistance is important indicator home security.

Approximate consumption necessary materials and approximate prices for determining the budget structure are given in the table:

Approach to plaster gas silicate blocks inside, simpler - for this purpose there is a wide range of gypsum compositions for interior work, which do not need to resist weather conditions.

You should not abandon the procedure of plastering the room from the inside, limiting yourself to making a thin coating of one putty. The effort expended should form a complete wall covering.

Saving through cheap materials or their quantity often leads to bad consequences. We can confidently say that the problem is usually not in poor building materials, but in their improper use. If there is a need to plaster gas silicate blocks of external walls, then this must be done using only materials specially designed for such types of work.

As you know, foam concrete structures are one of the most popular options for constructing houses, bathhouses and other buildings. The material is easy to use, has high performance characteristics and decent thermal insulation. And the most important stage of finishing work for this type of structure is the external and internal plastering of walls made of gas silicate blocks.

What requirements must the finishing meet?

In order for the coating to serve for many years without repair or damage to the structure, it must have the following properties:

• Resistance to mechanical damage, this factor is important both when used externally and internally. This property allows the layer to withstand various deformation influences and remain intact over a long period of time.
• Vapor permeability- a factor whose importance is difficult to overestimate; it allows residual moisture to escape freely, preventing the appearance of condensation inside structures. Thanks to this, the service life of the building is significantly increased and the original properties of all materials are preserved.
• Moisture resistance, if inside the house this property may only be needed in bathrooms, shower rooms and swimming pools, then outside it is strictly necessary. After all, if water gets into the material, then low temperatures freezing will occur, accompanied by expansion of the substance and destruction of the protective layer.

• Preserving the original properties of the material at any temperature is important at, since they are affected by many unfavorable factors, which are especially destructive in the cold season.
• The solution must adhere well to the base - this is the only way to guarantee the highest strength of the coating; in addition, any cavities under the material can cause the material to peel off.
• Elasticity of the material, it must be plastic so that seasonal movements of the structure, shrinkage of the building, and expansion of materials when heated do not cause the formation of cracks on the surface. In addition, flexible mortar is much easier to apply and level.
• Fire resistance of substances included in the composition allows you to ensure the fire safety of the building and its resistance to exposure high temperatures– the higher the fire threshold, the better protected you and your family are.

Main features of the work

Before you start plastering walls made of gas silicate blocks, you should carry out a whole range of preparatory measures. This is due to the specifics of this type of work and the need to comply technological process ().

Preparation of materials and tools

To streamline the preparation process, you should adhere to a certain sequence of actions so as not to forget a single detail:

• First, you should take measurements of the area that will be finished with a solution. Next, you should check the plane of the walls using a plumb line or a level; if there are unevenness, they will need to be leveled, and the mixture consumption will increase significantly. Despite the fact that the price of plaster is low, quite a lot of it is needed, so accurate calculations will save money.
• If thermal insulation is carried out, then the required volume of material should be calculated. Most often, foam plastic or façade is used for this. mineral wool 5 centimeters thick or more. The volume of insulation is measured in cubic meters.

• When using insulation, do not forget about fastening; for this, a special adhesive composition for thermal insulation and special dowels with pressure washers.
• Plaster mesh is another indispensable attribute solid foundation, with its help the surface becomes resistant to cracking. It is best to choose an option with a density of at least 200 g/m2, and you should choose products from trusted manufacturers.

• Plaster beacons for setting the required level future wall and significant simplification of work. The importance of these elements is difficult to overestimate - they are the elements that determine the geometry of the surface.
• Very important element– a solution for priming the surface, since thanks to it the structure of the base is strengthened and absorption is significantly reduced, thanks to which plastering work can be carried out more efficiently.

Advice! It is best to use facade primer both outside and inside the premises; it has higher qualities and will ensure the highest quality of work.

• The rule or, as builders call it, the cutter. With its help, the solution will be pulled along the beacons, and thus the surface will be perfectly leveled. Don't take too much wide options– if you have no experience and you do all the work with your own hands, then a length of 2 meters is quite enough.
• Container for preparing the solution, this can be special option made of plastic or a suitable vessel of sufficient size.
• To prepare the solution, it is better to have a drill with a mixer. The volumes are quite large, and you will get tired very quickly if you carry out this stage with your hands.
• To apply the mortar, a plasterer’s trowel or a special ladle is most often used - they can be found in any store construction tools, and the choice of a specific option depends on what is more convenient for you to work with.
• A grater for leveling the surface and a grater for removing excess mortar from the surface.

If you have all of the above, you can begin work.

Main stage

Let's look at how to properly plaster walls made of gas silicate blocks:

• First of all, the surface is cleaned of all dirt, solution build-up and other stains. Sometimes it may even be necessary to wash the surfaces to remove all the dirt. Work should begin in dry, clear weather with above-zero air temperatures.
• First of all, the surfaces are coated with a primer solution; this step is mandatory, and ignoring it significantly reduces the strength of the surface. The easiest way is to use a brush or a roller with fur bristles. They provide high speed work and high quality coverings.
• After the composition has dried, you can begin to attach the insulation, and if it is not there, reinforcement plaster mesh. It should be taut and fit snugly to the surface. Pay attention to the quality of the product - the material should not stretch, otherwise it will not be possible to ensure the proper level of rigidity.

• A very important stage is the placement of lighthouses along the façade. They are attached using plaster mortar, the easiest way to do this is with laser level, but you can get by with a plumb line or level. First, the two outermost elements are fixed, a cord is pulled between them, and the remaining beacons are placed.

• Further work can be continued after the solution has hardened and the beacons are securely fixed. Remember that a layer of mortar exceeding 15 millimeters is not recommended. In this case, it must be applied in two layers of 7-9 millimeters.
• The first layer is applied with a trowel or ladle, and it doesn’t need to be leveled too much; there will still be a final coating on top, which will make the surface even.
• Remember that the solution must be prepared as required by the instructions; too liquid or too thick a consistency makes it difficult to work with and degrades their quality. Most often, a bag of solution is poured into a container and water is added in a proportion of approximately 1 liter per 5 kilograms.

• The prepared solution is thrown onto the wall in sufficient quantity, after which it is leveled along the beacons using a rule, the excess solution is pulled off and collected back into the container.
• You need to rub the surface with a grater when it has not yet completely hardened. The work is done in a circular motion, excess solution is removed. If the surface is too dry, it can be moistened with a spray bottle.
• And don't forget to check the flatness of the wall using a long wooden slats, and you need to control both vertically and horizontally. If all is well, you need to wait until the solution has completely dried, after which you can begin further work.
• Several options can be used as final finishing: various facade paints, which allow the material to breathe, but at the same time protect it from moisture. Another option is decorative plaster compositions, with which you can give the walls a certain structure. And of course, do not forget about such an option as cladding clinker tiles or other facade materials.

If all technology requirements are met, such a coating can serve you for several decades, but do not forget to periodically update paintwork– this will refresh the appearance of the house and protect the material.

Advice! After one and a half to two years, it is recommended to treat the surface with a water-repellent compound; it will give the surface additional moisture resistance.

Conclusion

As you can see, the work is quite within the capabilities of any person who wants to master the new kind activities. At the same time, significant savings are saved on construction workers’ wages.

The video in this article will help you do the job even better; it clearly explains some of the nuances.